Algae outbreak HELP!

alex32388

New member
I'v been going through a tough battle with green hair algae growing on my rocks, red slime algae all over my sand bed and on my rocks, and also what seems to be brown algae. Also, Phosphate, Nitrates are at 0. Water changes are performed on weekly bases, and i am not over feeding. tank is fed every other day very small portions. what can be causing this problem? Thanks if advance.
 
Same problem here...plenty of flow.

I am currently in the process of trying this four days without lights thing that i saw someone talking about...you run your atinics the first day, no lights the second and third day and atinics again on the fourth. Then followed by a water change to hwere you vacume as much detrius out as possible....seems to be working from what i can see...i will keep you posted.
 
Im running to small powerheads and the water im using is from my lfs which has been tested and has no problem. The fresh water im using is green cap publix brand water.
 
From what I've read Alex, the best thing you can do is increase the flow in your tank and do more frequent water changes.

What kind of powerheads are you running over there? Most people will tell you that you would like around 20x turnover, meaning if you have a 30 gallon tank, you want around 600 GPH turnover.
 
im currently running 2 small powerheads i belive 160gph on my 25 gallon tank. i think ill be replacing them with 2 hydor koralia #1 to increase my water flow.
 
Im planning on replacing my power heads with 2 Hydor Koralia's #1 which put out 400gph. would this be to much flow for my 25 gallon tank?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9707363#post9707363 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by alex32388
Im planning on replacing my power heads with 2 Hydor Koralia's #1 which put out 400gph. would this be to much flow for my 25 gallon tank?

That would be 800 GPH for a TO rate of 32. That's a lot of flow but if it's a fish only tank I think that should be fine. If you have coral or are planning on having coral I believe that flow would be too high for certain species.

I'm running 2 MJ 1200's (rated at 295 GPH) in my 30 gallon and the flow is great.
 
iv been told that another link to this might be my bulbs needed to be replaced? can this be part of the cause of my algae outbreak?
 
This is what was posted in one of my thread when I ask about lights and algae.

Light does not fuel algae, typically dissolved organics are the fuel source (nitrates, phosphates, etc.). Light is necessary though for them to process the fuel. Eliminating light also does not solve the problem, just delays things until you turn them back on. To eliminate nuisance algae, you have to reduce or remove the fuel source as much as possible while providing a good environment for other species that can outcompete the nuisance varieties.

If your tank is new or less than 1 year old, be patient and continue proper water changes, protein skimming, etc. to limit nutrients. It is typical for new tanks to go through several stages of nuisance algae outbreaks. If it is an older tank, review your maintenance schedule to determine where the excess nutrients are coming from. Some of the likely sources are not enough water changes, not enough export via skimming/fuge/etc., or through food sources (such as adding packing juice from frozen food, etc.).
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9708981#post9708981 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ricwilli
This is what was posted in one of my thread when I ask about lights and algae.

Light does not fuel algae, typically dissolved organics are the fuel source (nitrates, phosphates, etc.). Light is necessary though for them to process the fuel. Eliminating light also does not solve the problem, just delays things until you turn them back on. To eliminate nuisance algae, you have to reduce or remove the fuel source as much as possible while providing a good environment for other species that can outcompete the nuisance varieties.

If your tank is new or less than 1 year old, be patient and continue proper water changes, protein skimming, etc. to limit nutrients. It is typical for new tanks to go through several stages of nuisance algae outbreaks. If it is an older tank, review your maintenance schedule to determine where the excess nutrients are coming from. Some of the likely sources are not enough water changes, not enough export via skimming/fuge/etc., or through food sources (such as adding packing juice from frozen food, etc.).

I do have one comment on the first part here. Removing the light will not solve the problem, but it will allow your herbivores to catch up, thats the point.

I usually ask people with algae problems how many herbivores are in their tank. A significant increase in snail population can help.

Also, I recommend getting a TDS meter. I would be willing to bet that the publix brand water is not as pure as you would like. It might be worth saving up to get an RO/DI system. That is more than likely the source of your nutrient problem.
 
I've been running my tank for a while. I recently added some extra snails to replace those I had "lost" ;) It's something I just forgot about how important thee little guys are.
 
I guess the publix water would be one of my last guesses as well. Can any one give me a little feed back on how the RO/DI system works? keep in mind i have a small 25 gal. tank.
 
RO/DI systems are available through many vendors. I got mine on Ebay. They can be run in a variety of applications.

They work by forcing water through a membrane. Water that passes through the membrane is filtered, then passed through Deionization resin that removes any additional ions. The resulting water is highly purified. You can get one for around $100

I used to run mine off a tap adapter and fill containers in the bathtub, when they overflowed I turned off the filter

Now that I have my own home I run my filter into a large rubbermaid container that has a float valve installed in it.

Does that help?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9717065#post9717065 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by alex32388
I guess the publix water would be one of my last guesses as well. Can any one give me a little feed back on how the RO/DI system works? keep in mind i have a small 25 gal. tank.

I use Publix water for top off and I've never had an algae outbreak and my tank is 30 gallons.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9717324#post9717324 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reeftanker04
I use Publix water for top off and I've never had an algae outbreak and my tank is 30 gallons.

I'll revert to my first suggestion here. Get a TDS meter (Usually about $15 on ebay) and test the water. Just trying to eliminate possibilities.

I have a bottle of store brand steam distilled water here that tests at 1ppm tds which is low. However in order for algae to grow there needs to be a nutrient source.

If the water is clean you may want to increase the water flow in the tank to stave off the cyano.

How many snails live in this tank? Increasing your herbivore population will help you get rid of the hair algae.
 
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