Adding 9 corals in the next 2-3 weeks into my 150 gal RT ok ?

Tourpicks1

New member
I purchased the following corals is it ok to purchase 9-12 corals in a 2-3 week span ? they dont take at least not from what i think the bio load do they ?
my reading are not perfect but good- only problems are a showing of .1 nitrite and 25 ppm of nitrate, which im working so so hard on
water changes 3x a week,cutting back dramatically on feedings by 70%
i purchased some shaving bush plants to help with the nitrates every little difference helps and i purchased a few large corcea clams. I also have an excellent CUC to help with dietrus and im doing all i can do.

heres the list i trust ill be receiving.
1-Torch Coral Indonesia
2-Aussie Hammer Coral
3-Colony Polyp, Eagle Eye
4-Toadstool Mushroom Leather Coral
5-Colony Polyp, Neon Green
6-Frogspawn Coral Indonesia
7-Frogspawn Branching Coral Indonesia
8-Aussie Acan Lord Coral
9-Radioactive Dragon Eye and Wham'n Watermelon Colony Polyp Rock Zoanthus IM
10-Hammer Coral Indonesia
11-Aussie Acan Lord Coral

anything in particular i shoud know about these exact corals ? if its too many for 3 weeks span i can place some in my 125 RT and then put them all in my 150 RT.

a couple of questions real simple
1- can i put braching frogsoawn corals together with branching forgspawn corals i currently have.
2-is the best spot for an acan lord the sb or substrate and do they move alot ?
3-can i place branching hammer corals togther and also with regular hammer corals and mic green with pink and also with gold ?
4-can i mix zoos in a corner for example purple zoos with green and red zoos etc.. with zoanthius corals harm eachother or can i place them next do eachother and if so will that be a problem meaning all the various colors will turn 1 color i.e putting pink zoos with neon green zoos and wham and watermelon zoos so they all turn green ?or they will thrive nicely in close proximity ?
5-i dont know much about a torch coral not sure the latin name either- i mean i know the basic info placment levels sal ph temp..etc.. but can it be mixed with other lps "eupheliya" (sorry if i spelled that wrongly) or does it need to be on its own and 6 inches apart from all corals.
6-can someone rate these corals from a 1-being peaceful and 10- being extremely aggresive- and also rate them from easy to care for 1 being easy coral 10 being very hard to keep alive and thrive long term.

im a novice only 5 years in the hobby and forgot alot of the books i read about corals and some of these aussie lord brain corals i never owned since they are very very expensive i really appreciate if someone could answer my questions and help me out i think it would also help many reefers out as well.
thanks so much kindly and i really appreciate it-

again thanks i appreciate this so much i learn so much from you guys!
are there any new great books about how to keep a reef tank in great condition for years i have fenners books but he doesnt go in deoth on many items i have i mean its almost impossible with so much out there, but hes fabulous! for any beginner its a must read-

here arefew photos of my 150 RT EXCUSE THE POOR CAMERA WORK LOL I USED MY PHONE! i need to get a camera and learn how to use it!

IMG_6193.jpg


IMG_6188.jpg


IMG_6185.jpg


IMG_6168.jpg


IMG_6161.jpg


ric1.jpg


ric2.jpg


ric3.jpg


IMG_6136.jpg



My fav. fish of all the Chevron Tang- love it now but was madly in love when it was a juvy as the colors were about 30x more remarkable.
 
I don't know if Id go so far as to qt for 10 weeks but if you have a qt tank a couple weeks wouldn't be a bad idea. However you would definitely want to dip them. Revive,CoralRX and Lugols are good options.

As far as adding a large number at once, its really not something you need to worry about with corals like you do with fish.
 
All lps are fine together but wage chemical warfare so keep many inches apart. Most warfare is intraspecies and not interspecies however.
Acans are sedentary
Zoas do not fight with eachother and asexually reproduce through budding which can result in color morons but they won't all turn green
Ur tank looks healthy. Water change weekkly and add some carbon with these additions. And make sure ca and alk are right and po4 is nill
 
