Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
kcress
New member
Paging Dr. Acrylics! Paging Dr. Acrylics!!
Hi James . I have a tank repair issue and would like your opinion.
It would be great if you could check the following thread starting at post 196 (picture sequence starting 2/3 down the page), and see what you think.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1869655&page=8
Thanks much.
Hi James . I have a tank repair issue and would like your opinion.
It would be great if you could check the following thread starting at post 196 (picture sequence starting 2/3 down the page), and see what you think.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1869655&page=8
Thanks much.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1883168
If you wouldn't mind chiming in ! ( It would be appreciated
I will paste it hear too,
Im going out tomorrow to pick up more acrylic for this project. I had planed on using 1/2" acrylic with a 2" Eurobrace. Mainly because the overflow teeth are going to be routed through the back wall. After calling the acrylic shop I was informed that I could get away with 3/8". ( With structure and money to spare ) My main question here, will routing the teeth through the back wall reduce the integrity of the 3/8" to an unsafe degree ?
Dimensions: 48" x 24" x 18" 2-3" Eurobrace depending on materials used. 12" x 12" x 6" overflow boxes. Overflow teeth 2" x 1/4" spaced at 1/4"
In the overflow box there will be a total of 4 1.5" drains, 2 feeding sump, 1 feeding frag, 1 emergency. They will all be hoffer drains.
So the big question, 3/8" or 1/2" 2" Euro or 3"
Thanks !
EDIT: The overflow teeth will be 1" bellow the brace, not flush like my drawing depicts.
If you wouldn't mind chiming in ! ( It would be appreciated
I will paste it hear too,
Im going out tomorrow to pick up more acrylic for this project. I had planed on using 1/2" acrylic with a 2" Eurobrace. Mainly because the overflow teeth are going to be routed through the back wall. After calling the acrylic shop I was informed that I could get away with 3/8". ( With structure and money to spare ) My main question here, will routing the teeth through the back wall reduce the integrity of the 3/8" to an unsafe degree ?
Dimensions: 48" x 24" x 18" 2-3" Eurobrace depending on materials used. 12" x 12" x 6" overflow boxes. Overflow teeth 2" x 1/4" spaced at 1/4"
In the overflow box there will be a total of 4 1.5" drains, 2 feeding sump, 1 feeding frag, 1 emergency. They will all be hoffer drains.
So the big question, 3/8" or 1/2" 2" Euro or 3"
Thanks !
EDIT: The overflow teeth will be 1" bellow the brace, not flush like my drawing depicts.
laverda
Well-known member
I did some searching, but could not find anything about the question I have.
I just received a 48" sump, but it heavily crazed. Apparantly it was left sitting in the sun with viniger in it for a couple week, years ago. Since it will be a sump it is not critical it look perfect. I would like to clean it up some. Is there any way to lessen the effect of the crazing?
I just received a 48" sump, but it heavily crazed. Apparantly it was left sitting in the sun with viniger in it for a couple week, years ago. Since it will be a sump it is not critical it look perfect. I would like to clean it up some. Is there any way to lessen the effect of the crazing?
RokleM
Premium Member
Pictures? Personally I'd be more concerned about the damage and if it's safe to hold water rather than the visual appeal at this point.
HI,
I am planning on building a sump out of acrylic next week and wanted to ask a few questions. I know some of these must have been answered already in this thread but its is so masive it would take days to troll through. So I apoligise in advance for going over old ground.
I am going to set up a large temporay routing table probably 4' by 6' out of mdf.
Questions abouting routing on a table-
When routing in the following set up fence->stock->router blade. Do you feed with the blade rotation or against it? I know with wood you would go against it but that is almost always Stock->blade->fence.
What router bits will I need to work on 1/4 and what size should the bits be?
Other then the router weldon and aplicator squares and tape is there any other tools items that would be good to have on hand?
Also Acrylic did you ever finish the books you were planning at the start of this thread?
Here is a link to the basic plan for the sump I am building. to give an idea of what I am trying to do. Please feel free to comment or make suggestions on the design as well.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1887216
I am planning on building a sump out of acrylic next week and wanted to ask a few questions. I know some of these must have been answered already in this thread but its is so masive it would take days to troll through. So I apoligise in advance for going over old ground.
