Alright NEWBIE, time for a Test

Nicchick,

Alkalinity is good to a point. Like all good things you can overdo it. If alkalinity climbs high enough there will be precipitation of calcium.

When talking about your tank one needs to understand that calcium, alkalinity and pH are all interrelated. Changes in one parameter will effect the other two.

A case where alkalinity is running in the range of 2-2.5 meq/l you are in a good range of alkalinity. Here a non-alkalinity increasing calcium additive like calcium chloride is preferred or you can use one of the so-called "balanced" additives.

No matter what you add you need to check all 3 parameters. With a tank running very high in alkalinity, like Silver had at 8 meq/l, you may dose calcium chloride and actually see both decline. Why, at the high alkalinity adding calcium simple creates a precipitate that removes both alkalinity and calcium from the system. In a case like this doing large water changes for a week or so is a better solution than using additives. The water is all screwed up, using a technical term :D, so replacing it is better than trying to adjust it. On the other hand, if alkalinity is running at the high end of normal, around 3.0 meq/l, then a non-carbonate additive like calcium chloride is in order. In a tank where alkalinity hovers between 1.5 and 2.5 meq/l and calcium levels are around 350-400 ppm then a balanced additive or lime water is the best solution.
 
Thanks for the info. I just started a 10 Gal Tank and i am still trying to get the water right. This thread has helped out alot.

Bill
 
What about the Mg titration? If not necessary when starting out, when should you want to check it? Also, why should you want to check it?
 
um wow.. thread was started 4 years ago.. and last reply was on halloween of '05

soo.. umm.. mhhauser321 ..

why? :p
 
It's because we had just discovered the four elements, from which all things are made, when I wrote this. :D

mhhauser,

Are you talking about distilled as a substitute for RO/DI? If you are, they are pretty much interchangable. Distilled is only slightly less pure than RO/DI so, unless you are determining elements at the part per trillion level, it's pure enough for test kit use.

Jer,

Magnesium is usually determined by calculation rather than direct titration. What one does is measure total hardness and then subtract the results you obtain for total calcium. The difference is mainly magnesium (TH-Ca=Mg) There are a few other elements that are picked up when measuring total hardness but their amounts are so tiny when compared to Mg that they only skew the answer by a small percentage.

How often do you test? Some people never check Mg levels and if you do regular water changes routine testing is probably not needed. If a tank has problems maintaining Ca level no matter what you do then a Mg test might be a good idea. The reason here is low Mg levels can reduce the solubility of Ca and cause Ca to precipitate at fairly low levels.


If you do want determine Mg I'll be glad to show you the math involved as it is a little more complex than the word equation I gave above.
 
thanks for the info water keeper
we have a 150 in a small apartment the high version. my ph stays around 7.9-8 unless i double up on the kalk.
however when i open up a window things change. unfortunatlely having a window open is not always a option.
i have a canopy with the back open its a tall one about 16 inches so that helps.

the magnesium formula is neat as well

i test with salifer and my testing is round 10.1 according to them a little high i think . i thought natural seawater was around 8

so how would that work out with my calcium around 440-450 ppm?

i have a magnesium test kit that registers around 1210 ppm (salifert)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9397457#post9397457 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by markandkristen
i test with salifer and my testing is round 10.1 according to them a little high i think . i thought natural seawater was around 8

so how would that work out with my calcium around 440-450 ppm?

i have a magnesium test kit that registers around 1210 ppm (salifert)

I'm not sure what you are indicating reads 10.1? If that is your alkalinity then you are still in an acceptable range.

Your Calcium is fine and the Magnesium is a tiny bit low but I wouldn't get too concern over that.

Here is a good article On the relationship of Ca, Mg, TA and pH

and here is Randy's article on On Mg supplements
 
if you have time water keeper can you give us a example of how we would find the mg reading from the kh being 10.1
and calcium 450? by using that formula
 
I think I was a little mis-leading in by post above. You don't use total alkalinity but total hardness. They are related but not the same. I will use ppm rather than dKH to simplify the math. Typical SW alkalinity is around 125 ppm as CaCO<sub>3</sub>. Total Hardness is a little over 6200 ppm as CaCO<sub>3</sub>. Quite a difference.

Why? Well, Total Alk is a measure basically of only the carbonate/bicarbonate portion of the Magnesium and Calcium in the tank. Total hardness is a measure of Mg and Ca no matter what they are combined with. Not only does it measure carbonates and bicarbonates but chlorides, sulfates, nitrates, phosphates, etc. Since the TA test is very limited and the TH test is very broad in what it indicates the two are very different.

Now if we measure Total Hardness and get a value of 6050 ppm as CaCO<sub>3</sub> and we test for Calcium and get a value of 425 ppm Ca as Ca we first change the Ca as Ca to Ca as CaCO<sub>3</sub>. To do this one multiplies the Ca as Ca by 2.5 which gives us 1062.5 ppm of Ca as CaCO<sub>3</sub>. Next subtract that value from the 6050 ppm of Total hardness--6050-1062.5= 4987.5 ppm Mg as CaCO<sub>3</sub>. Finally we covert that to Mg as Mg by dividing 4987.7 by 4.12= 1210.6 ppm Mg as Mg. About the same as you got with the Salifert kit.

So now is everyone totally confused? :D Read Randy's articles that I posted links to above and it may help clear things up.
 
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