AlgaeFix Marine to control Hair Algae

I dose to a 265 plus the sump, and I have been adding 25mL every 3rd day to the location in the sump that is farthest from going into the display. On the 3rd dose today I bumped up to 30mL and will likely do that on the 4th and 5th dose as well.

I will retest nitrate and phosphate later today, but when I started it was zero for both.
 
jrw,
I'm glad to hear some else with a large system is dosing too.
Have you notice any die off?
Do you have any lps in the tank?
 
Ed&Sandy,

You may be the largest system that I have been following so far. To be honest, I have not been looking for this aspect of AlgaeFix dosing until now. ;)

FWIW, it would not surprise me if it were established that there is a maximum amount of AlgaeFix that should added to a larger system at one time.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

Jrw,

I will following your results with your size system as well. Please keep us posted. :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14839497#post14839497 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by edandsandy
jrw,
I'm glad to hear some else with a large system is dosing too.
Have you notice any die off?
Do you have any lps in the tank?
Click to expand...

No die off noticed yet, except for the green hair algae.

The only LPS is Euphyllia anchora and blastomussa merletti.

A few SPS, acros, montis, etc.

RBTA's doing fine, fish OK, zoanthids doing fine. In fact some things seem to be improving now that the hair algae is going away.

I have been brushing off the dead pieces and my skimmer has been skimming them out.
 
Cliff,
I will for sure keep all posted.

P.S. I'm a new member of WAMAS getting ready to move back. Noticed your avatar over there too.

My nitrates and phosphates tonight were zero as well. I must have some other nutrient fueling this growth that we are not testing for.
 
Jrw,

Welcome to WAMAS. :)

Even if you have a zero reading with the best test kits, there is always some available after you feed to keep algae growth going. Low nitrate and phosphate levels will help to control the algae growth. In some cases you may be fighting a cyanobacteria, which resemble many algae. In this case, the cyano can take up nutrients directly from food before it can be broken down and do not need nitrate & phosphate to survive.

Notice the resemblance of this cyanobacteria to many algae:

Marine-Hair-algae.jpg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14837535#post14837535 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by edandsandy
Our tank is 375g total volume (we used the RC calculator), we are dosing 37mls........
Click to expand...

Did you account for the water volume displaced by the LR? If not, you could be running into an overdose problem with the corals being affected.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14840697#post14840697 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by billsreef
Did you account for the water volume displaced by the LR? If not, you could be running into an overdose problem with the corals being affected.
Click to expand...

Hummmmmmmmmmmm,
I'm certain Ed accounted the LR and SB.......

If I am overdosing would the GHA be dyeing off faster, not growing?????

I'm so :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

We keep pulling the GHA out daily, hoping for the best here!
I will try and a top down photo today to show how bad it is in certain places.....
like the BOTTOM rock of the aquascaping, of course! :mad2:
I hope I don't have to remove the rocks and cook them!
I don't even know how to cook them!
 
This is the rock I'm talking about on the bottom of the aquascaping, and it has the most GHA

DSC_0513.jpg


DSC_0512.jpg


DSC_0515.jpg



this area had alot of die off, but now seems to be growing back

DSC_0510.jpg


DSC_0511.jpg


I know the glass is dirty :(
 
Does this stuff have plumose branching. I can't tell from the picture, but it is does have a course appearance. Is it a blue-green color or a regular green color?

Boomer has much more experience in IDing these pests than I do. Give me some insects to ID, I can deal with that much better. :D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14846237#post14846237 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by HighlandReefer
Does this stuff have plumose branching. I can't tell from the picture, but it is does have a course appearance. Is it a blue-green color or a regular green color?

Boomer has much more experience in IDing these pests than I do. Give me some insects to ID, I can deal with that much better. :D
Click to expand...

Cliff,
I'm sure about the plumose branching, I would say no..... the color is a dark green.
It is not course, when we pull it out of the tank it feels soft.
 
I just purchased a book at Boomer's suggestion. In most cases you will need to look at it under a scope to properly ID it, unless you are very familiar with it (which is not my case). As far as pictures go there are too many possibilities in this book that resemble your pest. If you are able to see the base attachment and it is a blue-green color, then in many cases it could be cyano. According to Boomer, many bubbles in the plant growth may indicate a cyano also. A general rule of thumb which does not apply in all cases is that cyano is blue-green in color and most true algae is green in color. :)
 
I'm interested in reading the book Boomer suggested to you.
I am able to see the base attachment and it is not blue-green in color. It is green.

I had just turned the pumps on, I am thinking that is where the bubbles came from. There is no bubbles on it on.

I wonder why Murphy is visiting my tank :(

I am seeing to much stress on the tank to continue dosing the 37mls... How much are you dosing?
Everyone seems to have had such good results using this product.

I will go back to the RC calculator and see if we measured something wrong.

I haven't seen my cocoa worm in 2 days. 1 of the starfish is finally moving and the other looks like it is hiding. :(


We are doing a 60 gallon water change out this week end, and Ed will be scrubbing the rocks with a stainless steel brush while I siphone out as much as I can of the GHA.



BTW, I just measured my NO3 and it is 0 and the PO4 is 0.......
I just replaced my filters on our RO/DI unit a few weeks ago and the TDS measures 0.
Oh, just to make sure I measured the RO/DI water for NO3 and it measures 0.

If you can think of anything else, please let us know.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14846952#post14846952 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by edandsandy
I will go back to the RC calculator and see if we measured something wrong.
Click to expand...

As a double check against the calculator, the formula is quite easy for a rectangular tank.

Length x Width x Height, than divide that number by 231, the answer will be in gallons. All measurements need to be made in inches, and of course must be the inside the tank measurements, with height being the height at the actual water level. After this calculation, you need to remember to deduct how many gallons your live rock and any overflow boxes take up to figure out how much water your tank actually holds.
 
Well guys i just got my algaefix marine today and dosed to a 90 gal tank+30 gal sump-rocks-corals-sand-equipment in sump-about 5 gal for backsiphon= 90 gal. so 10ml for the tank, i will keep you guys informed, every 3 days, wish me luck

Sana
 
I have been thinking about reducing the recommend amount for your system by 1/2, and applying that amount directly to the GHA.
What do you think????
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

L
Hair Algae - Help
Replies
8
Views
643
griss
griss
S
Low mag
Replies
12
Views
805
Scotty333!!!
S
Formulator
8 year old tank with 2.0 PO4 and zero Nitrate
Replies
7
Views
912
Scotty333!!!
S
A
Aquarium Temperature Control: How I Hacked My Air Conditioner to control my tanks temperatures
Replies
6
Views
264
Naso180
N
F
Invasive Algae in my tank
Replies
10
Views
537
Timfish
Timfish
Back
Top