Ammonia Spike .5
- Thread starter iClown
- Start date
Ok I misread haha. It's .25 in ammonia NOT .5. The only fish that is a bit strange is my male dwarf angel. Others are normal and eating. Male angel lost its appetite currently. However, compared to a few hrs ago he is now actually out and swimming when he was hiding only earlier. Although, still not as active.
brandon429
Well-known member
I need to use this thread as a link in several other threads where we test the ability to make predictions that are accurate with very little info.
The test kit is an API test kit and the tank has no ammonia.
the fish behavior is incidental. The only way to have true ammonia in your tank as indicated would be 1. a large dead fish unaccounted for 2 recent antibiotic application 3. unreasonably large pockets of waste accumulation which everyone knows not to allow
The test kit is an API test kit and the tank has no ammonia.
the fish behavior is incidental. The only way to have true ammonia in your tank as indicated would be 1. a large dead fish unaccounted for 2 recent antibiotic application 3. unreasonably large pockets of waste accumulation which everyone knows not to allow
brandon429
Well-known member
This is a classic example of API causing undue activity in a marine aquarium. if this isnt api Im hide for a while lol. oh its API fo sho
the point of my banter is that API test kits are notoriously inaccurate and cause us undue headaches when in fact there is no ammonia in cycled tanks without the three qualifiers above. Im watching an incident right now in the chem forum where someones incoming tank water might be so polluted as to inject raw ammonia into their tank, so I guess a one in a million ghost input option #4 would be poisoned source water from neglect of water filtration unit or living in an area with that as a known contaminant. none of my groundwater in texas has that, thank goodness. we also go a long time without changing ro/di membranes and media, still no ammonia. there is bad luck out there though.
the point of my banter is that API test kits are notoriously inaccurate and cause us undue headaches when in fact there is no ammonia in cycled tanks without the three qualifiers above. Im watching an incident right now in the chem forum where someones incoming tank water might be so polluted as to inject raw ammonia into their tank, so I guess a one in a million ghost input option #4 would be poisoned source water from neglect of water filtration unit or living in an area with that as a known contaminant. none of my groundwater in texas has that, thank goodness. we also go a long time without changing ro/di membranes and media, still no ammonia. there is bad luck out there though.
briankmarsh1980
I'm a member of **!!!!!!
You should never have ammonia after a cycle. ANY amount of ammonia is bad for fish .25 can kill fish
you should do a water change if you have ammonia. its been awhile but I think prime will mess with your tests now.
you should do a water change if you have ammonia. its been awhile but I think prime will mess with your tests now.
brandon429
Well-known member
Its ok. Now for test two if you would
Run a nitrite test we can kill another bird here. Api nitrite tests happen to be thrown off by prime dosing would you test real quick
Either outcome is fine, a little extra prime is ok just curious if nitrite will misread
Run a nitrite test we can kill another bird here. Api nitrite tests happen to be thrown off by prime dosing would you test real quick
Either outcome is fine, a little extra prime is ok just curious if nitrite will misread
brandon429
Well-known member
Good deal looks ok thanks for the follow up I saved this thread in my blog to link for others
B
B
brandon429
Well-known member
Also, can you post a full tank picture those are actually more helpful than any test kit for talking about reasons there is or isn't ammonia. You can tell off a single full tank shot and an accounting of all the fish.
I do feel something is off though. My male angel is not being himself today. He always wants to get freaky at this time of day and be changing colors and swimming all over the place. But, few minutes ago the female seems to want to spawn and heads half way up the tank (she usually stays on the bottom 1/4th of the 30" tall tank) as if waiting for the male. The male comes out and follows her up but bails bout 3/4 the way up to the top of the tank leaving the female hanging alone up there. It's almost as if he's saying, "Sorry, but I still have a hang over and feel shitty a** ****."
I can post pic but unfortunately Comcast is a pain and I'm still trying to get my services going. It's been over a month with me calling them frequently reminding them to do their job. Very long story and an ongoing story. Another words, I'm on my AT&T data and would rather not upload pics or video as I'm already over my plan
. Which is why I only come on every now and then.
