Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!

[Floyd R Turbo]

Not if you're laminating formica over the top of the whole thing, you would want it flush. Plus if you slanted the plate you would be limiting your feed direction, and shifting the material w/r to the position of the bit. If you were using a router table to make some wood molding or something, you wouldn't want the material to shift up as you push it along, at least I wouldn't think you would.

 

[TheFishMan65]

Well that all sounds good, but I expect the difference was less than 1/64th of an inch. Just throwing out ideas.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

I follow you I think. The idea being that as you feed the piece to the blade, you don't want it to snag on the edge of the plate, and as it outfeeds, you don't want it to snag on the edge of the table where the plate ends. It might be applicable if the router table plate were visible, hence the adjustment screws on the underside of most router table plates. So if you were making one that way, there would be the reason for needing the leveling screws.

With a fully laminated table, you wouldn't have to worry about that though. That's what I was saying. But good thing to note for someone making a non-laminated table.

 

[peppie]

James, The tank is 32''x24''x22'' tall. I added these corner pieces to all inside corners. Material is 3/4'' Plexiglass-G. I would like to keep the tank rimless. Do I still need to add eruobracing?

Thanks for looking

 

[peterbrescia]

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2026256

Hello there, I am building an acrylic sump, I. Have all the vertical walls assembeld, now I'm ready to assemble the bottom but l'm afraid I won't have enough time to cement all the joints in time before it starts to set. Any suggestions?
Im using 1/2 acrylite and wo#4

 

[Acrylics]

James, The tank is 32''x24''x22'' tall. I added these corner pieces to all inside corners. Material is 3/4'' Plexiglass-G. I would like to keep the tank rimless. Do I still need to add eruobracing?

IMO..absolutely, unless you want it to bow
Corner gussets relieve some strain on the corner joints but don't do anything to alleviate deflection. So IMO, just I said before; a 3" euro-brace and that's it

James

 

[Acrylics]

Hello there, I am building an acrylic sump, I. Have all the vertical walls assembeld, now I'm ready to assemble the bottom but l'm afraid I won't have enough time to cement all the joints in time before it starts to set. Any suggestions?
Im using 1/2 acrylite and wo#4

You have plenty of time IMO use larger wires, twist-ties from Hefty bags work well, or go to the supermarket and pillage some extras from the produce section

James

 

[peppie]

Thanks James. I am not real concerned about the deflection I could live with up to 3/16-1/4''. I intend to cap each corner with another brace that is triangle in shape and will be 3'' long at the right angle side. Thanks again.

 

[2Quills]

Excellent thread here guys, lots of good info, thanks.

Wondering if I could bother one of you experts for a quick question on material thickness for my sump design (well, modified F design). If this question has been posed before then I apologize, I must have missed it.

I'll be going with Acrylite GP. Sump dimensions are 50"L x 18" W x 16" H and a 3" Euro brace with center bracing

Would 1/4" material be pushing it too much or should I just go with 3/8". I'm looking at about a $200 price difference in material. I'd like to do 1/4" to save some cash but will do 3/8" if you guys think It's necissary.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Acrylics]

Excellent thread here guys, lots of good info, thanks.

Wondering if I could bother one of you experts for a quick question on material thickness for my sump design (well, modified F design). If this question has been posed before then I apologize, I must have missed it.

I'll be going with Acrylite GP. Sump dimensions are 50"L x 18" W x 16" H and a 3" Euro brace with center bracing

Would 1/4" material be pushing it too much or should I just go with 3/8". I'm looking at about a $200 price difference in material. I'd like to do 1/4" to save some cash but will do 3/8" if you guys think It's necessary.

thicker would be preferred but not necessary by any means if you do your part well

James

 

[Stumped]

I need some acrylic-related help. If I'm building an acrylic top (to keep fish in) how thick should the acrylic be to stop it from bowing an unreasonable amount. I have some of the super thin extruded stuff around (used for picture frames, etc.), but I know that stuff bows like crazy over water.

Any help would be appreciated. Also worth noting is that I have to use acrylic for this because the tank has probes and other misc. stuff in one corner so I can't use a mesh top. Glass is also out of the question because I don't have the tools to make the design I'd need (holes for probes etc.).

Thanks

 

[Acrylics]

I need some acrylic-related help. If I'm building an acrylic top (to keep fish in) how thick should the acrylic be to stop it from bowing an unreasonable amount. I have some of the super thin extruded stuff around (used for picture frames, etc.), but I know that stuff bows like crazy over water.

Any help would be appreciated. Also worth noting is that I have to use acrylic for this because the tank has probes and other misc. stuff in one corner so I can't use a mesh top. Glass is also out of the question because I don't have the tools to make the design I'd need (holes for probes etc.).

