AEFW and Red Bugs

Rickyrooz1

Rickyrooz1

Acropora Nut
What is the best method of treatment for AEFW and Acropora Eating Red Bugs? Can the tank be treated for these two pests or will they need to be dipped in a solution? I have interceptor for the red bugs but what is the most effective treatment for AEFW? Can I mix the Interceptor with the AEFW treatment in a bucket and treat the coral or do I have to have each treatment solution in a separate bucket?
 
fraggleRocks, thanks! Luckily I have all three products on me so I can do this treatment. Although a 25 min. dip in Interceptor doesn't seem long enough to rid the corals of Red Bugs.
 
There is a sticky on pests and their treatment...and on interceptor under this forum.

I would look at it.

From my experience, and this is just my personal experience, since others have had different experiences.

Red bug treatment - Interceptor worked, but had to treat the tank for 24 hours.

I tried to do 3 - 8 hour treatments but they always came back.

I even dosed a little high to make sure, but it was not until I left medicine in for 24 hours did it work fully.

I will say, I experienced more loss of crabs during 24 hour treatment, than the 8 hour one.

Also, different treatment when doing a dip of new frags vs. treatment of display tank.
 
Sorry to hear Ricky about the AEFW. RB's are nothing as many people have them and do not even know about them. After treating them with interceptor, the tank will clean right up. AEFW are a completely different story in my opinion. As mentioned, there is a sticky in this forum with some decent information. There is no in tank treatment that works up to this point. Some "manage" their population through wrasses and basting their corals, but to rid the tank of them, you must cut off their food source and break the life cycle.

Good luck. Its not the end of the world :)
 
One additional piece of information on the flatworms. I used Levamisole on my flat worms, although they were not AEFW.

I found it was an effective treatment. Link to were I purchased it below.

http://www.inkmkr.com/Fish/ItemsForSale.html

I would still consider this experimental, given it has not received widespread acceptance, but it was effective for me.

You do need to be careful, because like interceptor there are losses you can have.

IME snails and clams should be removed if possible prior to treatment....but for the most part all were ok ultimately...just could tell they were suffering a bit.
 
mpoletti said:
Sorry to hear Ricky about the AEFW. RB's are nothing as many people have them and do not even know about them. After treating them with interceptor, the tank will clean right up. AEFW are a completely different story in my opinion. As mentioned, there is a sticky in this forum with some decent information. There is no in tank treatment that works up to this point. Some "manage" their population through wrasses and basting their corals, but to rid the tank of them, you must cut off their food source and break the life cycle.

Good luck. Its not the end of the world :)
Click to expand...

Thanks Mark
 
Sorry to hear about the pest. I'm with Mark RB's are easy to treat but if you have both set up a QT to treat for both at the same time. The sticky has a ton of good info and the best treatments and methods. Good luck!
 
I set up a 5 gallon tank to use as a quarantine tank yesterday afternoon. I’m using the Koralia nano for water circulation, a 50/50 spectrum 40 watt power compact light fixture and a 50 watt heater. I did this so I could inspect a few of my corals that have a few bite marks on them possibly from Acropora Eating Flatworms (AEFW). I also wanted to make sure the red bugs were gone so I added 1/16th of a large dog tablet of Interceptor. I plan to dip these corals in TLF ReVive for 10 minutes to see if the AEFW’s fall off any corals. I will keep you updated on my progress.

SDC10416.jpg


SDC10418.jpg

The ORA green acro with blue polyps on the left has a few bite marks and is turning brown.

SDC10419.jpg

You can see the Tri-Color on the right has a few bite marks and is turning brown.
 
Gotcha... I was thinking that you had a few more corals than that. My opinion would be to get started on the process and use more water volume. You will want to treat all of the corals at the same time and make sure to scrape all of the bases of the rock. Thats extra food source and more places for eggs to hide.

Feel free to PM me if you have any specific questions.
 
mpoletti said:
Gotcha... I was thinking that you had a few more corals than that. My opinion would be to get started on the process and use more water volume. You will want to treat all of the corals at the same time and make sure to scrape all of the bases of the rock. Thats extra food source and more places for eggs to hide.

Feel free to PM me if you have any specific questions.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I won't be able to work on my tank until I graduate from UNC in December but I plan to tear down the 120 and start all over. I want to use less live rock and make a rockscape similar to Ching Chai's by making rock towers. This will give me better flow and I might go bare bottom so I can siphon the detritus when it settles in the corner. I want to dry out all the live rock and re-cure it, I want to make frags of all the corals and start up a frag tank. This will make it easier to treat the corals for Red Bugs and AEFW since I can dip each frag in a solution of ReVive. I'm not sure how the fish will fair during this, I guess I'll have to keep them in a rubbermaid container and change the water every few days to prevent a spike in ammonia and nitrite. I want to dry out the live rock so it will kill any parasites living on the rocks/coral bases and it'll take care of the aiptasia. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated on how I should go about this plan.
 
I had (prob still do) AEFW in my 175...I got a black leopard wrasse and basted and now I baste weekly and might see 2-3 blow off--and I baste thoroughly.

far cry though 6 mos ago when 300:fun5:came off my valida colony and MANY blew off during daily bastings.
 
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