Acrylic Scratch Removal Question

[Itchy Trigger]

So the other day I scratched the hell out of my large acrylic tank. On the outside. I've removed scratches from the INSIDE before, using scratch removal kits, and the result has always been excellent. So I figured this would be easy (albeit time consuming). I pulled out the scratch removal kit, went through the procedure from the 1500 grit all the way to 12,000, then used the Novus 3 and 2 polishes... The big scratch has been removed, but I can still see (at certain angles and in certain light) a very faint criss cross pattern from the perpendicular sanding that was done. And the acrylic simply isn't as crystal clear in this spot (which is about 20" x 16"). Does anyone have any tips on products or methods to get this perfectly clear again?

 

[Jpugh73]

Use a automotive buffer and buff a little more just make sure that you touch the panel in between buffing just take sure you are not getting it to hot. I just. Think that you need to buff a little more and the finer scratches should come out

 

[Itchy Trigger]

Use a automotive buffer and buff a little more just make sure that you touch the panel in between buffing just take sure you are not getting it to hot. I just. Think that you need to buff a little more and the finer scratches should come out

I'll have to see if I can find someone that has one I can borrow, but that is definitely a good idea.

 

[snorvich]

Use a automotive buffer and buff a little more just make sure that you touch the panel in between buffing just take sure you are not getting it to hot. I just. Think that you need to buff a little more and the finer scratches should come out

I agree. That is what my LFS does.

 

[sfsuphysics]

Sounds like you didn't buff it enough.

 

[Itchy Trigger]

Going to try buffing some more with the Novus 2 and if that doesn't work, will look into getting a cheap buffing wheel. Would you use the Novus solution with the buffing wheel?

 

[todddye]

I normally use an automotive buffer, but on a recent build I found some scratches after the tank was in place and the big buffer would've made too much of a mess. I got some advice from another thread about using a headlight restoration kit from Lowes so I picked one up and it worked great. It was a Gator brand kit that had the sanding discs, foam buffing pad for a drill, and polish.

I've never used Novus with a buffer, so I can't answer that question.

 

[albano]

Novus used with a cordless drill/driver & a small buffing pad should do the trick

 

[Itchy Trigger]

Nice idea re: the headlight restoration kit / drill buffing pad!

 

[Itchy Trigger]

So I picked up this buffing pad and now I realize this might not be right? Looks like you're meant to use the edge of the wheel? I was envisioning polishing with the face of the wheel. Can I use this or is this the wrong part?

 

[albano]

So I picked up this buffing pad and now I realize this might not be right? Looks like you're meant to use the edge of the wheel? I was envisioning polishing with the face of the wheel. Can I use this or is this the wrong part?

??? Use the force... I mean face!... But not their compound

 

[Da Maui life]

Use a automotive buffer

:thumbsup:

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=22053064&postcount=8
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=22051797&postcount=5

 

[Da Maui life]

So I picked up this buffing pad and now I realize this might not be right? Looks like you're meant to use the edge of the wheel? I was envisioning polishing with the face of the wheel. Can I use this or is this the wrong part?

You are right the stitch wheel is to be used at the edge. Works well for in side corners that a foam pad can not get to. I'd keep it, as it come in hand. I used a 3" on a drill

 

[Da Maui life]

 

[Itchy Trigger]

You are right the stitch wheel is to be used at the edge. Works well for in side corners that a foam pad can not get to. I'd keep it, as it come in hand. I used a 3" on a drill

OK, will hang on to it... For this job though, I need a kit like this one I believe:

 

[Da Maui life]

The kit your showing me is not the greatest as your going to use a drill,(I think? Can’t tell from the photo) they don’t give that crystal clear finish that you ‘can’ get from a real automotive buffer, RPM’s that can be adjusted proper pads ,compound, control. The faint crisscross pattern you get when done is a combination of Novus and elbow/drill method, nether one IMHO cut the muster for that pristine finish.

It is entirely your call on what you wish to use but better ways are available with out the struggle.

 

[Itchy Trigger]

The kit your showing me is not the greatest as your going to use a drill, they don't give that crystal clear finish that you "˜can' get from a real automotive buffer, RPM's that can be adjusted proper pads ,compound, control. The faint crisscross pattern you get when done is a combination of Novus and elbow/drill method, nether one IMHO cut the muster for that pristine finish.

It is entirely your call on what you wish to use but better ways are available with out the struggle.

I have no doubt you're right about that. I just figured I'd try for the less expensive route first. I already have a drill and that kit is only $10... If that fails, I'll consult that list of equipment in your other post and go that route. Everything I'd need is on that list?

 

[Da Maui life]

Yes it is. - the type of buffer I use, did up-date thread.

 

[Itchy Trigger]

OK... Got my buffing wheels... There's a foam one and a fuzzy rayon one (see pic). I'm not sure which one is used for the finest polishing... Would I use the foam one and then finish with the fuzzy one, or the other way around?

 

[Da Maui life]

Well personally I would use only foam pads and not a wool or man-made wool pad, “fuzzy rayon one.”

The main thing to keep in mind if your using more then one compound as typically done you need more then one foam pad, don’t contaminate one pad with cut compound and finish compound.