I am going to set up a large temporay routing table probably 4' by 6' out of mdf.
Questions abouting routing on a table-
When routing in the following set up fence->stock->router blade. Do you feed with the blade rotation or against it? I know with wood you would go against it but that is almost always Stock->blade->fence.
What router bits will I need to work on 1/4 and what size should the bits be?
Other then the router weldon and aplicator squares and tape is there any other tools items that would be good to have on hand?
Also Acrylic did you ever finish the books you were planning at the start of this thread?
Here is a link to the basic plan for the sump I am building. to give an idea of what I am trying to do. Please feel free to comment or make suggestions on the design as well.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1887216
Belgian Anthias
New member
No router
No router
We are building a big aquarium using 35mm ( +-1 1/2") plexiglas GS. We will use acrifix 0190 2 components for glueing the panes. It is adviced to cut the edges in a 10° angel and spacers will not be needed. We will use a carbid tipped sawblade 60 theet to saw the edges.
Is this good enough for glueing with acrifix 0190 or do we have to use a router to finnisch the edges?
No router
We are building a big aquarium using 35mm ( +-1 1/2") plexiglas GS. We will use acrifix 0190 2 components for glueing the panes. It is adviced to cut the edges in a 10° angel and spacers will not be needed. We will use a carbid tipped sawblade 60 theet to saw the edges.
Is this good enough for glueing with acrifix 0190 or do we have to use a router to finnisch the edges?
jameshongth
New member
I go against. Fence on the left, cutter on the right, material in between. If you go "with" the cutter, the cutter will grab the material and take you for a ride
If you're not doing any other profiling, a 1/2" flush trim bit will be all you really need.
Do a search for all threads with "acrylics" as author, there are only a couple. One is called "DIY tank, step by step" or something to this effect, it will take you through the process including everything that I feel is necessary
I didn't start this thread, so wasn't me. I do have two outlines for books though, one professional version, one hobbyist version. Just outlines at this point though. I just haven't decided whether or not it's something I'd want to release before I retire from the business, so has remained low on the priority list
HTH,
James
Poriferan
Member
I am using weldon 40 to apply a patch. I have polished the area to be patched with novus 3 & 2. Is it better to sand the area with 400 or 800 grit before the weldon is applied? If it is sanded will the bond be clear like the polished area?
Thanks for any pointers in using this stuff.
Thanks for any pointers in using this stuff.
For the WO-40 to stick well - it makes no difference if the area is scuffed or clear. BUT, the Novus will leave a residue that must be removed, either with sandpaper/abrasive cloth or a solvent like denatured alcohol.
If done well, the area will have a polished apprearance. You might have some bubbles from the 40, but that goes with the territory of using 40 without a vacuum pump or centrifuge.
HTH,
James
Belgian Anthias
New member
Weldon 40
Weldon 40
Is weldon 40 the same as acrifix 0190?
Weldon 40
Is weldon 40 the same as acrifix 0190?
laverda
Well-known member
Here are 2 photos of the crazing. I don't want it perfect but I would like it a little better if possible. I like to see what is going on in my sump and watch the little critters some times.
TheRealMoondog
New member
New Acrylic Tank Project
New Acrylic Tank Project
I have been reading through this thread, and is seems as if I am in the right place. I have recently purchased and older ******* acrylic tank. this is a 96x18wx24h 180gallon. I could not refuse the price, all things asided, I think the stand was worth it.
This tank is currently holding water in my basement, there is a cut-out that has been made in the euro brace for a HOB filter, there is quite a bit of crazing too.
Is it worth fixing the top and polishing the tank?
The current deflection of the tank being filled is approximately 1/2" to 3/4", the manufacturer says that is within tolerance.
I am new to acrylic tanks, so any information is greatly appreciated.
New Acrylic Tank Project
I have been reading through this thread, and is seems as if I am in the right place. I have recently purchased and older ******* acrylic tank. this is a 96x18wx24h 180gallon. I could not refuse the price, all things asided, I think the stand was worth it.
