Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!

[shermlock]

Hey folks. I have searched the thread for tips on getting rid of flares after bending acrylic but I only find reference to a 90 router jig. The pictures seem to be deleted. Can somebody tell me how to get rid of the flares or post pics again?
Thanks,
Sherm

 

[Acrylics]

dear all.. i intend to build a 3ft length x 3ft breath x 2ft tall tank. will it be alright if i use 20mm acrylic for the sides and 10/15mm for the base? it will be rested on stylofoam and plywood on top of my DIY stand and strips of 3inches (10/15mm) bracing will be build all around the tank.

Sounds fine

As i am staying in singapore, DIY of tank is not encouraged as it is perceived as dangerous and equipments are really hard to get other than the regular drilling tools but i am really determine to prove my friends wrong! :bum: Went to all the major acrylic supplier and they don't have acrylic's top 3 recommended brand but managed to find a brand called Plexi-glas GS! it is suitable for the tank??

Yes, Plex-Glas GS is the exact same material as Acrylite GP is in the states.

I don't have access to a router so all parts will be cut by my supplier to exact dimension. :worried: Can recommend me the best way to prep the edges? will scraping the edges with the back of a sawblade and using of sandpaper be enough?? or do i have to file them? what extent do i have to do it till??

The sides will be assemble first following the base of the tank. How do i ensure that the sides will be aligned correctly?? As i mentioned b4.. i don't have a router to trim the edges so i wanna ensure that all sides are flushed!

Get a router and learn how to use it first or find a woodworker who will help. You can try "flush-gluing" but be ready for frustration, it's really not that simple to glue pieces perfectly flush. Personally, I'd say don't bother to flush glue it. Do it correctly or don't do it at all. JMO

James

 

[Acrylics]

Hey folks. I have searched the thread for tips on getting rid of flares after bending acrylic but I only find reference to a 90 router jig. The pictures seem to be deleted. Can somebody tell me how to get rid of the flares or post pics again?

You can do it with a vertical jig as previously discussed or on a router table with a fence, which works - just not as well nor as fast as with the vertical jig.

James

 

[shermlock]

You can do it with a vertical jig as previously discussed or on a router table with a fence, which works - just not as well nor as fast as with the vertical jig.

James

Thanks James! I'll search for a vertical jig on the thread. I appreciate the lead.
Thanks,
Scott

 

[shermlock]

I searched the entire thread for the vertical jig but I couldn't find it. Does anybody have it bookmarked or a picture I could see as well as the details about using it to remove flares.

I searched all 3 splits under jig, flares, vertical, and just couldn't locate it. Anything that looks seems to have the pictures as deleted.
Thanks for any help.

 

[Dbroncoboy]

Some Questions..

Some Questions..

I have posted about this issue already and got some good input, just thought I would ask for your help in a few areas.... I knocked a chip out of the bottom front of my 90 gallon acrylic aquarium the other day.




It doesn't leak, there is still at least 1/8th of an inch or more supporting it....

I plan to use Weld On 40 to fill the chip by creating a damn on one side and filling the chip with Weld On.

Here are my questions/concerns:

1. Seeing as there is a seam where I will be filling the chip, will there be a negative effect on the seam? I have heard applying adhesive to an already formed seam can cause problems.

2. Should I sand the area where I will be pooring the weld-on? I read that usually the surfaces should be sanded.

3. I live in AZ and it is HOT right now.... It looks like this might actually help me in terms of annealing and bond strength if I do the process out in the heat, am I correct? Are there any other factors I should worry about with this heat??

4. How in the world will I be able to measure out the ratio of the two part solution to be 95/5. Seems pretty exact to me and sounds a little tough....

Thanks for everyone's time. I really appreciate any help...

 

[Dbroncoboy]

One more thing, I was considering using a square dowel and Weld On 16 to reinforce it from the inside... I have seen it recommended before...Any thoughts on this???

 

[richierich2000]

is it ok to use cast acrylic to make a tank out of? I am looking at a tank that is 36" cube 1" sides and 1.25" top bottom just want to make sure before I buy it! thanks

 

[shermlock]

is it ok to use cast acrylic to make a tank out of? I am looking at a tank that is 36" cube 1" sides and 1.25" top bottom just want to make sure before I buy it! thanks

After reading this entire thread I think I can answer this one: Cast is the only thing to make aquariums out of but it should be one of the big 3 makers. Wait for a conformation from somebody who knows more than me!

