and the setup begins!!
- Thread starter TANK0789
- Start date
ok im back so i ran into a small problem and found the sticker at the bottom that says tempered glass do not drill... so i asked around to find out if it just the bottom or all the glass... no one knows... :-/ but alot of people are saying that its only the bottom when it says that. when all sides are tempered they say it says all glass tempered or somthing along that line. so people have been telling me they drill the sides when it says that and they have drilled alot when it says that so i am also going to still drill the tank. i have decided to drill it dead center on the back. why becuase its more convienient my opening to go to my sump is straight down. so thats what i am planing to do today is finally drill. hopefully it dont shatter into a million pieces becuase then i wont have a tank.. ever.. but one question if all this goes well. i have around 200lbs of live rock i am going to buy it has been in the guys tank for a while so its cured. how long should cycle my tank with this cured live rock? just till all my tests are good?
timschmidt
Premium Member
Cycle until tests come out good.
On the drilling though. Most people have the holes higher up for any drains to a sump, reason being is during a power outtage the water level in your tank will drop to the level of you lowest drain. You may want to consider having you drain up higher. Most of the holes you see lower than that are part of a closed loop and a power outtage will not affect them in any way (other than no water movement).
You can always contact the tank manufacturer instead of buying polarized glasses (a lot cheaper and easier too).
On the drilling though. Most people have the holes higher up for any drains to a sump, reason being is during a power outtage the water level in your tank will drop to the level of you lowest drain. You may want to consider having you drain up higher. Most of the holes you see lower than that are part of a closed loop and a power outtage will not affect them in any way (other than no water movement).
You can always contact the tank manufacturer instead of buying polarized glasses (a lot cheaper and easier too).
timschmidt
Premium Member
I'm not to best person to give you the bare minmums but I have friends with 4 T5 bulbs and they are at 54 watts each and they can house most corals fine (the higher demanding SPS have to go near the top though).
timschmidt
Premium Member
? meh. Oh well, sorry. I tried but I can't find anything. Maybe ask the question on another thread about equipment. Maybe someone is familiar with that manufacturer.
Ok I just got through all the post and can say I was in your exact spot about 4 years ago.... I'm not trying to tell ya what to do but please remember to take it slow or as slow as you can... I'm sure everyone that is giving you advice has been through just as much as me. When you are drillin the tank you know that you should have water on the spot 24/7 right? also make sure you put a towel in the tank where the glass that you cut out will fall.. trust me I watched a guy drill a 180 got all the way through it and the little piece fell and cracked the whole tank lol! All I can say is take it easy or you will learn that you will loose alot of money for unessary reasons
Everyones Hero
New member
I'd use duct tape. Cut a few strips & put them side by side to make them wider. Then make a little sack to put around where you're cutting. Basically becomes a sticky bag.
As the glass shavings fall they'll fall into the sack & get stuck vs fall all over the tank.
I did that when I drilled the oil pan on my car. Kept the metal shavings from going into the baffles & made cleanup a lot easier.
As the glass shavings fall they'll fall into the sack & get stuck vs fall all over the tank.
I did that when I drilled the oil pan on my car. Kept the metal shavings from going into the baffles & made cleanup a lot easier.
Everyones Hero
New member
The green just means there's a higher iron content in the glass.
