Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
Thanks you for the kind words, I just finished up the ATO
Edges could've used a good polish,
Edges could've used a good polish,
Acrylic Work
- Thread starter Sisterlimonpot
- Start date
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
There's definitely a slight taper to the material after cutting it and there's a few ways to square it up. One easy way is to use a jointer or a router table. I have both and for ease I use the jointer because it's right there and ready to go. As far as the router, most tables will have an option to use it as a jointer, they usually come with spacers to go on one side of the fence to allow a perfectly straight edge by removing either 1/16" or 1/8" at a time. The router bit would have to be a straight carbide bit long enough for the material thickness.
Both have their advantages and disadvantages, the router allows you to lay your sheet down on the table as cut a square edge and opposed to the jointer, you have to keep the sheet flush on the fence otherwise you have anomalies in your edge. As mentioned the ease of the jointer makes squaring material easy because I use my router for many different things, it's hard to keep it in the configuration for jointing acrylic.
Another way is what most acrylic guys do if they're mass producing pieces is to use the laser to cut out templates and then use the templates to make exact replicas with a flush trim router bit and table.
I wouldn't necessarily agree that the tapered edge would yield failure down the line if done correctly. One thing that is lost on most people is the fact that weld on isn't an adhesive. It actually liquefies the acrylic to be joined and bonds the two pieces as one. One thing that I discovered is that you have to provide a gap between the 2 pieces (I use acupuncture needles) and allow the weld on to do it's job. once it had enough time to liquefy the joint, I remove the needles and lightly clamp the pieces to remove any air bubbles. If you do that correctly then what was once a taper has now oosed out providing a complete surface bond.
Both have their advantages and disadvantages, the router allows you to lay your sheet down on the table as cut a square edge and opposed to the jointer, you have to keep the sheet flush on the fence otherwise you have anomalies in your edge. As mentioned the ease of the jointer makes squaring material easy because I use my router for many different things, it's hard to keep it in the configuration for jointing acrylic.
Another way is what most acrylic guys do if they're mass producing pieces is to use the laser to cut out templates and then use the templates to make exact replicas with a flush trim router bit and table.
I wouldn't necessarily agree that the tapered edge would yield failure down the line if done correctly. One thing that is lost on most people is the fact that weld on isn't an adhesive. It actually liquefies the acrylic to be joined and bonds the two pieces as one. One thing that I discovered is that you have to provide a gap between the 2 pieces (I use acupuncture needles) and allow the weld on to do it's job. once it had enough time to liquefy the joint, I remove the needles and lightly clamp the pieces to remove any air bubbles. If you do that correctly then what was once a taper has now oosed out providing a complete surface bond.
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
Had to raise my skimmer so that it sat at the right level in the sump. Found a scrap piece of acrylic and cut it out on the laser
The legs were cut at the same time and a simple glue job. No measuring, just eyeballed it
Now it sits at the right level
The legs were cut at the same time and a simple glue job. No measuring, just eyeballed it
Now it sits at the right level
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
High and low lvl float switch holder:
Some machining this time
Put the neodymium magnets in.
These were used to redirect the magnetic field away from the reed switch inside the float switches.
Seal it all up
Some machining this time
Put the neodymium magnets in.
These were used to redirect the magnetic field away from the reed switch inside the float switches.
Seal it all up
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
Matching side
