Advice on decent RO/DI unit?

I went with the Typhoon after a ton of research, and Im glad I did! The Dow membranes are top notch....
 
Looks like you have done some research. You have a quality unit there with exceptional customer service. Just make sure you get the 75GPD membrane (as you probably already know); also mention you're from RC and get a free float switch.

eee
 
IMO you can save some money buying from a sponsor here who has been getting pretty great reviews. Check out www.purelyh2o.com and be sure and mention that you are an RC member. Bryan will knock off 10%.
Check out the Optima series. Under $200 without the discount amd includes everything you need.
 
The purelyh20 system looks nice but my city water is treated with chloramine and it looks like the "Optima Chloramine Advanced", a 5 stage system is $249. The "Optima professional" is $189 but is only a 4 stage - not sure it will take care of chloramines.

The Typhoon III is 5 stage and states that the 1micron carbon block is "a big help w/ chloramine" not sure what that means exactly.

I hate my compulsive research problem on everything I buy, just don't want to make an expensive bad decision.

Anybody have one of these that have chloramine in their water?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7191809#post7191809 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by smleee
also mention you're from RC and get a free float switch.
Click to expand...

I am pretty sure that they come with the switch even if you don't say you're a RC member. They also come with a TDS meter!

I am about to get a Typhoon because the Coralife one i got is a piece of crap.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7198230#post7198230 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by grendl
www.Purelyh20.com Give Byan a call or PM & see what he recommends. My system from him is nothing short of amazing, & I consider it a huge value.
Click to expand...

He will probably recommend his product ;)

AWI, Buckeyefieldsupply, Purelyh20, Spectrapure, are all good quality units from what I've seen posted by the experts here...

I was lucky and picked up a used spectrapure RO/DI for $75-- :smokin:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7197145#post7197145 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nm354
I am about to get a Typhoon because the Coralife one i got is a piece of crap.
Click to expand...

Yes, I went from the Coralife PurFloII to the Typhoon III.........(I did win the Coralife in a raffle :p ) The difference cannot be expressed in words.

eee
 
does anyone have a pic of their typhoon that they could share? I am wondering how the pressure gasuge is mounted and does it come with an inline tds meter on it? pics would be great!!! I have also heard theat vertical di cartridge is not as efficient as the horizontil mounted di!?!? does anyone have any feedback on that?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7196903#post7196903 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sodaman
The purelyh20 system looks nice but my city water is treated with chloramine and it looks like the "Optima Chloramine Advanced", a 5 stage system is $249. The "Optima professional" is $189 but is only a 4 stage - not sure it will take care of chloramines.

The Typhoon III is 5 stage and states that the 1micron carbon block is "a big help w/ chloramine" not sure what that means exactly.

I hate my compulsive research problem on everything I buy, just don't want to make an expensive bad decision.

Anybody have one of these that have chloramine in their water?
Click to expand...

Yes. And you need the extra carbon block for those. The first block strips the bond between the chlorine molecule and the ammonia. The second block is then able to uptake the chlorine. If you only have one carbon block then you are allowing chlorine to hit the membrane, which will kill it very prematurely.

So, the first 3 stages are: 10 micron sediment, 5 micron carbon and then the 1 micron carbon. This also allows your pre-filters to last longer. If you are using just a 5 and 1 micron, then your 5 micron filter is going to clog that much more quickly as it is snagging the 10 micron stuff right on down to the 5 micron level. So you end up buying pre-filters more often. Walter could have set things up like that so that he could sell more cartridges, but he chose to do you a favor.
 
OK

OK

Carbon blocks are not efficient in removing chloramines..

You need a catalytic carbon in place.

Please read back to past posts and discussions regarding this issue. The fact is that a carbon block or even 2 does not allow enough contact time from water to media for the chloramine to be removed. The removal of chloramine is reactive and takes time.
The GAC stlye catalytic carbon allows for the water to slowly pass through the bed of carbon from the bottom of the filter to the top which increases the contact time from water to media. a standard carbon block can not allow enough contact time for this to be effective. Though it does serve its purpose when used with a catalytic carbon its design does not permit the needed parameters.
 
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