 

[AngelAddict]

I'm a complete noon with acrylics and just picked up a 67x19x36 used 3/4" acrylic tank. It has several holes in the bottom that were "professionally" sealed, whatever that means. Looks like they just took a piece of acrylic and welded it over top the hole (like doing so with glass making a gasket with the water pressure). Is there anyway to remove it safely? Also there are two holes on one end that aren't covered, I'd need to make an overflow nearly 36" tall, how would I go about doing so? Order a pre-cut piece(s) and weld them together, What thickness and weld? There's also a break/crack in the euro bracing, what weld is best for that? And is there any scratch removal kits you prefer/suggest? Thanks for your time, I greatly appreciate it!

 

[AngelAddict]

OK, I think Weldon 4 would work best? Is this correct? Would I just cut the piece of acrylic to just barely fit inside the tank and use a syringe to bond it to the tank? Everywhere I've read says to apply pressure, but I have no way of doing this inside the tank. How thick should this divider be? I plan on having almost equal levels of water, should there shouldn't be that much force correct? I see people using 3/16 or smaller, will that work? Ant I can just paint it black with krylon fusion paint to save money right? As far as scratch removers,I'll just get any kit and try it, guess there All the sane. Didn't find much on removing the bond on the piece that sealed the holes, may just have to leave them there.

 

[evoracer]

Quick question about gluing the top panel onto a custom tank-
Would you place the top sheet on the table and put the body of the tank upside-down onto the sheet to bond it, or just set it on top and continue from there? Also, what type of jig do you use to cut the opening? Do you use a router or rough the opening with a jig saw?
Thanks!

 

[shermlock]

I searched the entire thread for the vertical jig but I couldn't find it. Does anybody have it bookmarked or a picture I could see as well as the details about using it to remove flares.

I searched all 3 splits under jig, flares, vertical, and just couldn't locate it. Anything that looks seems to have the pictures as deleted.
Thanks for any help.

After two days of searching, I think this may be what you folks are talking about? If it is, can somebody explain how to use it to get rid of the flares?

 

[kcress]

How, how, HOW, do you unclog a solvent bottle needle?

I've used these things for years without ever having one clog, or even knowing that they can clog. Then I read somewhere that, "they clog easily". The very next time I use mine - CLOG!

Vodo lives..:hmm4:

Not even a number 80 drill fits the needle ID.

I left a bunch in the bottle and left it upside down assuming the solvent would eat its way thru the blockage eventually. No luck.

 

[SunnyWindyClown]

How, how, HOW, do you unclog a solvent bottle needle?

I've used these things for years without ever having one clog, or even knowing that they can clog. Then I read somewhere that, "they clog easily". The very next time I use mine - CLOG!

Vodo lives..:hmm4:

Not even a number 80 drill fits the needle ID.

I left a bunch in the bottle and left it upside down assuming the solvent would eat its way thru the blockage eventually. No luck.

use a lighter to heat it up. be careful

 

[H20ENG]

Shermlock,
Yes thats the idea, to get the router in the air at 90 degrees. You dont need the clamps or blocks. The height will depend on the dimension of your bent piece.

I usually just hit the flare with a sander to knock it down below flush. Otherwise your piece will be riding on the flare when you try to route the opposite side.

So your bent piece rides on edge on the table, and the router bit cleans up the opposite edge. Flip the piece, lower the router 1/16" or so the do it again. Ready for glue.

Remember to feed the work INTO the spinning bit, not WITH the spinning bit!

 

[H20ENG]

kcress, a lighter, more solvent, and a needlenose pulled wire from a wire brush. Just like cleaning a carburetor jet

 

[shermlock]

Shermlock,
Yes thats the idea, to get the router in the air at 90 degrees. You dont need the clamps or blocks. The height will depend on the dimension of your bent piece.

I usually just hit the flare with a sander to knock it down below flush. Otherwise your piece will be riding on the flare when you try to route the opposite side.

So your bent piece rides on edge on the table, and the router bit cleans up the opposite edge. Flip the piece, lower the router 1/16" or so the do it again. Ready for glue.

Remember to feed the work INTO the spinning bit, not WITH the spinning bit!

H20ENG,
First, thank you so much for replying. I have spent over twenty hours researching this topic over the past week... I just couldn't find anything.

If I am understanding you correctly, the router is actually above the entire piece. Looking at the process from the side, and going from the bottom up, you'd have the table, then the piece and then the router (with all the work going on below the router).

Again, thank you so much. It has been and exhausting week.

 

[kcress]

kcress, a lighter, more solvent, and a needlenose pulled wire from a wire brush. Just like cleaning a carburetor jet

Thanks H!

I'll try it.

 

[H20ENG]

Here is a pic of a quick (hack) jig I made. I used it for squaring tubing ends, but could also be used for removing flares.

Notice the superfine height adjustment mechanism- loosen the clamp just a hair and tap it with a mallet