Advice on what to try next?

[majano]

Hey group.

here is another "how do I improve SPS color" thread. Now, I am not going to ask the question of "why are my sps pale or washed out." I am going to focus on what my params are and what should I try next (or stop) over the next month to improve color.

Here are the stats:

• • 90 gallon cube running for approx. 1.25 yr
  • lighting: one hydra 52 (blues running in mid 80s, purple in mid 70s, white and UV at 40, and green/red in 30s.) I also run two T5s, (one actinic and one 10k bulb.
  • temp is 78.5-79.2
  • Calcium is 480 ppm
  • Alk is 7
  • mag is >1300
  • nitrates are 0.2 (salifert test kit low range)
  • Phosphates are below the limit of detection (using API test)
  • I carbon dose using vodka (3 mls a day)
  • I run carbon in the sump (in media bag)
  • In addition to Calcium and alk, I dose KZ Pohls Xtra Special (3 ml per day)
  • I feed a mix of Reef Roids, Reef Chili, and OysterFeast a few times we week
  • I also use KZ CoralVitalizer each night
  • I have started dosing Sicce HyperKoral AAs each night for about a month
  • I do a weekly water change of about 5 gallons
  • I use Tropic Marin salt
  
  now for the sps:
  montis are very colorful and have moderate growth. Happy with them
  acros - my blues are REALLY blue; about half of my greens are vivid and the others are washed out (some color in tips but generally a light pale yucky color); my stylophoras are pretty colorful...no issue there.
  Most of my SPS are in the top 1/3 of the tank; the hydra is about 12 in from the water surface
  flow - in addition to the return from the sump (850 gph) I have two Koralia 600 GPH and one 900 gph.
  
  I am thinking of raising the nitrates to just under 1 ppm. I have started to do this via larger doses of AA and more feedings. What are everyone's thoughts?
  
  Also, should I try to lower the hydra settings? I don't see a difference is placement vs paleness
  
  Flow an issue? I was thinking of adding an additional power head but wanted to raise nitrates to see if that improves coloration.
  
  I was thinking of trying some of the sps color supplements (like Red Sea), which appear to be specific elements used to improve color. I am not sold on this given other posts I have seen, but may try if the first two ideas don't work.
  
  Also, can it just be that some sps will wash out while others don't? I have seen both colors improve and suffer in my tank.
  
  How does this game plan sound?

 

[majano]

Any thoughts?

Another thing I was thinking...should I double check my phosphate levels? I get a white film on the glass every two days, with a more brown film further down on the glass. My sandbed stays pretty white.

I have a Duncan colony sitting on a rock down on the sandbed that is multiplying like crazy...I head they like higher phosphate levels, so my though it my phosphate levels may be a little higher than what would be ideal for my sps.

 

[markalot]

Get a better phosphate test kit, I like Salifert, but don't sweat it.

Try and take some clear macro pictures of the pale corals to make sure you don't have pests.

With some corals pale you may have some hot spots with the lights or they are in areas of higher PAR. Then again, some acros just take longer to color up.

If you have good blue acros then I think you are doing ok, just keep everything stable.

 

[jda]

For parms, I would get the calcium down to more NSW levels, but that is probably not it. If you want to raise the N and P, then cut your vodka down to 2mls per day and let it rise that way. However, it is probably not parameters since they look good. Eventually, you will get to lights, which is probably the issue.

 

[joekidwell]

I started feeding three times a day and my sps couldn't be happier. I don't feed the corals at all let the fish poop and microscopic food partials do the rest. I skim heavy and keep up with water changes so I don't have to dose carbon or all that fancy stuff.

 

[majano]

Thanks for all of the replies!

Markalot, I ordered a Salifert Phosphate test kit...hopefully it will come in the next few days. I am happy with the Salifert nitrate test kit, even though it uses a ridiculously small amount of water for the test. I actually find the low end reading pretty easy to distinguish.

I have scaled back by vodka dosing by 1 mL. Last night, I freaked out about the possibility of red bugs. There was one small frag that I was suspicious about, so I took it out and dipped it. I couldn't really see anything so I am hopeful that is not it.

Other than scaling back the vodka, I added a bit more flow. I am going to give that two weeks to see how things go. Then I may start feeding a bit more. I plan on taking some pics this weekend, and will share them in with the group.

Thanks again! I'll keep everyone posted.

 

[majano]

:sad2:
So I think I have solved the problem. During my water change I tried to pull one of the colonies of the rock and it easily detached (thank you wonderful epoxy). I decided to dip it during my water change and sure enough, I found some AEFWs.

A couple of questions:

• Are some acropora more susceptible to AEFW? Like I have mentioned, a few of my frags look great, while some are just paling out and growing very slow. Maybe those that slime better (at least that is what I have read)
• What are some good methods to remove them? I am going to try some of the flatworm meds.

This sucks!

 

[Reef Bass]

Yes, big time suckage. My condolences. You will get different opinions on aefw acro preferences, but in my experience, eventually they will all be infected. AEFW hatchlings have a free swimming stage.

IMHO, a regimen of weekly dips for 6-8 weeks is necessary to break their life cycle. One needs to kill all the adult egg layers and then keep dipping until any remaining eggs have hatched and the new hatchlings have been irradicated. Then the infection is over.

Yes, dipping large encrusted colonies is a pain. I've mixed dip in 2 and 5g buckets to accommodate larger colonies on rocks. And it has to be weekly for 6-8 weeks without fail or excuse.

You'll also get opinions that they can be handled with basting and wrasses but IMHO while you might possibly reduce their numbers you will not eliminate them that way.

 

[Nanighan]

Get a bunch of different wrasses. Since you caught them somewhat early you can try wrasses and monitor the acros. I had AEFW over 2.5 years ago and never dipped. I bought 3 different wrasses (dragon, green, yellow hog) and in a matter of weeks I saw big improvement! Im pretty sure Im free of AEFW but I keep a wrasse (sixline) just in case.
If you're wondering what happed to my wrasses...2 jumped and one died.
Not saying not to dip but just another avenue if you want to take it.

 

[majano]

so here is an update. I got KZ Flatworm Stop, which I am dosing daily. From what I read, it doesn't really kill AEFW, but improves the slime coating on acros. I have been dipping the colonies that look infested. I am also in the wrasse market!

Ill keep you in the loop on how things go.