Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!

j5hughes said:
Also if I use weldon 4 will I need to polish the edges? They are factory & it seems like a quick sanding with a block and some fine grit would be sufficient. As far as I can tell they seem to sit square, but I never really tried to check that. I have 1" clear for the base what's a good depth for the tube to recess into?

Thanks again
Click to expand...
Do not polish the edges prior gluing...ever :)
The tube should not need to recess into anything, this can actually weaken the overall strength as the cuts from the end of the cutter tend to have little "micro-pitting" which degrades joint strength.

James
 
Extruded tube

Extruded tube

Do not polish the edges prior gluing...ever
The tube should not need to recess into anything, this can actually weaken the overall strength as the cuts from the end of the cutter tend to have little "micro-pitting" which degrades joint strength.


What about the ends of my extruded tube they are saw cut & not super smooth thats cool to glue like that?
 
j5hughes said:
Do not polish the edges prior gluing...ever
The tube should not need to recess into anything, this can actually weaken the overall strength as the cuts from the end of the cutter tend to have little "micro-pitting" which degrades joint strength.


What about the ends of my extruded tube they are saw cut & not super smooth thats cool to glue like that?
Click to expand...
Tape a sheet of 220/240 sandpaper to a flat table and run the ends on that, in a single direction - do not sand back and forth. Do this until there are no saw marks and the end of the tube is a flat plane. You can glue it then, but I do the same thing with 320 afterwards for a better joint. 220/240 can be a little too course.

HTH,
James
 
Acrylics said:
Tape a sheet of 220/240 sandpaper to a flat table and run the ends on that, in a single direction - do not sand back and forth. Do this until there are no saw marks and the end of the tube is a flat plane. You can glue it then, but I do the same thing with 320 afterwards for a better joint. 220/240 can be a little too course.

HTH,
James
Click to expand...

Thats what I figured. Thank you for the info & quick response.
 
RokleM said:
IMO, slightly recessed and WO40 would work well for that.
Click to expand...

That could be the route I go. I am not sure that my tubes are perfectly square, & I like the idea of using thicker glue with some recess. I once had a skimmer that I broke & I used weld on 16 to glue the drain tube with the attached broken tube back together and have had no problems. I will also sand the edges smooth.
 
troylee- I am looking to build a cover under my LED lights and have the light filter and transfer through the acylic so it is visible on the sides (something simular like the Elos LED's). But I would like the seems be hidden. I do not have much experience working with acrylic but am pretty handy with most everything else, is this something I should look at passing on, pay to have done or just move on to plan B?

Thanks for your time-
 
Im building my 2nd skimmer and want to know what is the best way to get a solid long lasting bond of the tubing to the base? The last one I built was ok but developed leaks at the base after some time. Im using acrifix for the job. Its a syrup like consistency.

Should I bond the edges direct to the base or should i sand the base?

What is the best way to apply the glue?

Another question is should i make a groove in the base plate for the tubing to sit in before gluing it? How do i make the groove?

Sorry for all the questions :)
 
DanMgy said:
troylee- I am looking to build a cover under my LED lights and have the light filter and transfer through the acylic so it is visible on the sides (something simular like the Elos LED's). But I would like the seems be hidden. I do not have much experience working with acrylic but am pretty handy with most everything else, is this something I should look at passing on, pay to have done or just move on to plan B?

Thanks for your time-
Click to expand...

well your prolly gonna use a very thin material im guessing since it's nothing structual... 2 options here....
#1 just get a heat strip and bend a 90* or have someone do it for you...
#2 just use solvents and polish the edges out real nice and clean.... not that big of a deal and if your using 1/8" material or something similiar the joints should come out real clean and almost bubble free....
 
lbaldrey said:
Im building my 2nd skimmer and want to know what is the best way to get a solid long lasting bond of the tubing to the base? The last one I built was ok but developed leaks at the base after some time. Im using acrifix for the job. Its a syrup like consistency.

Should I bond the edges direct to the base or should i sand the base?

What is the best way to apply the glue?

Another question is should i make a groove in the base plate for the tubing to sit in before gluing it? How do i make the groove?

Sorry for all the questions :)
Click to expand...
no sanding needed on the base... i would place a sheet of sandpaper on a flat surface and use it to sand the bottom of the tube or cone ect to get it nice and flat with out saw marks........ i would look into solvent's such as weldon 3 or 4 or mcbond.....use the solvents first then add a bead of acrifix to just seal it up nice.... if you have a nice clean cut the solvents should do the trick by them selves.....
 
Thx Troylee...
I made a bit of a mess with the Acrifix when sealing the funnel around the neck...is there a way to clean it off?
 
Gentlemen, Im in need of some expert opinions on this one. I am soon to build another tank out of 1/2" Acrylite GP and using weld-on 4. The new tank dimenions are 36"LX24"WX20"H, and was wondering if I can get away with just a 3"-4" eurobrace?

I have built a couple of tanks and multiple sumps before using weld-on 4, but for this tank it seems like I am on somewhat of a "fine line". Whats everyones opinion?
Thanks,
Mike
 
lbaldrey said:
Thx Troylee...
I made a bit of a mess with the Acrifix when sealing the funnel around the neck...is there a way to clean it off?
Click to expand...

Sand sand sand, but if it's simply an aesthetic issue, I'd leave it. While you want your work to look good, a little blem on a DIY skimmer wouldn't bother me much :)

James
 
2dawghouse said:
Gentlemen, Im in need of some expert opinions on this one. I am soon to build another tank out of 1/2" Acrylite GP and using weld-on 4. The new tank dimenions are 36"LX24"WX20"H, and was wondering if I can get away with just a 3"-4" eurobrace?

I have built a couple of tanks and multiple sumps before using weld-on 4, but for this tank it seems like I am on somewhat of a "fine line". Whats everyones opinion?
Thanks,
Mike
Click to expand...
3-4" eurbrace on that size and using that material will be just fine - no worries at all :)

HTH,
James
 
what are good sources for acrylic panels?

what are good sources for acrylic panels?

i've been buying my acrylic from tapplastics.com but the larger sheets are expensive. if i wanted some bigger panels to build my own sump, what would be a good place to purchase these?

i live in CT and sometimes work in NYC. local would be best but i can order by mail if cheaper.
 
Laminating

Laminating

We are planning to build a large aquarium. We need 35mm to 40mm panes Perspex GS.
It is a fact that two panes of 20mm are a lot (30%) cheaper as one 40mm pane.
Is there a solution for laminating two 20mm panes 1500mm x 2000mm to have a 40mm pane without optical deflections?
Thanks
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

E
Neptune DDR diy question for AWC
Replies
3
Views
319
Reefing102
Reefing102
AquaticReefTV
DIY Cable management time lapse
Replies
1
Views
650
S|\/|S
S
E
Wave maker recommendations?
Replies
12
Views
600
ExitTrauma
E
Puffpuffdavis
NEED HELP - Acrylic CRAZING FIX.
Replies
1
Views
438
kfisc
kfisc
A
Fleece filter bypass problems (Innovitech X filter)
Replies
1
Views
200
Vinny Kreyling
Vinny Kreyling
Back
Top