Algae Scrubber vs Algae Reactor

[jason2459]

The ATS is less expensive to start up, but takes up more space,(non in sump models). If you have the space, trying an ATS first seems like a better option. If it doesnt work or you feel it's making the water yellow, you could always try the ARID later.

I've seen remote ATSs built as well and even hidden in a cabinet. They can be made self contained.

But I'm all for harvesting algae of some kind in anyway possible. This could be in a refugium, reactor like the ARID, or a turf scrubber.

Best refugium setup I've seen is by d2mini. Arid has a great looking product and looks like a few DIY and competitors coming out now. There's a HUGE amount of DIY turf scrubber out there and some well thought out commercial ones with Turbos Aquatics being my favorite so far.

 

[jason2459]

My ATS took up an area abou 8/3 inches and mine was large. No granted I had the space so it wasn't a big deal. I also built mine to try it out, I would consider buying one or building a smaller more compact version of them for future use. I think both will work, it's a preference I believe. But I never had "yellow" water in my tank

Corey

Agree, yellow water should never happen in a normal healthy tank. And if it is yellow it most likely would have happened with out the algae harvesting of some kind in place.

That said all types of algae release chemicals and sugars that could yellow a tank. Not just the kind from an ATS.

 

[jason2459]

See attached...

I would expect those loclines to build up a lot of saltcreep and leak.

 

[OhMatic]

I was impressed with the Loc-Line. I find that if the links are not turned to the max I have no salt creep.
I have one 3/4 input which Ys to three 1/2 inputs and two 3/4 outputs so there is a free flow through the reactor no real pressure on it. I had one link with a defect in it that was causing salt creap which I had to replace since then no salt creep...

 

[scar79]

I've just begun my battle with hair algae in the display of my 8 month old 135. Was hoping it was just growing pains, but it has only gotten worse! I'm a fan of the "au natural" approach to reefing - I feed, skim heavy, dose 2-part, and do water changes with some regularity. No gfo, socks, or zeovit tinkering. But here I am.

I have limited sump space and already own a good sized PM upflow reactor, so for me, an algae reactor is the obvious choice for cost and fit.

I purchased a 16ft dimmable 5:1 red/blue LED strip to wrap around the reactor. 60 watts at full blast and it's quite bright. I'll have to dial it in once I get some chaeto in it and see how it reacts.

 

[OhMatic]

Pretty nice
How long have you been using the algae reactor?
What effect on water temperature have you seen?
Have you tried an ATS?

 

[scar79]

I set up the reactor 12 days ago and resumed nitrate dosing. Hair algae is 80% gone. Pretty amazing stuff, though I'm not sure where to place credit.

My system was nitrate limited with phosphate of 0.10. I dosed KNO3 daily until I was able to read 2ppm. This dove my phosphate down to .03 which is where I'd like it to stay. The chaeto has been growing and has at least doubled in volume. At least another week off until the first harvest.

I added a powder blue and yellow tang 5 days ago to complement my large kole. The PB is constantly picking at the HA. He doesn't eat significant amounts, but early on his activity was releasing chunks of algae into the water column to be picked up by the filter sock I am running for the time being. My CUC members are a tuxedo urchin, a handful of astrea snails, and an ever growing population of redband trochus snails. The astreas and tux are great at mowing this stuff down, but they simply couldn't keep up before I put the reactor online. Now they are making quick work.

I have a couple of pictures I'll post up over the weekend

 

[Leviluvrr]

What led light do you use in the diy ATS?

 

[ReefCowboy]

Ive build my ATS using led bars from Expressions LTD. Each led measures 13” and are built specifically for ATS’s. I build a unit with a 12X8” screen and 4 bars so far. I might add a third pair since I will run a heavy bioload 150gal. IMO ATS are the way to go over fuges since the algaes grown in the first ones starve chaeto when both are ran together.

I designed mine to match my custom sump and to make removing algae from the screen an easy process.

Here are a few pics:

Testing leds, with the bars only installed on one side of the ATS;











Finally in place in the sump

 

[HBtank]

I just went through the process of deciding between a reactor and a scrubber, ultimately the way most down-flow ATS have to be mounted, and adding another source of water sound and evaporation to my system were not appealing. Up-flow just seem like a PITA and no thanks to air pumps.

A reactor does none of this, so I went for that instead.

 

[SantaMonica]

Watch for alk drops though.

 

[PeteStarks]

I have been running a scrubber for over 2 years and it has pulled almost all the algae from my display tank. My only advice is to keep up on cleaning it, because if you get lazy the sheets of algae will get too dense and plop off the screen and into your system.

 

[cgw0008]

I built a chaeto reactor with a media reactor, grow light LEDs, and duct tape for like &50. Best decision I've ever made. My nitrates went to 0 in like 3 days. I don't have a sump, it just hangs on the back.

 

[johnfallon135]

what's the difference from a arid algae reactor and a regular algae/chaeto reactor? is it just that the arid reactors emit less heat because of the heat sinks? if so is this advantage really that useful are regular algae reactors prone to cracking or something?

 

[LQT]

what's the difference from a arid algae reactor and a regular algae/chaeto reactor? is it just that the arid reactors emit less heat because of the heat sinks? if so is this advantage really that useful are regular algae reactors prone to cracking or something?

It's essentially like the Royal Exclusiv of algae reactors. The fit and finish of the Pax Bellum ARID reactor's are top notch. The lights are a combination of warm white and 660 nm red. They are thermally cooled through a heat sink and the light tube itself is protected from water contact as the entire assembly, when placed into the reactor it is inserted into a protective light sleeve. This also serves to minimize heat transfer from the lights to the tank water. Nifty quick connect fittings also make disconnecting the plumbing and servicing the whole unit a breeze.