algae turf scrubber

I think pskeleton is illustrating something that is difficult to decribe, but it seems that the microalgae that we <3 to have on our ATS units really does prefer a special type of flow for the most part, although some have been successful with a "flooded" ATS, also called FATS, a term which kcress is trying so hard to coin :lol:

On that note, I do believe we should migrate away from the term ATS since it is no longer anyone's goal to grow turf algae on these devices anymore. Maybe MAS (microalgae screen) would be better? Or the acronym created by Algae Scrubbing Screen would be better?
 
LOL, widmer, yeah - Algae SS is exactly what it is. Try seeing if you can get that one to take.

What I've taken out of this is that ATS, with water flowing over it is better mainly because you don't have to clean the acrylic from unwanted build up as you would have happen in a flooded ATS type of system. That alone is enough to make me think twice about building it as a flooded ATS. Sounds like it is up for debate whether or not the algae produced works better either way. I would imagine it would be hard to quantify.

I'll give it much thought before I build. Besides, my build is a long ways off anyway.
 
What I've taken out of this is that ATS, with water flowing over it is better mainly because you don't have to clean the acrylic from unwanted build up as you would have happen in a flooded ATS type of system....

... Sounds like it is up for debate whether or not the algae produced works better either way. I would imagine it would be hard to quantify.

The wet/dry screen is better because it grows the desirable turf species better. If you want to grow other species (caulerpa, chetomorpha, halimeda, gracilaria, etc) for export, then a refugium or other "flooded" cultivation method appropriate for that species would be better.

Turf algae species grow better in a wet/dry environment. To a large extent, this includes hair algae.

Quantification:
Grow a crop of algae and dry it out. Weight it... In the end you are looking for the method that grows the fastest with the least amount of effort, energy (or whatever other criteria you assign).

If you do a google search, this subject has been studied and quantified by many folks.
 
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although mine looks hillbilly compared to the nice acrylic one, which btw looks very nice. This one works great is very easy to disassemble and clean and costs less than $10 to make. i just cleaned it about 2/8 inch of green algae. I get that pretty much once a week. My glass scrapings are down to about once every 3 weeks, and my nitrates are running in the 20s compared to 60-100 with regular water changes, 30 gallons a week, on a 300 gallon system. There are 2 more lights that go on it. I started out with an old 175 mh bulb which i think did a better job.
 
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some have been successful with a "flooded" ATS, also called FATS, a term which kcress is trying so hard to coin :lol:

:lolspin:

I think A.S.S. is a much better name! Or FASS.

The FASS(new coinage :D) has a few advantages I see over just an A.S.S. here's problems a FASS should not have:

1) The GHA breaking off and moving on to somewhere you don't want it.

2) Some users complain of smell that can show up off an open screen. (I refrained.)

3) Noise. Some can be pretty noisy.

4) Splashing and salt creeps should be eliminated.

5) (And for me the biggest problem) Humidity caused by all the evap of an open screen.
 
a.t.s. inside overflows?

a.t.s. inside overflows?

has anyone ever tried building an a.t.s. inside overflows? my tank has two large black plastic overflows, and the stray light that goes into these always makes some gha that i remove once a week. i always wondered why some people complained about gha forming in there, when it was out of sight, and could be harvested easily? lately i have been thinking that maybe i could place screen material and a light hanging over the top of the overflows.
 
chuggy; You could run the nitrates down to 0.00 if you actually put a real light on that screen. As long as it is you could probably stick a $12 shop light vertically 4 inches from it and... wow.

running scott; Sure that could work. You'd have to be very diligent because if you neglect it it will -without a doubt- clog up and cause a flood.
 
First time post on this site. So be gentle with me. I have used and hence experimented on ATS for about 3 years now. I used to use the brown algae turf as described on earlier models. What I have now is a large box with the top open and a double screen in that plexy box. I have two shop lights attached from the top that are plant grow lights (it seems it encourages GHA growth more). One main argument I saw here was if having submerged or having more air on the scrubber. Since I have a large area, some of it is submerged under about 1-2 inches of water and the later part in about 1/4 - 1/2 inch or water. I have a Mag 3 pump on my setup. The area that is more submerged under water does not make much GHA but rather brown algae. The area that has more atmospheric air exchange has a lot of GHA growing on it. Since my system grew more GHA on it, I have had no issues with Phosphates and my skimmer is not needing to work as hard. I think having some thin set of water passing over the turf is better. At least this is what I have observed by my system.
On another note: I have been fiddling with using a fulcrum method on my system. Meaning, when the water fills up the area, being on a fulcrum it just dumps the water into the sump. That way you have good water contact then air contact afterwards. Just an idea.
 
Welcome to RC Psyops!

The FATS I've seen actually do seem to start with a 'dry' screen and then are set up to sort of clog up and fill after they've gotten up to speed.
 
thanks Kcress

Some people have also used a timer to turn off the pump for about 30 seconds and then on for 30 seconds. I think that will work and will solve all the air and water issues. I don't seem to have an issue so I have not tried this. SantaMonica has made a lot of good advice on this topic at another site. He directed me to growing more GHA and that has helped trmendously. For whatever it's worth, I have a light bioload now.

Later
 
running scott: I have meddled with overflow. If you don't watch it everyday then you will have a problem. If I ever figure out how to post pics (not very computer savy) I will show you my setup. It fits on top of the sump and runs into the other side of the sump just before the return pump.

What SantaMonica has detailed is to setup the ATS on top of the tank and have it dump into the tank. That way you will get a lot of nutrients and pods dumping into the tank. That won't work for me but it seems to be the best way.

Later
 
Turning pumps on and off that fast is generally a bad idea. Motors aren't designed for that and often the bearing systems weren't designed with that in mind either.
 
kcress: hence why I have not tried it. Some people have tried it with good results. I guess they do make pumps that are more appropriately built for that purpose.

Later
 
You also have to analyze "good results". Too often it means "Look! It does just what I want." And leaves out the fact that the pump or motor only lasts a year instead of seven. :)
 
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