Another contender in the LED market...

LED's don't always have 180° degrees lenses on the led itself... i have used 45° LED's before to shoot a beam directly down... why can't they just use those..? instead of another projector style beam...? they use optics on cree bulbs to amplify the beam of light... right..? but they're doing it on 1W bulbs... it's bad enough that they aren't very strong bulbs, but i guess they're doing it to keep cost down on the fixture itself... i went to bell birdfarm today and he quoted me a great price for them... way cheaper than the website...




btw... when are they going to start putting out organic led fixtures...?


All LEDs emit light in a 180 degree hemisphere. What do you think focused that beam to 45 degrees? A lens. On this fixture, there is an individual reflector for each 60 degree LED.

What is your hang up with 1w LEDs? They offer more lumens - by a lot - per watt than 3w. 800 PAR at 24" depth. 112 watts. That is one 48" VHO (which will put out under 200 PAR with the sensor touching the bulb and has a much more rapid attenuation with depth)...
 
i dunno...

light_leds.jpg
 
the "lens" shape is molded into the diode itself on the top one.. It just doesnt disperse the light in a 180deg pattern like the lower hemispherical ended diode..
 
the "lens" shape is molded into the diode itself on the top one.. It just doesnt disperse the light in a 180deg pattern like the lower hemispherical ended diode..

ORLY!?!?!?!?!?... i did not noe that...


Yeah, see those clear globs? Those aren't the LED. See that little metal band? There she is...

that's the diode and the cathode... the entire unit is called light emitting diode.... if the led is throwing a 180° of light, there is still going to be some light wasted in the second optic lense...


i have played with LED's before... i know there are some 180°, 90° and 45° degree led's... why can't cree's just come with the molded lense...?

reverse engineering like whoa...
 
Nope. The anode and the cathode are the wires leading up to the light emitting diode. The plastic is an epoxy lens to protect the extremely small and extremely sensitive material and alignment of the semiconductor.
 
No heatsink :/

The LEDs are definitely attached to something, which is an aluminum heatsink. Just because it doesn't have fins doesn't mean it isn't a heatsink. Whether or not it is enough mass and surface area to handle the heat is to be seen, but they are only 1w...
 
As far as the disco thing, it does it, just like all LEDs. I am not sure how I feel about it as I have yet to look at it for very long. I do like the ~480nm blues though, as they really make all the florescent proteins pop.

Why are lenses a bad thing? They put the light where you want it. LEDs light a 180 degree hemisphere. You need optics to make them useful.


Not all LED fixtures have the same amount of disco effect. The disco effect is increased when blue and white LED's are placed farther apart from each other. Or when narrower angle lenses are used. Same principle. I don't think lenses are bad. They definitely do a god job at focusing the light emitted from LED's but they can also increase the disco effect and decrease the area of illumination. Also you get more hotspots when you use lenses or narrow angle lenses. LED fixtures without lenses spread out the light more evenly thus less hotspots and less disco effect.

The disco effect on LED's is the main thing that bothers me. Although I have seen some that barely have it at all like the acan lights. I can't even notice any with those lights and I am quite picky about it. Those lights use lenses to but they seem to be wider angle lenses.

Also you do not need lenses to make the LED's useful. There are LED fixtures that do not uses lenses but still work very well like the Evolution LED fixtures. (when I say lenses I mean the fittings that go over the LED's not the plastic encasing).

Anyway I like the housing for the ecoray but I really did not like the light it produced when I saw it at the lfs. I know how bright it looks isn't a good indication of effectiveness but if something is very dim it is very unlikely for it to have good par. It could be that the one they had was put on a controller to dim it though or maybe it was lemon. I would like to see yours on a reef as a comparison.
 
Not all LED fixtures have the same amount of disco effect. The disco effect is increased when blue and white LED's are placed farther apart from each other. Or when narrower angle lenses are used. Same principle. I don't think lenses are bad. They definitely do a god job at focusing the light emitted from LED's but they can also increase the disco effect and decrease the area of illumination. Also you get more hotspots when you use lenses or narrow angle lenses. LED fixtures without lenses spread out the light more evenly thus less hotspots and less disco effect.

