Advanced rearing tank system

[JHardman]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9578162#post9578162 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ovuel
I see that I underestimated the amount of waste being produced, as I was considering the "recommendations" of starting with a half full 10G. Having been through the process as many times as I'm sure you have, I can appreciate your "EO", on what is necessary to control the amount of waste being produced.

I can also see that in order to have enough filtration created by the LR to convert most of the waste being produced I would need a single rearing tank so large that it would probably stretch my larva food supply so thin, that losses would occur simply from starvation.

I used chambers in the rearing tank which allowed for concentration of larva and food. It was never a problem

Since I wasn't around when you were in the prime of your breeding do you mind commenting on what type of success rates you had before and after you got this thing running? Also if you have enough time do you mind commenting on a few adjustments you made to this system that helped increase your success-rate? I ask that simply for those of us who would try to take your idea and tweak it for our own personal preferences. I would hate to try something that you found had detrimental effects and learn the hard way.

I was always lucky and had high rates. But I seen a significant increase with the system over stand alone tanks. More importantly I had fewer fish with issues in the growout months later. Fewer misbars, deformed fish, ruts etc. I think with a well managed system one can get ~80% of the hatch to the growout system with this method.

The hardest part of rearing clowns is the nest prior to hatching and feeding high quality foods. It is no different with this system. So all the little tweaks where to provide better for each. The was a lot of playing around getting the flow on the nests right, lots of little tweaks getting the algae and rot mix right.

 

[crazzy]

I like your insight into this and I have a few questions to clarify the plumbing set up: You say above:
" With a gravity feed of water, we can very precisely control the amount and direction of the flow in the tank. Directed water flow is by far superior to air bubbles beating eggs. It is also MUCH easier to get adjusted right." and then you say:
"I had custom made rearing tanks and header tank made. Each was 6' long and width and depth matched a standard 55g tank. I divided the rearing tank into six chambers and the header tank into 3 chambers."
Does the three chamber header tank have "plain water" in one chamber which then goes to the eggs?
Do the others have Phyto, rots or brine shrimp in them which then are plumbed to go to the Larvae then babies?
In other words what is the set up for the header tanks to flow to what when? Or do you move the tank contents to different "banks" of six for different reciving from the header tanks?
Would a specially made 6' tank as you describe work with a removeable 12" wide sloped (say 60 degrees ) 53 micron screen across the back of each +/- 10 gallon segment with an external overflow? One could then hose/back flush into the tank rotifers that are against the screen. Yet be able to slide out the screen if necessary. Is there an inherent problem by doing this? (dead rots or what? )
Where do you get the 53 micron screen that is not metal?
Thanx again for bringing this methodology forward.

 

[JHardman]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9616773#post9616773 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by crazzy
I like your insight into this and I have a few questions to clarify the plumbing set up: You say above:
" With a gravity feed of water, we can very precisely control the amount and direction of the flow in the tank. Directed water flow is by far superior to air bubbles beating eggs. It is also MUCH easier to get adjusted right." and then you say:
"I had custom made rearing tanks and header tank made. Each was 6' long and width and depth matched a standard 55g tank. I divided the rearing tank into six chambers and the header tank into 3 chambers."
Does the three chamber header tank have "plain water" in one chamber which then goes to the eggs?

I tried, unsuccessfully in keeping the critters in the header tank separated. My intention was to keep mysid shrimp, pods and ornamental shrimp. I never tried to keep a population of brine or rots. The only ones that stayed where they were put was the big shrimp. :lolspin:

If I was to do it again, I would plumb the header tank to a large diameter header pipe chamber. Like a 4" or 6" PVC placed horizontally below the header and above the rearing tank. Letting all header tanks drain into the chamber and not worry about what critters might be contained. Or if critter selection was important, then I would use a full height external overflow box with LEDs to attract larva from the critters.

Do the others have Phyto, rots or brine shrimp in them which then are plumbed to go to the Larvae then babies?

I hand fed rots and/or BBS to the rearing tanks as needed. I found that for the most part it was a working co-culture but required population busts from time to time. I pumped algae to the whole of the system.

In other words what is the set up for the header tanks to flow to what when? Or do you move the tank contents to different "banks" of six for different reciving from the header tanks?
Would a specially made 6' tank as you describe work with a removeable 12" wide sloped (say 60 degrees ) 53 micron screen across the back of each +/- 10 gallon segment with an external overflow? One could then hose/back flush into the tank rotifers that are against the screen. Yet be able to slide out the screen if necessary. Is there an inherent problem by doing this? (dead rots or what? )

I like that idea. Especially the back wash to keep the screens clean!

Where do you get the 53 micron screen that is not metal?
Thanx again for bringing this methodology forward.

If I remember right I got it from Aquatic Eco.

 

[crazzy]

Thanx
"I tried, unsuccessfully in keeping the critters in the header tank separated. My intention was to keep mysid shrimp, pods and ornamental shrimp. I never tried to keep a population of brine or rots. The only ones that stayed where they were put was the big shrimp.
If I was to do it again, I would plumb the header tank to a large diameter header pipe chamber. Like a 4" or 6" PVC placed horizontally below the header and above the rearing tank. Letting all header tanks drain into the chamber and not worry about what critters might be contained. Or if critter selection was important, then I would use a full height external overflow box with LEDs to attract larva from the critters."
So then if you did this, then there is no reason to have a header tank with three compartments?

 

[JHardman]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9621924#post9621924 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by crazzy
Thanx
"I tried, unsuccessfully in keeping the critters in the header tank separated. My intention was to keep mysid shrimp, pods and ornamental shrimp. I never tried to keep a population of brine or rots. The only ones that stayed where they were put was the big shrimp.
If I was to do it again, I would plumb the header tank to a large diameter header pipe chamber. Like a 4" or 6" PVC placed horizontally below the header and above the rearing tank. Letting all header tanks drain into the chamber and not worry about what critters might be contained. Or if critter selection was important, then I would use a full height external overflow box with LEDs to attract larva from the critters."
So then if you did this, then there is no reason to have a header tank with three compartments?

I wouldn't go that far...

While all the critters ended up mixed after a few months, it is still possible to "clean up" the partitions to restore the critter mix.

 

[FishnWishn]

What timing, I have a grow out tank that I am setting up with just what you are talking about. The top two header tanks will be filled with LR in one and Macroalgae/SSB in the other. Is this what you are talking about?
Setup:
Top tank: 49"L X 9"FTB X 8" deep - Filled with LR
Second Tank: Same as top tank- MacroAlgae
Third tank: 49"L X 13" FTB X 10" deep- 3-4 sections
bottom tank: 49"L X 18" FTB X 12" deep- 2-3 sections

A 30 gallon sump with a Lifegaurd Mechanical, Chemical/carbon, & Lifegaurd 600 fluidized sand filter returned by an Iwaki-70RLTZ pressure pump. I was planning on using an ASM G3 skimmer but it seems like you recommend not using one. I was also given an extra tank with the setup that is 60"X13"X10" that I was thinking of using as a remote DSB tank.
Any thoughts on what I should skip or add? Here is a pic before I started drilling. The blue is not water or paint, but just the protective wrapper around the acrylic.

 

[lfduty]

Nice tanks FishnWishn