. Which is why I only come on every now and then.
brandon429
Well-known member
Ha lol. Well i know its ok to run a polyfilter pad multi resin to catch anything we may be missing. Big ole water change can't hurt. Those are my go to export methods since they don't harm just in case nothing was wrong.
brandon429
Well-known member
no the whole point is that .25 is the lowest they read, so, they lie. the API tests. terrible 
makes us take unneeded action awaiting a zero reading that will never come. you already had zero ammonia long ago
the prime was never needed but harmless to use if you like. search reefcentral and nano-reef.com to see others results: "API reads .25 always?"
heres one
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2287316
nano-reef
http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/326719-ammonia-help-read/
one of the keepers here likes his API and says no problem. I imagine most of the problem is color referencing.
Im starting to collect these threads in myblog. after I build up 200 or so I plan on making a writeup and asking the company to comment. there is only one time that API test kits for reef tank ammonia are helpful. Thats when they turn solid green to indicate a loss of something huge like a fish. For low level readings, you should be relying on predictive biology regarding in-tank generation...for outside sources like sourcewater concerns, use a different test kit to monitor your filters.
I barely started collecting these threads but my post history would show about 2 years worth engaging and over 200 times easily. thats not even counting nano-reef.com, add another 200 there.
hunting these threads down is kinda fun. Nearly any thread in here that mentions an ammonia problem is using API and therefore has no way to know if they have a problem. eventually someone is going to shoot down my API prediction with "sorry, salifert" then what will we do lol
I used the analogy the other day that using API ammonia test kits for marine tanks is like using a antenna rod as a dipstick in your car and trying to make a reading off having "some" on the rod.
makes us take unneeded action awaiting a zero reading that will never come. you already had zero ammonia long agothe prime was never needed but harmless to use if you like. search reefcentral and nano-reef.com to see others results: "API reads .25 always?"
heres one
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2287316
nano-reef
http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/326719-ammonia-help-read/
one of the keepers here likes his API and says no problem. I imagine most of the problem is color referencing.
Im starting to collect these threads in myblog. after I build up 200 or so I plan on making a writeup and asking the company to comment. there is only one time that API test kits for reef tank ammonia are helpful. Thats when they turn solid green to indicate a loss of something huge like a fish. For low level readings, you should be relying on predictive biology regarding in-tank generation...for outside sources like sourcewater concerns, use a different test kit to monitor your filters.
I barely started collecting these threads but my post history would show about 2 years worth engaging and over 200 times easily. thats not even counting nano-reef.com, add another 200 there.
hunting these threads down is kinda fun. Nearly any thread in here that mentions an ammonia problem is using API and therefore has no way to know if they have a problem. eventually someone is going to shoot down my API prediction with "sorry, salifert" then what will we do lol
I used the analogy the other day that using API ammonia test kits for marine tanks is like using a antenna rod as a dipstick in your car and trying to make a reading off having "some" on the rod.
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went to the lfs and they used this: http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-EasyStrips-Ammonia-Test-Strips/dp/B0053PQUTW to test my sample of water. Their results says:
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrates: 0
PH: 8.1
Salinity: 1.020
I tested .25 yesterday. I dosed a cap of prime last night (5mL). Today, after coming back from the lfs I tested again with my API test kit and it resulted in .25.
My male flameback angel died a few days ago due to dropsy. If I did have ammonia wouldn't my pistol or goby be the first to go and not the dwarf?
My tank has had ammonia for 8 days now according to the API test kit and if it TRULY did have ammonia shouldn't all my fish and pistol shrimp be dead? I know you said API is false but I'm just wandering why my male dwarf developed dropsy.
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrates: 0
PH: 8.1
Salinity: 1.020
I tested .25 yesterday. I dosed a cap of prime last night (5mL). Today, after coming back from the lfs I tested again with my API test kit and it resulted in .25.
My male flameback angel died a few days ago due to dropsy. If I did have ammonia wouldn't my pistol or goby be the first to go and not the dwarf?
My tank has had ammonia for 8 days now according to the API test kit and if it TRULY did have ammonia shouldn't all my fish and pistol shrimp be dead? I know you said API is false but I'm just wandering why my male dwarf developed dropsy.
Thanks!