This tank is currently holding water in my basement, there is a cut-out that has been made in the euro brace for a HOB filter, there is quite a bit of crazing too.
Is it worth fixing the top and polishing the tank?
The current deflection of the tank being filled is approximately 1/2" to 3/4", the manufacturer says that is within tolerance.
I am new to acrylic tanks, so any information is greatly appreciated.
RokleM
Premium Member
That's some serious serious damage. Any clue how that happened? I'm not sure there is any way to fix that and honestly I'd be concerned about how water tight it is (or if it's likely to fail when you least expect it).
laverda
Well-known member
Apparently it was left sitting in the sun with vinegar in it for a couple weeks, years ago. Since it will be a sump it is not critical it look perfect. I would like to clean it up some if possible. It have been in use by another RC member who added the baffles until recently.
noobtothereef
New member
Allright here goes, im building a 700+ gallon tank, its 96x48x35 tall. Material is acrylite gp cell cast 1 1/4" acrylic. I got the material on a killer deal, less than 25% of cost, the bottom and top are 48x96" sheets with saw cut edges that will trimmed off with router after tank is built(they are oversized by about 1/4"). The front back and sides i had a plastic shop cut them to size and route the edges for a perfect fit. I have since sanded the edges with 180 grit sandpaper and a da sander holding it nice and sguare.
here are my questions
1- where the sides sit on top of the bottom panel do i need to sand that area before boding? in 1.25" from the edge around the parameter? along ith the other panels that will be bonded?
2-i will be using weld on #40 using a larger hypo needle to apply, its a large one and holds 100cc/ml , ive allready tried a test to make sure the #40 will flo through it, works like a charm.
3-i will not be annealing the acrylic as i dont have a $100,000 oven to do this, do you see a problem in this?
4- i am building this in my garage and have 2 small chain hoists to lower the panels while bonding, whats the best procedure for this? Should i apply the #40 on one surface to be bonded and then place a couple pins to allow a gap so the panels can soak and then pull the pins and allow the access to squeeze out? Or should i place pins, set panel and try a capilary action with the #40 using thicker pins like .03"-.06"? and then allow to soak and then pull pins ??? ive never used #40 before
5-any tips on routing the edges of the panels? i have a 3/8"x2" router bit for acrylic with nylon bearings, one bearing is 3/8" and the other is 7/16" so i can route it in 2 passes rather than trying to take off alot of material in 1 pass, router is a 3/4 hp model(not a cheapie)
ive built a few acrylic tanks and sumps before so im not that new to acrylic, just never messed with anything thicker than 1/2" and never used anything other than weldon #4 using capilary and #16 for the occasional flaw.
Ive searched all over the net trying to find info on this and there isnt much.........
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here are my questions
1- where the sides sit on top of the bottom panel do i need to sand that area before boding? in 1.25" from the edge around the parameter? along ith the other panels that will be bonded?
2-i will be using weld on #40 using a larger hypo needle to apply, its a large one and holds 100cc/ml , ive allready tried a test to make sure the #40 will flo through it, works like a charm.
3-i will not be annealing the acrylic as i dont have a $100,000 oven to do this, do you see a problem in this?
4- i am building this in my garage and have 2 small chain hoists to lower the panels while bonding, whats the best procedure for this? Should i apply the #40 on one surface to be bonded and then place a couple pins to allow a gap so the panels can soak and then pull the pins and allow the access to squeeze out? Or should i place pins, set panel and try a capilary action with the #40 using thicker pins like .03"-.06"? and then allow to soak and then pull pins ??? ive never used #40 before
5-any tips on routing the edges of the panels? i have a 3/8"x2" router bit for acrylic with nylon bearings, one bearing is 3/8" and the other is 7/16" so i can route it in 2 passes rather than trying to take off alot of material in 1 pass, router is a 3/4 hp model(not a cheapie)
ive built a few acrylic tanks and sumps before so im not that new to acrylic, just never messed with anything thicker than 1/2" and never used anything other than weldon #4 using capilary and #16 for the occasional flaw.
Ive searched all over the net trying to find info on this and there isnt much.........
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