Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!

MJB Tanks said:
James,

Bud has asked me to get your input on a tank that I'm currently quoting for a customer. I've done several searches in these threads and found tons of information but I'd like to know you opinion on a setup.

My customer wants a 48x18x10 rimless frag tank. This tank WILL be set up and used 24/7 as a coral display in his home. After finding some of your deflection estimates for similar spans I was thinking 1" sides with maybe 1/2" for the bottom panel. I asked Bud for his opinion and he said I could possibly need more than that and I should chase down your thoughts before I quote.

Thanks for any advice you can offer.
Click to expand...
I'd think 3/4" should be fine for the sides with 1/8" max deflection.. at 60" span x 12" height - deflection is negligible, so I'd think 3/4" should suffice for yours. But 1" won't hurt at all, provides tons of piece of mind and IMO worth the extra $50 or so... :)

James
 
I used weld-on 4 to glue my acrylic together, 1 of my edge got some buble in it. I'm worrying that it might not have a good bond. Can you use Weld-on 16 or silicone to run over the edge to ensure no leak? If yes, which one.
Or what is the best way to ensure the buble edge from leaking.
 
Silicone will NOT bond acrylic so do not use it. It may stick for a while but will eventually lose adhesion.

James can tell you the best method to correct your seams.
 
post pics if you can. Generally speaking, if the joint is bad enough that you're worried about leaking - the joint is not strong enough to hold anyway and should be redone. However, if the affected area is small and you just want to be sure - either glue a gusset in the area, squirt some Weld-on 40 in the area, or I guess 16. 16 is utter garbage and "sealing" is not it's intended purpose, but may do in a pinch. I know lotsa people do it, but that never means it's good ;)

Silicone? don't bother..

James

ETA: keep in mind any of these secondary operations can cause crazing in the area, so be aware and don't overdo it.
 
Thanks Wes & James, I don't really know how to attach the pics. Let me read how to forumn.
Hopefully I can do it with WeldOn40. So I don't have to attached the square rod with weldon 4 to the edge.
 
Here is edge look like. There couple spot are like that. the thickness of the Acrylic is .5".
Can I use Weldon-40 to go over the edge? or I have to use the rod.
 

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James, why do you say WO16 is garbage? I've used it several times and had great results, but your expertise in acrylic makes me wonder now.
 
wbdevers said:
James, why do you say WO16 is garbage? I've used it several times and had great results, but your expertise in acrylic makes me wonder now.
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For me it's pretty simple; there is *nothing* that 16 can do that something else can't do *far* better... whether that something is Weld-on 40/42 or straight solvent.

Does this mean it won't suffice? no, it will be "ok" for a lot of things the home hobbyist may wish to do.

Reinforcing seems? no, not even close compared to WO 40/42
Gluing joints? no, not even close compared to straight solvent or 40/42

For making some little widget stick to another little widget, it's ok, but even with that - there is always something better. Trying to glue an uneven surface? either a) correct the problem so the surface is true and flat, or use 40/42.

In several decades of doing this, I've never once thought "16 is the best solution for this problem.." and I still can't think of anything where 16 is the first choice to solve an issue..

If I need a thickened solvent, I can make my own and control exactly what's in it, but to be honest - this rarely every needs to be done. I can think of doing this just once in the last 20-25 years.

James
 
Hi James I saw your response to using a CNC on edges for welding and you say its almost never smooth enough-what do you suggest I use to cut 3/8 cast acrylic(making a sump) Thanks
 
I have a router and have a double upspiral acrylic bit from HD but when I make the cuts there are waves in the cut acrylic-there small but not smooth to weld. Any ideas?
 
I'm making a unique tank and need to but two pieces together for a flat seam joint. I've got the glueing part down with bubble free seems and a nearly perfect flat sheet but I'm having some issues with sanding down and polishing the excess material that oozes out. I've tried a small sanding block with 500 grit then moving up to 2000 in stages and finishing with a polisher. It's going ok to good but I get some minor distortion around the seam. I'm using a 1" wide sanding block to get just the seam, should I go bigger like a 3" wide area to cut down on distortion? How would you typically go about polishing out a seam like this?

Iammonster I found taking 500 grit wet dry sandpaper to the routered edges with a sanding block helped a lot. Not a lot of sanding just a few swipes like 10 seconds a foot of edge, it won't take out all of the ridges but it will take out the bigger ones without messing up your right angled router cut and greatly reduces the bubbles. Just be real careful to not round the edges. I'm using a 20 year old fixed router mounted to an aftermarket table with a level clamped on as a fence and a basic 5/8" carbide bit. It works for me with stuff I had just lying around.
 
IMAMONSTER said:
I have a router and have a double upspiral acrylic bit from HD but when I make the cuts there are waves in the cut acrylic-there small but not smooth to weld. Any ideas?
Click to expand...


Slow down on your feed rate.
I have used the same bit 1/2'' worked like a dream.

The plunge router will work with a good solid straight edge. The down side is the set up time per cut and making sure you are routing the exact same amount off each cut
 
Epicreefer said:
I'm making a unique tank and need to but two pieces together for a flat seam joint. I've got the glueing part down with bubble free seems and a nearly perfect flat sheet but I'm having some issues with sanding down and polishing the excess material that oozes out. I've tried a small sanding block with 500 grit then moving up to 2000 in stages and finishing with a polisher. It's going ok to good but I get some minor distortion around the seam. I'm using a 1" wide sanding block to get just the seam, should I go bigger like a 3" wide area to cut down on distortion? How would you typically go about polishing out a seam like this?

Iammonster I found taking 500 grit wet dry sandpaper to the routered edges with a sanding block helped a lot. Not a lot of sanding just a few swipes like 10 seconds a foot of edge, it won't take out all of the ridges but it will take out the bigger ones without messing up your right angled router cut and greatly reduces the bubbles. Just be real careful to not round the edges. I'm using a 20 year old fixed router mounted to an aftermarket table with a level clamped on as a fence and a basic 5/8" carbide bit. It works for me with stuff I had just lying around.[/QUOT

Sanding should not have to be done when edge prepping with the router.
You should figure out why the router is not giving you a weld ready seam.

JMO
Click to expand...
 
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