Anemone and Clowns ID

M

Marco Fernandes

New member
Hi,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JgDLDEygBL8


I need some help with the ID of my anemone and clowns:

I think i bought a Hecteractis Crispa but not sure. If yes, do you think she seems in good health? She eats well but sometimes after the nigth early in the morning gets almost all closed.

About the clowns: they are paired already as you can see, and the female percula seems to be about to be ready for spawn. My doubt is the male one, i bought it as a A. Ocellaris but im not sure if it is realy, can he be a Orange Percula? Please Help.

Thanks and sory some typing mistakes.
 
I'm not great at IDing anemones. It does look like a crispa to me though. I am confident that is an ocellaris clown.

Also, percula and ocellaris clowns can spawn together. So don't be surprised if you see eggs one day.
 
Its a White one, and in the back part of the "mushroom" seems leather with some litle poinst.

The LFS man said sold me as a Hecteractis Crispa but i wanted to be sure. Is the colour ok? cause i see some in fotos that are green etc. Sometimes we can see well some pink/purple points in the ending/eye of each tentacle.
 
The more orange one is definitely an Ocellaris.

I would say that the anemone is a Sebae, which as your LFS noted is a Hecteractis crispa. It does not look in great shape, but perhaps that's just the camera. Sebaes aren't really supposed to deflate.How is your lighting? They have stronger lighting needs than your average BTA.
 
zeeter said:
The more orange one is definitely an Ocellaris.

I would say that the anemone is a Sebae, which as your LFS noted is a Hecteractis crispa. It does not look in great shape, but perhaps that's just the camera. Sebaes aren't really supposed to deflate.How is your lighting? They have stronger lighting needs than your average BTA.
Click to expand...

Hmm, thanks, im tending to think that the problems of the anemone is realy a light prob. Im actualy running in 3x t5 39w, 2x10k+1x14k, but im receiving a 6x39w t5 this week so it may be enough then.

TY
 
White is never a healthy color for a H. Crispa. Clean water, good light, and regular feeding should bring it back. It will turn dirty brown/tan then get a different tint, like purple or green, after that.
 
They recover well, though, if they have purple on the tips. I had one that was almost completely white except the tips that recovered quite nicely.
 
Marco Fernandes said:
Took you a lot of time? Wich lightining do you have? is 6x39Wts T5 enough?
Click to expand...

As a matter of fact, I put it in a 29gl tank I was using for breeding, bare bottom, canister filter. 30" T5 lighting (not HO). I think the difference was that two maroon clowns were hosting on it. Plus I put it up as high in the tank as I could. It began to look healthier in around a week and was probably completely healthy in around a month.
 
Nice, mine has about 2 month in my 55 G and improved just a litle since i introduce her. Today at lunch was in realy bad shape, almost closed and leaking some mouth fluid.

My water parametrs seem right, Amoni 0, Nitrite 0,05, Nitrate 10-20 ppm, phosfate 0, Calcium 370, PH 7,80-8,00, temp 80-82 F, KH 9..

maybe she is not yet full adapted. She eats well every time in give her some crushed table shrimp, so don´t know wtahs the matter ?
 
Another factor with mine was that I had taken some very mature live rock from my main display tank and put it into the 29. It could be that while the DT wasn't mature enough yet, the rock had more than enough bacteria on it to handle a 29 gl tank with a low-bioload. I also had a K2 in there which is overkill for a 29, but could have benefited the sebae.
 
Well, yesterday received a new set of ligths 6 x 39 T5 ( 3 white, 2 blue, 1 purple ), lets now see how the H. Crispa goes along. I hope she recovers well now that she has enough light.

She still contracts in the night, do you think that is the PH that could be doing that? In the morning it drops to 7,88? or is it something else?
Sometimes she doesn´t close so much, and it´s ok in the morning, other days it closes more, and more rarely she almost closes 100%. Don´t know whats causing it...
 
Well, the anemone seems to be receiving the new set of t5 lights well, cause shes not so withish, and seems to be geting some light brown. Ill try to post a video or picture later.

Im thinking of taking out all of my substracte and make a bare bottom aqua, do you think its Ok for the sebae anemone? Or she will die without any substracte?

ty
 
Not sure about the Anemone, but I would say it a Hecteractis Crispa. The female clown is definitely a Percula and the male clown is definintely an Ocellaris.
 
zeeter said:
Another factor with mine was that I had taken some very mature live rock from my main display tank and put it into the 29. It could be that while the DT wasn't mature enough yet, the rock had more than enough bacteria on it to handle a 29 gl tank with a low-bioload. I also had a K2 in there which is overkill for a 29, but could have benefited the sebae.
Click to expand...

I had a k2 in my 30" 29g tank. Then I bought a vortech. 600gph isn't overkill. It's recommended to have at least 20x tank turnover for water movement and a k2 gives a 29 that.
 
Hi guys,

Just to post a video of my aqua where you can see the improvment on the health of my hectercatis crispa, dont you think she´s looking healthy now?

Went from white to a brown and expanded, with the polips going violet.

Any coments are welcome. The sebae doesnt looked worried about the fact of going on a bare bottom.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HEECri9cEig
 
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