deovindice
New member
James, would I just add 2 16ths of an inch to each cut of my panels if im getting the factory to cut them
Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
hvacman250
New member
IDK:rolleye1: That is weird. I have it in writing via a email quote, though. I did verify she quoted me cell cast Acrylite GP.
Polycast was way more expensive.
3/4 sheet 4x8 was $671. 6' x 10' was $1361.86
I'[m only making a sump, so I am using Acrylite GP. James did say it was his #2 choice behind Polycast, and his tutorial shows him using Acrylite GP
deovindice
New member
Thats wrong sorry. If I WANT A 3FT X 4FT X 2FT Tank would this be my cuts.
2 4 1/2 x2 front and back
2 4 1/2 x3 1/4 top and bottom
2 3 x 2 sides
If I were making this tank (36 x 48 x 24" LxWxH) and the 3' pane was the front:
2 pcs) 36 1/4" x 23 1/8" to finish at 36 1/4" x 23" front/back
2 pcs) 47 1/8" x 23 1/8" to finish at 47" x 23" ends
2 pcs) 36 1/4" x 48 1/4" top/bottom
if a 4' pane is the front:
2 pcs) 48 1/4" x 23 1/8" to finish at 48 1/4" x 23" front/back
2 pcs) 35 1/8" x 23 1/8" to finish at 35" x 23" ends
2 pcs) 48 1/4" x 36 1/4" top/bottom
James
Of course
just a pain to do. Mitered corners are not real common, but doable. There are a few obstacles to overcome; squareness is real picky and material thickness variation can be problematic as well as material warpage, but yes - very possible. Usually done with cast joints rather than solvents though. This is where Acrifix 117 (IIRC) comes into play James
deovindice
New member
Thanks james
I have been looking through the posts and see that they are mostly about building acrylic tanks but I was hoping that you might be able to give me some advice about an old acrylic tank. I have a 150 gal. (6ftx2ftx18in wide, 3/8 in thick with a 14in center brace and 3in top braces on each end) that have 1 inch bulkheads in the upper corners of the tank. The tank is up and running but I am adding a new sump and bigger pump and would like to put in 2 1.5 inch bulkheads for returns, about the only thing I am going to be able to do is drain the tank a little over half way and drill it from the inside out since it is so close to the wall. I want to put them towards the middle of the tank. Can I do this or should I just stick with the 1 inch. If I can do it what is the best way to cut it (holesaw?). Thanks for your help.
Hi ghrorick, yeah it can be done, but you have to be *very* careful if drilling a filled tank - even partially filled as uneven cutting on load bearing materials can cause it to crack out. As a generality, I'd say don't do it; partially because of the above but also that your tank is (IMO) underbuilt - should be 1/2" material at a minimum so the tank walls are going to be even more stressed.
If you choose to do it, use a standard bi-metal holesaw available at any big box store and use plenty of water on it to keep it from heating up much. In this case, might even use a powerhead with a hose attached. Obviously a cordless drill would be preferred Back the drill out often to clear chips and do not stop the drill in the kerf - ever. The saw could seize in there or worse - cause you to twist and crack out from the hole.
James
If you choose to do it, use a standard bi-metal holesaw available at any big box store and use plenty of water on it to keep it from heating up much. In this case, might even use a powerhead with a hose attached. Obviously a cordless drill would be preferred
Back the drill out often to clear chips and do not stop the drill in the kerf - ever. The saw could seize in there or worse - cause you to twist and crack out from the hole.James
blackizzz
New member
Of course
James
Could you elaborate that? =P would love to hear more!
Would really like to know about the process of glueing, so you get good joints with 117... I like to know everything!!! =)
You're the BEST!!! Thanks.
Oskar:fun2:
I don't use the 117, it's just similar to Weld-on 40/42 and those really are best learned through experience and not really something that can be "taught" online. If you have the resources, get yourself a small set of it and try it out. More will be learned from that than I could ever put into words here
James
James
deovindice
New member
Iran in to a guy yesterday that said. the edges that you are going to bond together can be flame polished instead of sanding is this true?
deovindice
New member
Thanks . I have never built a tank with acrylic but what he said just didnt sound right
it stresses the hell out of acrylic and will cause crazing when you apply solvent.
James
I honestly wouldn't build it over about 15" in height. I built a 48 x 24 x 15 several years ago, using 3/4" and rimless - it bowed a little more than 1/2" which is far more than I like seeing esp on a rimless tank. You could use 1" and it will hold, but *may* bow more than you really want.
However, if you can allow for a 3" eurobrace, you could use 1/2" and it'll do well. Amazing what that top brace does for ya
James
Dakota Reef
New member
James,
Thanks for the years of advice you've provided on this forum. I've browsed this thread many times over the years and always learn something.
My issue - I learned the hard way that coraline can etch acrylic if its allowed to remain in place for too long. My tank is 54x48x24 and I've got etching on the lower 2 - 6 inches along the bottom of the tank on three sides.
I assume to do this right the tank should be drained. (Is that correct?) The etching is like a haziness that I can't feel with my fingertips. Since it seems fairly shallow but widespread, is this likely something that could be fixed simply with the Novus progression or will I need to start with a wet dry sandpaper?
Also is there a recommended RPM range for a variable speed sander for doing this?
Thanks again for all your help.
Thanks for the years of advice you've provided on this forum. I've browsed this thread many times over the years and always learn something.
My issue - I learned the hard way that coraline can etch acrylic if its allowed to remain in place for too long. My tank is 54x48x24 and I've got etching on the lower 2 - 6 inches along the bottom of the tank on three sides.
I assume to do this right the tank should be drained. (Is that correct?) The etching is like a haziness that I can't feel with my fingertips. Since it seems fairly shallow but widespread, is this likely something that could be fixed simply with the Novus progression or will I need to start with a wet dry sandpaper?
Also is there a recommended RPM range for a variable speed sander for doing this?
Thanks again for all your help.
