Aluminum Canopy up and running - Pics

DarG

New member
Finally finished this week long project. An all aluminum HQI + T5 + Moonlight canopy. I'm using 4 X T5's 48" under Ice Cap SLR reflectors. 2 X 250 watt HQI halides and 16 LED moonlights, 8 blue and 8 white. I had a few specific goals in mind. One was to optimize the T5 and Halide lighting as best as possible while using a single canopy for both. I wanted both the HQI and T5 to be within the specified distances from the water, something that most pre-built combo canopies don't seem to do very well. They generally place the T5 bulbs and Halide reflectors at the same distance from the water. With the relatively tiny halide reflectors that most of the combos use, this places the Halide bulbs only in the neighborhood of 2 inches or so higher than the T5's. So if the T5's are placed at the best distance, the Halides are often too low to the water. Raise the fixture to optmize the halide distance and the T5's are too high. So, I built the canopy so that the Bottom of the halide bulbs are about 4.5" above the T5's. When the T5's are positioned at 4" or 5", my halides are also within their optimum distance, around 9" above the water.
Another goal was to have one self contained unit with everything inside the canopy. I have the ballasts for the flourescents as well as the halides built in the canopy.
Weight was an issue and aluminum is lighter than wood. I wanted the canopy to be managable for maintenance.
The aluminum should also be very durable.
Cooling was also an issue and I built the "tunnel" area that houses the ballasts and wiring larger than I needed too. I have one fan installed but I wanted plenty of area for air flow inside the tunnel. I can add a clip on fan and get plenty of air flow through the canopy if need be.

I'm using two 250 watt ARO E-ballasts for the halides and two Advance e-ballasts for the T5's. Right now I'm using Reefliuz 10000K DE bulbs. The T5's are 2X ATI Blue Plus and 2X UVL Super actinics. I'm using Ice Cap SLR reflectors for the T5's. The Halide reflectors are the DE retros that several online vendors sell. These aren't Lumenarcs or anything like that. They are still on the small side comparitively but they throw a good deal of light. A signifigant upgrade from the reflectors in the Outer Orbit and some of the other budget combo fixtures. An excellent compromise for what I was aiming to do with this canopy.


wiringprogress.jpg


The frame of the canopy. Ballasts are installed and wiring is in progress.

LEDPanellit.jpg


One of the two LED panels. Cut out for the bottom of the halide reflector. These just slide in on aluminum U channel attached to the frame. The glass shields for the halide reflectors protrude through the cutouts and I can change bulbs without taking the canopy down or apart.

wiringendcaps.jpg


Bottom of the canopy. Shows the endcaps installed and wired up. I used the clips for the SLR reflectors rather than mounting them.

wiringupright.jpg


Wiring is complete except for the LED's. I used the Current USA LED modules. They just plug together. They are mounted on the back side of the panels by using a piece of threaded alumium flat bar. Made a template and drilled out holes for the LED's through the aluminum sheet with a uni-bit.

Canopywhole.jpg


I forgot to take a picture of the completed canopy prior to hanging it. But, the covers are just two sheets of thin aluminum sheet screwed to the frame. The frame is threaded and attached with mahine screws. So the alumium cover panels are easily removed to access the ballasts and wiring. Fan is mounted up top on the back side. I just drilled holes in a circular pattern with the uni-bit to vent the fan.

insidetunnel.jpg


Heres a shot down one side of the "tunnel". You can see one of the ARO Halide ballasts and one of the Advance T5 ballasts. Alot of open area. It will vent very well just using a clip on fan if the single fan up top isnt enough cooling (which it seems to be).

overtank.jpg


Shot of the canopy hanging over the tank. The canopy is large. The tank is a build in so the canopy is not seen. I hung it by modifying an Outer Orbit hanging kit a little bit. It's easily adjustable for height with that wire hanging system so tank maintanence is a breeze. I just adjust the canopy up and have more than ample clearance to work in the tank.
 
You did a nice job. Congratulations on a finished project.

I just ordered (2) T5s to go along with my ROIII for my inwall 75. I will be upgrading my aluminum light bar soon as well.
 
DarG,

Incredible looking canopy. I have one small suggestion that could be important to others that may be tempted to attempt this build.
Any area that you attach a copper ground wire to the aluninum frame should be coated with a di-electric coating to prevent dis-simmilar metals from corroding and causing a poor ground. Without this you could be looking at intermittent starting isues down the road.
Also all conection should be water tight to prevent shocking possibilites.
If this was mentioned in the first thread, I'm sorry I missed it.

Again a true work of art.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10070469#post10070469 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ITGUY
DarG,

Incredible looking canopy. I have one small suggestion that could be important to others that may be tempted to attempt this build.
Any area that you attach a copper ground wire to the aluninum frame should be coated with a di-electric coating to prevent dis-simmilar metals from corroding and causing a poor ground. Without this you could be looking at intermittent starting isues down the road.
Also all conection should be water tight to prevent shocking possibilites.
If this was mentioned in the first thread, I'm sorry I missed it.

Again a true work of art.

You are absolutely right and unfortunately I didn't have any more di-electric grease. However, all cooper to aluminum grounds are accessible from the ends of the canopy so I can actually remedy that without taking the canopy down or apart.
As far as waterproofing, I considered soldering and heat shrinking all connections but went with wire nuts instead. And I did not use the water resistant wire nuts either. However, all of those connections are tucked away far enough inside the canopy that there is no danger of water splash or salt spray. Outside of the canopy falling into the tank, which is no more risk here than any other hanging fixture, I didn't and don't forsee any problems with the connections and water/salt. I also have GFI protection on all aquarium electrical connections.

Excellent points however, and I appreciate the input. I too come from a tech related career that also involved some electrical work and appreciate the potential issues you mention. Thanks.

Thanks everyone for taking a look and giving your nod of approval and / or input.
 
bean likes galvanic reactions between disimilar metals... bean like it best when previous homeowner uses iron nails to secure copper water pipes. Bean would like to beat previous homeowner with lead pipe.

bean likes bare electrical splices with no protection... bean like it best when previous homeowner uses bare splices in finished walls to connect BX to romex. bean would like to whip previous homeowner with live BX cable.

:D
 
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