The disco effect on LED's is the main thing that bothers me. Although I have seen some that barely have it at all like the acan lights. I can't even notice any with those lights and I am quite picky about it. Those lights use lenses to but they seem to be wider angle lenses.

Also you do not need lenses to make the LED's useful. There are LED fixtures that do not uses lenses but still work very well like the Evolution LED fixtures. (when I say lenses I mean the fittings that go over the LED's not the plastic encasing).

Anyway I like the housing for the ecoray but I really did not like the light it produced when I saw it at the lfs. I know how bright it looks isn't a good indication of effectiveness but if something is very dim it is very unlikely for it to have good par. It could be that the one they had was put on a controller to dim it though or maybe it was lemon. I would like to see yours on a reef as a comparison.

Once again, I am not pitching these. I think they are oddly sized and overpowered such that they have very limited applications.

I have some diffuser lenses that someone gave me that have a meshwork texture on the lens, similar to starboard for florescent lights. They are the only LEDs I have seen that don't disco out considerably, and I think this fixture would benefit immensely from them.

Here is a pic of the diffuser lenses:
d75a75be.jpg


What I think I will do is use this as a workhorse light rather than a display light. 800 par might make for some crazy coloration on SPS that can handle it.
 
those leds modules are from PFO's solaris fixture.... they had heat sink issues and were prone to burning out a single led, so rather then replace a module of 30 led's, or unsoldering one led in the module, they created modules that were replacable...

they folded under pressure from a rogue 'inventor' who apparently patented LED light source and they threatened PFO and other companies from marketing something they said they were going to release, but never did...
 
Oh, the strips blow. I have like, six or seven with random LEDs out on them, and they cannot be removed and replaced. I was merely trying to show their much-superior diffuser lenses.
 
r the insides of the reflectors shiny?? i would imagine that those reflectors arent very efficient as they are only catching the portion of the 180 degree light that is being emitted...
 
I bought one of the 60D to test out on my tank. (300 Gallon)

Definitely not much spread, my tank is 8'x2' and its going to take 7-8 of them to do the job. (of the 60D's)

However, compared to the brightness on the corals/liverock etc etc, the LED's are much brighter than my 250W DE Pheonix 14k that was there. The blue lights are pretty damn cool, my dual vho's can't touch it.

Big con so far is needing so many to cover the tank, the new 112's wont really work for me since they are only 11.5" and the coverage on a 24" wide tank is going to be lacking. Too bad they wouldn't make something like 22x22 but oh well.

Just going to run the one for now to see how my few corals and acans do before buying 2000 in LEDS. Love the no heat aspect too, these halides and ballast sure heat stuff up.
 
I ran some tests today with the 112 at 5' water depth. Par values were from 150-250+ within the recommended spread. Needless to say, it was very impressive. A 400w can barely create those values at 5' at four times the wattage.

Again, the spread was limited, and shadowing is created as a result. In a shallower tank, the effect would be much less prominent, but at 5', it needs to run with another source of light (MH most likely) to smooth things out, but not necessarily to add to the PAR values. That's just an added bonus.
 
I bought one of the 60D to test out on my tank. (300 Gallon)

Definitely not much spread, my tank is 8'x2' and its going to take 7-8 of them to do the job. (of the 60D's)

However, compared to the brightness on the corals/liverock etc etc, the LED's are much brighter than my 250W DE Pheonix 14k that was there. The blue lights are pretty damn cool, my dual vho's can't touch it.

Big con so far is needing so many to cover the tank, the new 112's wont really work for me since they are only 11.5" and the coverage on a 24" wide tank is going to be lacking. Too bad they wouldn't make something like 22x22 but oh well.

Just going to run the one for now to see how my few corals and acans do before buying 2000 in LEDS. Love the no heat aspect too, these halides and ballast sure heat stuff up.

The 112s cover 24" x 18", so you could get 5 and run them front to back rather than horizontal to the tank. Would probably be cheaper and cleaner than 8 of the 60s.
 
Back
Top