You will be very surprised to read what ATI (Oliver P in this case) thinks about actinic tubes:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=23060872#post23060872
For maximum PAR & PUR, B+ and C+ combination is hard to beat. If one has a 8-tube combination or more, then adding an actinic tube may add an extra "spice" to host fluorescent pigments. However, if an actinic tube replaces B+, then growth will suffer.
I run a Cebu Sun with (2) 250w MH Radiums with Giesemann (1) Super Actinic, (1) Super Purple, (2) Actinic Blue. Anyone else run the new Giesemann T5 bulbs? I'm happy with the color and growth but unsure if there's a better recommended T5 combo to complement the radiums.
PUR stands for Photosynthetically Useable Radiation. It is also known as "useful light energy" as well as photosynthetic wavelengths and photosynthetic action spectrum
PUR differs from PAR because the basic definition of PAR is ANY light in a specific frequency range of 400 to 700 nanometers that is needed by plants & symbiotic zooanthellic algae.
PUR is the usable portion of PAR, and different photosynthetic species will have a different PUR range to which they respond.
I recently bought some frags from a guy with an amazing tank. He runs ATI T5 fixtures (as I do), but runs mostly true actinic bulbs with a couple of purples for daylight. The colors of his SPS were amazing, much better than mine.
I had never run true actinics because I'd heard that blues are better for PAR.
Do people here find that adding a true actinic bulb makes a significant difference in the coloration of their coral?
Reef Cowboy
You saw improvement in color after you added the blue T5s to the hydra, or the hydra to the blue bulbs? I have found that my corals like T5s better than LEDs - perhaps due to better spectrum coverage, perhaps due to something else - but when I re-introduced T5s to my setup (that had previously been LEDs) coloration improved almost immediately.