i cant qt corals as i have a 20 gallon tank and cant fit 10 corals in them with room apart unless i build shelves with eggcrate also i dont have a MH light for that tank i have just 1 65 watt cf bulb. can u mix the same corals with eachother example
a forgspawn branching with the same or a branching hammer lavender with the same in gold and the same in purple etc.. or hammer corals gold pink and green- will they fight or kill eachother ? i do keep 6-8 inches from aggresive corals like a acan brain or favia brain from a plate coral and keep 4-6 inches from semi aggresive corals like rocordea florida mushrooms and acan brains or clams or regular neon green mushrooms etc- mostly the only corals that are within a few inches are peaceful corals- i have the chemi-pure carbon but will that work with my wet.dry filter and sump and skimmmer ? if i place it where the water comes through on the layer where the filter pads are then the water comes through the pads and into live rock and some shaving bush plants maybe 25 lb's of LR and then it gets skimmed with a great skimmer andthen returned - so can i run carbon with a skimmer ? and do i rinse the bag of chemi pure real well with regular water and then just put it on the top layer where the water flows into the wet/dry ?
what will the carbon do ?
i know im all over and this is alot i appreciate any response or help- im trying very hard to get my trates down from 25 my tank 150 gallon 4 tangs (i removed the powder blue into my 125 RT) 5 small reef chormis 1 multicolored wrasse 1 puprle dottyback and a small mandarin. i cut down my feeding by 66% and i did 15% water changes basically weekly. no luck : (
 
great- had them for a while now- i added them together and when i added other tangs i moved some rockwork around- they are brillinant in color and are very active they are very fast and swim very quick through all the caves and 125 lb's or rockwork amazingly- ocassionaly here and there two will chase eachother but they are either playing or i dont know but they all get along and have thier own spots where they go when the lights go off and i change the rockwork from time to time to accomodate new coral additions and that may affect a spot a YT will go when the lights go out but they adapt well and grow very fast. i got them at 2.5 inches and in a a few months or more are about 3.5 inches and some 3.75 inches.
 
IPHONE 4- yes they play nice with a chevron tang as well i have a 150 gallon tank with lots of caves and rockwork and overhangs-they are very active but i would make sure to give them hiding spots and and caves and make sure u put them in together or probalems can occur with a 225 u can go with schooling 5 small yellow tangs i would think just my opinion. you will see in the first week or so them squaring off with quick moves at each other and somtimes trying to hit the other yt's with their sharp "tail" if u will- but i think its just all about nothing and they are trying to establish teratories and eventually they all are fine- also u might see the upper fin with a slit in it its OK they heal. but if ur looking for active fish that are easy YT are an ideal choice imo.
 
thanks

thanks

BTW tourpicks, I love ur tank... pretty sweet :)

thanks i work hard on it- im gonna put 1 more picture friday as ill be getting in 3 clams and a brain coral aussie gonastrea bi colored purple/neon green and some more hammer corals and pink and orange encrusted montipora rocks- and some frogspawns branching when i have it all setup ill try to get the FTS. thanks for the kind words and thanks for the help everyone.
 
I don't QT corals, but I do a minimal of 5 minute dip in Coral RX first. Lots of little critters fall off, then rinse with tank water before placing in the DT.
 
u need to quarantine them for 10 weeks first

I haven't heard of quarantining corals for 10 weeks. On what do you base that recommendation? I already have spent tons of money on lighting to keep the DT corals happy. Seems that 10 weeks in QT would require at least decent lighting to even keep them alive.
 
Coral QT is a very good idea, the more coral you have in your DT, the more important the QT becomes as you put your entire DT at risk by not quarantining. There are a wide variety of pests that lay eggs on corals, and many of these eggs are not removed/destroyed by dipping (dipping is still important and at a minimum all corals should be dipped). Sooner or later something bad is likely to make it past the dip, better that happens in a QT. I only put my corals in quarntine for 6 week however.
 
Quarantine corals I will say can and will help... however its not the simple slap together task that fish are, and a lot of us.don't.have the.means to do so as it would take basically a whole other.setup whether its a smaller setup or not, and that's not feasible for a lot of us... so for many of us, we dip... but again, 10 weeks is a bit much
 
not to hijack or anything. Just wondering how do you "dip" corals? I mean does temp have to be right of the coral RX or coral dip? Do you just pour someinto a bucket or bowl as is and set the coral in for 5 minutes then pull it out?

I've never dipped corals. So, just wondering how this is done?
 
not to hijack or anything. Just wondering how do you "dip" corals? I mean does temp have to be right of the coral RX or coral dip? Do you just pour someinto a bucket or bowl as is and set the coral in for 5 minutes then pull it out?

I've never dipped corals. So, just wondering how this is done?

Here's an article that has more than everything you may want to know on this subject.

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/4/aafeature2
 
Back
Top