Alkalinity nightmare!! What should i do??

cprice

New member
So I have now had my reef tank up for almost 8 months. Everything was going smoothly until about two months ago.

I was getting excellent color, growth, and polyp extension from all of my corals. My solenoid on my calcium reactor broke and caused the pH to drop in my calcium reactor, which in turn spiked both the alkalinity and calcium in the tank. I typically keep my alkalinity around 8.5 and it jumped up to 13. It was then that I started paying attention to all of my corals on a daily basis to keep an eye out for alkalinity burn, or any sort of tissue necrosis. It was during this time that I noticed I had AEFW (yay!).

I recently started a new job that only allows me one day a week to really work on the tank. After pulling all of my acro's out of my display and starting to treat them for Acker eating flatworm I was simultaneously letting the alkalinity drop in my system. Once everything got back to normal levels I reset my calcium reactor and started letting the tank do it's thing.

Over the last week I have started having entire colony is completely dissolved overnight and I'm waking up to new white skeletons every morning. I just checked my alkalinity, and it has again spiked to around 12.5. That means that my tank has gone from 8.5 to 13 back to 8.5 and now it's at 12.5 all in the span of about eight weeks. That along with the Bayer dipping for pests has no doubt stressed a lot of my coral to the max. At this point I'm so tempted to do a water change to start to get all of my parameters back under control but I'm afraid to yet again shock my system. I know that a lot of my corals can't take the higher alkalinity so I need to lower that first.

What would you guys suggest on here as A plan to start to get things back under control and prevent as much coral death as I can in the process. I'll note that I have several decent sized colonies that I would hate to lose such as Orange passion, ASD rainbow, RR Pink Floyd, etc. they have all seen the weather the storms thus far but I'm getting nervous that the Pink Floyd is about to go.


Here are a few shots of the tank as it currently sits. A lot of the coral is still in the garage frag tank waiting to be transferred back into the main display. The two systems are connected and share the same water and lighting schedule via radions.

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I'm worried that with the combination of alkalinity stress and bayer dips, I have done too much damage and may continue to lose colonies over the next few weeks until I have nothing left.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.






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Alkalinity nightmare!! What should i do??

Normal parameters that I shoot for are:

Salinity of 1.026, calcium 450, dKh 8.6, nitrate 5-10, phosphates .03. Temp fluctuates between 76.5 and 78 daily.


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I would do a small water change IF the salt is lower in ALK but most reef salts are very high in ALK.

Sorry this isn't any help but I once considered doing a Cal RX and even bought most of the rquipment. I dropped the idea when I realized all the points of possible failure with such a complicated system. My system is very very simple. I have a 32 gallon Brute filled with RO and kalk mixed. Via APEX my BRS 50ml/min pump adds the mix every half hour. No switches, valves, or probe controlling dosing. The same amount is added every half hour, every day without fail. My pH, ALK, Cal, and Salinity are rock solid! However I still test ALK every single day, EVERY DAY. You must. ALK is easily the most critical and sensitive parameter other than Temp there is.

Did you keep the same media in the reactor? You should replace it. Once pH gets too low and below a threshold the media is mush and will just fill your system will the ALK/Cal.


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CaRx is not for the faint hearted, but there are ways to make it much more reliable. For example, set the CO2 bubble rate so that it maintains the proper pH independent of the solenoid.

Otherwise do a few small water can ages over the next few days.
 
Alkalinity is at 12.5 dKH?

If I were you, I would stick to your regular water change schedule. I'm hoping you're doing something like 10-15% weekly? If the alkalinity of your salt mix is much lower than what your tank is currently sitting at, DON'T do a big water change to lower the alkalinity. Just do regular small water change for cleaning the tank, not for alkalinity corrections.

Second, I would crank back the calcium reactor by half until alkalinity lowers to 8.5 dKH where you want it. The reason for cutting in half rather than completely stopping addition is because you want alkalinity to lower SLOWLY.
 
Yeah I know that CaRx can be tricky but I was loving it for the first 6 months. The rate is set with the bubbles but my solenoid completely went whack and must have been half shut before or something. Once it went my bubble rate almost doubled.

I'm gonna get a peristaltic feed pump and a better regulator to help keep things more stable. I never considered swapping media but I probably will now.

My new SW mixes at 8.6 dKh so I'm gonna start more frequent water changes. I have a total water volume of 300g so a 15% water change is 45 gallons and a lot more work than I can usually accomplish weekly with my new job. I'm deciding if I should go to a softie tank until my hours get better.

