I have done a couple water changes and 'm trying to figure something out. I use the API kh test and it will not change to yellow. To my thinking that means its way high? Or is my thinking backwards? You know when you start to overthink things you forget which way is right!!! lol
Alk ?
- Thread starter gman69
- Start date
Luke Schnabel
New member
I havnt used them for a long time. But it should change color. The starting color with one or two drops is the color you want to change from to a different color.
heathlindner25
New member
Are you using any buffer for ph?
kgeig001
New member
I would say, If you're dosing two part...stop.
If you're using a salt mix designed for a fully stocked reef tank like Reef Crystals, change to Instant Ocean for now. Reef Crystals is basically the same as Instant Ocean except it's higher in Calcium and Alk...then just let calcium and alk come down naturally.
Edit...I missed that you said that you use red sea coral pro. I would change to a salt mix that lower in Alk and calcium. RS coral pro has higher Alk, Cal and then alot of other salts.
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If you're using a salt mix designed for a fully stocked reef tank like Reef Crystals, change to Instant Ocean for now. Reef Crystals is basically the same as Instant Ocean except it's higher in Calcium and Alk...then just let calcium and alk come down naturally.
Edit...I missed that you said that you use red sea coral pro. I would change to a salt mix that lower in Alk and calcium. RS coral pro has higher Alk, Cal and then alot of other salts.
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Last edited:
bmitchell138
New member
I have the API test kit too. My alk runs 11 to 12 and calc around 480. All other params are good. I think I read on some other post here or an article that as long as both alk and calc are high you're ok. It's when there is a swing of one being low and the other high that can cause problems.
disc1
-RT * ln(k)
That stuff will definitely spike the alkalinity. Don't try to control pH with additives. It is always a recipe for disaster. pH in our tanks is driven by CO2 concentrations. If your pH is low and you want it higher then you need to get more fresh air to the tank.
Pigpen17
New member
I went through a similar thing. Not sure what happened. My ALK was always right around 8 naturally. I was trying to get it to be more like 9 or 10. I was having to test and dose about once every two weeks. No problems. Then one day the test would not change to yellow. Things went back to normal in a few days and I have not had it happen since. I had just switched salt brands and thought that might have been the thing. I went back to Reef Crystals and have never used the other brand again. In fact, I put the 5 gallon bucket of salt out in front of my house with a "FREE" sign.
Like I said, I don't really know what was the cause, but it was worrisome when it was going on.
Oh, and I don't test for PH. ALK only.
Like I said, I don't really know what was the cause, but it was worrisome when it was going on.
Oh, and I don't test for PH. ALK only.
Ron Reefman
Active member
I use API and have for years. I also have Salifert as a back up for a situation like yours. When I get a reading with the API kit that seems out of the ordinary for my systems, I double check my test with the API again and if it duplicates the first result I test with the Salifert kit. 99 times out of 100 the Salifert kit just confirms the API readings.
If I were you, I'd take the API kit to a fellow reefer or the LFS and compare your readings on their tank with their test kit (whatever they use). If they match up fairly close, then it's your aquarium that's off, not the test kit.
And stop chasing pH. It's a fools errand. I haven't tested for pH in 5 years now. It's like Ammonia and nitrite, good to test for in a new tank. But once things are stable, forget about it. Nitrates and phosphates, OK, but mostly only when I have issues. Ca, alk and Mg on a regular basis to make sure my dosers are doing their job and that coral growth hasn't raised the need for higher dosing levels. In my case, I test every 2 or 3 weeks, 4 if everything is running smoothly.
If I were you, I'd take the API kit to a fellow reefer or the LFS and compare your readings on their tank with their test kit (whatever they use). If they match up fairly close, then it's your aquarium that's off, not the test kit.
And stop chasing pH. It's a fools errand. I haven't tested for pH in 5 years now. It's like Ammonia and nitrite, good to test for in a new tank. But once things are stable, forget about it. Nitrates and phosphates, OK, but mostly only when I have issues. Ca, alk and Mg on a regular basis to make sure my dosers are doing their job and that coral growth hasn't raised the need for higher dosing levels. In my case, I test every 2 or 3 weeks, 4 if everything is running smoothly.
JammyBirch
Aquaria Engineering
The test kit might be fine but I went away from API, right from the beginning I had problems with the kit I got.
Alkalinity is an important metric you'll need accuracy or at least repeatability in your system. I now use the Hanna checker for Alkalinity, not only do I feel more confident in the reading it takes less that 1 minute to get a number.
I second the comment of checking the alk measurement with another test kit.
Alkalinity is an important metric you'll need accuracy or at least repeatability in your system. I now use the Hanna checker for Alkalinity, not only do I feel more confident in the reading it takes less that 1 minute to get a number.
I second the comment of checking the alk measurement with another test kit.
