Acrylic hole saw locally?

[NaClH20NMYVEIN]

Is it an urban myth or do they really exist in Phoenix????

 

[Che]

Do you really need a whole saw designed specifically for acrylic?

When I drilled my sump, I used a regular old hole saw. I put masking tape on both sides of where I was drilling and just did it.

I guess if you can find a hole saw with more teeth, it would give you a cleaner cut.

Let us know if you find anything.

Che

 

[KBurn]

What size hole are you going for? I bought a hole saw kit from Harbour freight and it work great on my sump.

 

[KRASHPD]

I have drilled lots of holes in acrylic with a regular drill and hole drill bits from home depot. Pretty easy to do and only takes about 30 seconds. The drill bits go up to around 2" I beleive and are $15 - $20.

 

[NaClH20NMYVEIN]

I have (8) 1" holes, (4) 1.5" holes and (3) 2" holes all in 3/4" acrylic. I was hoping to find something a bit nicer than just a regular old HD hole saw. I guess if that is what everyone uses then it will work.

 

[frontosa_man80]

i know its not in town but here are some.

http://www.sdplastics.com/countersinksholesawotherbits.html


HTH

-jesse

 

[NaClH20NMYVEIN]

Thanks Jesse, If I dont hear of any local I will order there. Thanks

 

[KBurn]

Those step drills do a great job of cleaning up holes, and they act as a counterbore also.

 

[Bigred]

I just bot some regular one at Harbor Freight. 1/2"-4" for like $8.

 

[EllieSuz]

We just used a regular auger bit with no problems. About $5.00 or less at HD.

 

[30reef]

A good bi-metal hole saw, such as a Millwaukee, will cut a nice hole. The best ones use a common quick change arbor and have a replaceable pilot bit. These are a few that I have. They are not cheap though, some were $40 each, but worth every penny. I do not buy cheap tools, I have found that I never do anything just once. I make my living with my tools so I guess that's the difference.

If you're drilling holes in 3/4" material, (especially the bottom of a new multi-thousand dollar tank), I wouldn't skimp on the hole saw. The sharper cutting teeth on a quality bi-metal saw will create less heat while cutting. It would be a good idea to stop every 10 seconds or so and blow the chips out of the groove so they don't bind the saw up. Hole saws don't have any means of transporting chips out of the hole like a drill bit does. Just some advice from the trenches.

 

[Elliott]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13587848#post13587848 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 30reef
A good bi-metal hole saw, such as a Millwaukee, will cut a nice hole. The best ones use a common quick change arbor and have a replaceable pilot bit. These are a few that I have. They are not cheap though, some were $40 each, but worth every penny. I do not buy cheap tools, I have found that I never do anything just once. I make my living with my tools so I guess that's the difference.

If you're drilling holes in 3/4" material, (especially the bottom of a new multi-thousand dollar tank), I wouldn't skimp on the hole saw. The sharper cutting teeth on a quality bi-metal saw will create less heat while cutting. It would be a good idea to stop every 10 seconds or so and blow the chips out of the groove so they don't bind the saw up. Hole saws don't have any means of transporting chips out of the hole like a drill bit does. Just some advice from the trenches.

agree

I used a hand held drill vice to keep the drill from moving. In addition I taped a piece of 1/4" plywood down first and drilled through that to further hold the bit in place. I went really slow and stopped often as the acrylic heated up fast. Here'a a nice chart for the correct hole sizes:

http://www.savko.com/portal/bulkhead.asp

 

[Frank AZ]

I used the used the bimetal hole saws myself - and they do a pretty good job - just take it easy and go slow.