Thanks for the help so far guys. Anything I can do to help mitigate all the STN that's happening or am I going to have to just deal with whatever happens happens


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Thanks for the help so far guys. Anything I can do to help mitigate all the STN that's happening or am I going to have to just deal with whatever happens happens

The damage is done. The storm is coming. :( The only things that I've found to help is to lower the lighting intensity, watch alk REALLY close (because consumption will probably go way down), and feed the fish a bit more to help give the corals nutrients to help deal with the stress.
 
You should try to measure KH with another test. A new one I mean, although it was the same brand.


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You should try to measure KH with another test. A new one I mean, although it was the same brand.


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I bought a new salifert kit yesterday thinking the same thing.


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Well it is the "S" as in Sudden tissue necrosis not slow haha


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Don't worry about dipping for aefw until your tank is stable and acros are healthy again. Aefw pray on weak coral and daily basting will be enough to keep them off the corals until everything has stabilized. I just wrote up my dipping process to eradicate aefw so I will post it for other or you to read if needed. I would do as stated above and raise your lights to help prevent all burn and keep any die off glued and any burned tips clipped. No need to let any bad bacteria spread to other acroporas and cause problems.
Buy a carbon doser for a regulator and a parisalitic pump like a masterflex to make things less risky. I won't run a reactor without these two products. Good luck!

How I get rid of an aefw infestation...

First make sure there are no acros encrusted onto any rock in the tank so aefw can't lay eggs and feed off it while your dipping, either putty over them or scrape them off if small enough. There is no need to qt, all acros can be dipped and put back into the display tank each week you dip.
Dip for 5 weeks or more depending on the infestation. Really 4 weeks should work if everything works perfect but the odds of that are slim. Most likley an egg will be missed which is laid after you start dipping. Do NOT skip any time between dips. In fact I like to dip every 6 days because I have found eggs after waiting 9 days between dips.
Dip every acro (mille are acros, stylos, monti, birdsnest pocci and such are not and don't need to be dipped) with a good dip. I used revive and melafix and switched each week. Melafix is the best, it's mild and easy to see what happens in the dip bucket. I forget the dosage but just check online. Bayer is too hard to use because of rinsing and visability but it works. You want to make sure the process is easy. When you dip every acro you also have to inspect every part of the corals and bases for acropora eating flatworm eggs. Most of the time they will be on the edge of the acro or on a dead part that's freshly eaten. Scrape them off or glue over any eggs you see. Do this after your dip in the rinse container. Aefw will also be easier to see after all this has happened. If they are still on the coral they will appear darker and especially when exposed to air for a bit.
When dipping make sure to shake every acro in the dip container to dislodge any aefw before you move it to a rinse bucket. Then give them a good shake in a bucket of fresh tank water. It's easiest to use a tank or bin big enough to dip everything in one shot and move them to another tank or trough to clean any dip at once as well. Shake them in the fresh tank water bin good to dislodge any flatworms that may have not been dislodged in the dip. It will also be easy to see in this tank. Let them all sit in this bin as long as it takes to inspect every acro and find any eggs leftover before you add any back to the tank. It is much easier to see any bite marks after a good dip, somehow they stand out more. Inspect anything with bitemarks vigorously.
Once this is complete, move everything back over to the display tank and try to keep them in the same placement as they were previously in order to not stress anything further.
Remember stress on acropora is what causes aefw to gain ground and breed. Healthy acros in a healthy tank can live with aefw for a long time without much intervention.
A bad infestation can be made easier to treat by basting every acro daily for four or five weeks before you start dipping. Getting the population down while your not dipping anything and letting as many eggs hatch as you can will leave less work for you when dipping later. Do this only if your fish will eat the dislodged flatworms. Not only wrasse will do this but almost any fish. Not feeding as much will help fish take to any floating aefw if your having trouble. Also try making food to get the fish excited before you baste. Feed the fish with a turkey baster by squirting the food in the water in small amounts so the fish have to come up to the baster and get used to it. Once they are used to it squirt a small amount of food into the water before you baste to get fish in the feeding mood.
 
You can use muratic acid to drop alk. It is safe as long as you really watch the tank PH and do it SLOWLY since it will create a bunch of CO2. You can also drop the water change water down to 3 or 4, drive off the CO2 and then change water. Other than the PH dropping, it is safe. Dosing it near the skimmer can help.

Gallons * dKh drop *.123 = the number of MLs of Muratic that you will need to get your alk down.
 
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