Advice for refinishing a stand?
- Thread starter SammieT
- Start date
Bl4ckDr4g0n
New member
The first thing you should do is study. There are a myriad of finishes for wood. It would also be helpful to know what is the current finish, and what is the species of wood the stand is made from. I just refinished my stand and I used an oil based stain and a polyurethane top coat. If I had it to do again I would have chosen a different top coat, but it came out nice. The 30 day cure time and the fact the finish couldn't be rubbed out would have driven a different selection had I known.
Bl4ckDr4g0n
New member
What are you wanting to do with it?
Knock off all the white and stain new color
CStrickland
New member
Ever use spar poly? Used to use it for beachside railings and it holds up very well to getting wet and uv exposure. Not sure if our lamps are strong enough to do anythin to the stand.
If I had op's stand I would spray several layers of gloss white paint on the inside and on the outside I would do a driftwood technique. It's really easy and comes out like this tabletop:
It looks like wood that floated in the ocean and then bleached in the sun. I did a shelf that way and in came out awesome
If there's any way to have the table stick out a little more from the tank on one side it is a huuuge convience to have a small shelf to rest your test vials (or beer) while you work on a tank.
Bl4ckDr4g0n
New member
I would use a stripper to remove the old paint followed by sanding it. You can find plenty of info via Google on stains and top coats. There are several choices such as oil vs water based just to start with. All will have a different look when done. I used general finishes gel stain and arm r seal to finish my stand. I love the way it turned out, but I was not anticipating the 30 day cure time for the arm r seal.
Too be honest, no idea what's it's made of
I bought some sanding paper and tried to take off a little and this was the result
davocean
Active member
Ever use spar poly? Used to use it for beachside railings and it holds up very well to getting wet and uv exposure. Not sure if our lamps are strong enough to do anythin to the stand.
If I had op's stand I would spray several layers of gloss white paint on the inside and on the outside I would do a driftwood technique. It's really easy and comes out like this tabletop:
It looks like wood that floated in the ocean and then bleached in the sun. I did a shelf that way and in came out awesome
If there's any way to have the table stick out a little more from the tank on one side it is a huuuge convience to have a small shelf to rest your test vials (or beer) while you work on a tank.
Spar is good as well, that looks really nice, takes a little artsy skill to do that
CStrickland
New member
Only a tiny little bit. You get the old paint mostly off and then rub primer on the wood and then off again like a stain. Then you just poly like normal. Since it's not supposed to be even you don't have to fuss much.
Yeah I hope so, I took off a little more and it looks good just sanded down
I wonder if the finished product will look good also
davocean
Active member
That's actually a nice hidden surprise, usually painted surfaces are made from cheaper materials, so to answer your question, yes I'm sure that can look great when you are finished, just spend the time needed to take it all the way down to clean bare wood, and make sure your final pass is w/ 220 to remove all scratches from previous grits
I used the 120 sand paper sheet and took off all the paint and smoothed it out with another 120 block, the wood is extremely smooth.
I plan on doing this all around the stand and resealing the bottom with some silicone and some waterproof floor mats
davocean
Active member
After your 120 pass do one w/ 150, then 220, it's really hard to see what scratches are still present until you have clear coated and then it's kinda too late to fix, trust me on this one.
In fact, even after you think you've got all those scratches out just go and hit it again a couple hours and I bet you'll still see you missed a couple.
Don't do any silicone until after you have stained first, silicone repels, and then when you do use paintable caulk w/ silicone additive, goes on white dries clear.
Straight silicone on wood or painted surfaces becomes a mess.
I like to stain, caulk, and then clear coat on top of that after it's good and dry
In fact, even after you think you've got all those scratches out just go and hit it again a couple hours and I bet you'll still see you missed a couple.
Don't do any silicone until after you have stained first, silicone repels, and then when you do use paintable caulk w/ silicone additive, goes on white dries clear.
Straight silicone on wood or painted surfaces becomes a mess.
I like to stain, caulk, and then clear coat on top of that after it's good and dry
Hmmmm okay, thanks for the heads up
I also purchased some putty to fill any deep dents or scratches... should do the job?