Thanks

IMO don't use acrylic, use a polycarbonate like Lexan. Acrylic will absorb moisture and bow - pretty much regardless of thickness. Polycarbonate won't bow nearly as much as acrylic as it already has lots of moisture in it..

James

 

[qy7400]

Hi Guys,

I want to add sea-swirls to the tank and want to drill the holes in the top. The tanks 96x34x26 all 1", has 3 access holes cut and I'd like to drill the holes in the cross braces. The fittings are where I want to drill and I'm thinking this won't be a problem but before I take drill to tank...

 

[Acrylics]

Hi Guys,

I want to add sea-swirls to the tank and want to drill the holes in the top. The tanks 96x34x26 all 1", has 3 access holes cut and I'd like to drill the holes in the cross braces. The fittings are where I want to drill and I'm thinking this won't be a problem but before I take drill to tank...

Most likely not a problem, but I would urge you to consult with the tank mfr for two reasons: to verify that this won't be a structural issue, and to see if this will void your warranty - being a modification and all.

I don't see it as a structural issue, but whenever you are removing bracing material from a pressure vessel - there is at least "some" concern.

James

 

[qy7400]

Hey James,

Thanks for the reply, I would have called them but I'm the 3rd owner of the tank and best I know is the original owner and builder are in Florida. I'm going to see if i can track the builder before I do anything just in case.

 

[2Quills]

thicker would be preferred but not necessary by any means if you do your part well

James

James, thank you. That's what I was thinking but was just curious. I'll be ordering 3/8" anyways for peace of mind and the fact that I think thicker material looks nicer.

I was going to build the project in my garage like I do with most projects. However I was practicing last weekend welding joints and noticed that the weld-on 4 tends to set pretty fast in the hot/humid weather down here in south texas. Like 10 seconds fast. Also noticed a little bit of crazing. I'm thinking it would be best to solvent weld the material inside the house in a temperature controlled environment. Would you agree?

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Just make sure you ventilate well and wear a mask if you can while applying the solvent (and protective eyewear)

 

[Snootch]

Hey Guys,

I need some acrylic-related help before a make some expensive mistakes. I'm trying to find a place to order my acrylic sheets from. I found a company with reasonable prices but I'm not sure if the acrylic they sell can be used for the sump build. I asked them if it was Polycast, Acrylite GP or Plexiglas-G and this is their response:


The material we sell is Chemcast cast acrylic sheet.
I have sold the Polycast and Plex-G in the past and I think the sheet is as good as either of these.
The are 2 ways acrylic sheet is make, cast and extruded, the Polycast, Acrylite GP and Plexiglass-G are all cell cast sheet, that is why they are the top ones, Plexiglass-G is as good as the others, I don't know why it is last on your list. The Acrylic FF is an extruded sheet.
Let me know if you have any other questions.

Delvie's Plastics Inc.



Also, is 1/4" acrylic enough for this build?

Your help is greatly appreciated,

Thanks

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

I know several that make sumps out of 1/4" extruded day in and day out. Technique is what matters. Don't use Chemcast, if you read back in this thread enough you'll see that it is prone to failing 6 months down the road. It may hold forever, but you just don't know. Acrylite FF is a good extruded and should work fine. Unless James say no. He's the man.

 

[Acrylics]

Hey Guys,

I need some acrylic-related help before a make some expensive mistakes. I'm trying to find a place to order my acrylic sheets from. I found a company with reasonable prices but I'm not sure if the acrylic they sell can be used for the sump build. I asked them if it was Polycast, Acrylite GP or Plexiglas-G and this is their response:


The material we sell is Chemcast cast acrylic sheet.
I have sold the Polycast and Plex-G in the past and I think the sheet is as good as either of these.
The are 2 ways acrylic sheet is make, cast and extruded, the Polycast, Acrylite GP and Plexiglass-G are all cell cast sheet, that is why they are the top ones, Plexiglass-G is as good as the others, I don't know why it is last on your list. The Acrylic FF is an extruded sheet.
Let me know if you have any other questions.

Delvie's Plastics Inc.



Also, is 1/4" acrylic enough for this build?

1/4" should be okay, but would advise a perimeter flange (eurobrace) on there as well.

There are reasons why virtually every tank mfr in the world uses the top 3 and not Chemcast. If it were as simple as cast & extruded, we'd all be using the cheapest cast materials available, but it's not that simple. There are other variations in acrylic mfg such molecular weight, polymerization, etc., that, without sounding snotty, are things a salesman never thinks about since they don't actually build things from the material.

And after my experiences with the Chinese made Acrylite GP, not sure that belongs either simply not the same material as it once was, but JMO

James