Another Custom Stand Construction Thread- 120 Gal.

I then used solid maple and decorative trim to wrap the columns at the top and bottom. I used this same trim to hide all of the screw holes in the face frames.

All of the joints are mitered (45 degrees) and everything is attached using wood glue and brad nails.

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Here is a picture of the stand with the tank on it- for the first time! Trust me, I measured about 100 times before getting this far. You can see a small block of wood on top of the right column. Solid Maple trim will be applied around the entire top that will hide the black tank frame.

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Here is a close up of the block I was referring to

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Some floor supports were added before 3/4" birch plywood floor was nailed in.

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Finally, construction phase is complete. I now have to order raised panel doors for the front and each end.

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Here is a detailed shot of the trim work on top. It is made of solid maple and the front edge has an ogee design routed for a decorative touch. This trim work completetly hides the black tank frame.

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Now for the fun part- sanding, sanding again, then more sanding. The stand will be stained in a cherry color and coated with polyurethane. I'll post pics of that process as well when I begin.
 
that is some very, very nice work. I love your attention to detail. If you don't mind me asking, how much in raw materials went into the stand?

I thought the stand looked similar to sonofgaladriel's, I followed that thread and loved the design; I think yours is even better-proportioned.

Great work!
 
thanks. That gives me ideas for building my frame. I too wanted no support beams in the front. I would like to see a pic after the doors are installed.
Cheers
 
If you don't mind me asking, how much in raw materials went into the stand?

I have approximately $350.00 in it so far.
 
I have a quick question if I may.

I am also in the process of building a stand skinned in Maple and have been trying to get the Cherry Stain to give the right colors (on scrap pieces of course) but with the close grain, the stain just WILL NOT take. What are you planning to use for this? I have been told numerous times that you have to use wood dye on Maple to get the right color but can't find any locally.

Thanks very much!
 
I have not tried any yet but I bought cherry stain from Sherwin Williams. This is what the cabinet maker who built my bar uses. I'll let you know how it turns out when I try it on scrap pieces.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6840315#post6840315 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by marino420td
I have not tried any yet but I bought cherry stain from Sherwin Williams. This is what the cabinet maker who built my bar uses. I'll let you know how it turns out when I try it on scrap pieces.

Thank you very much. Please do! I have about 20 4" x 4" scraps of wood in the basement now all the wrong color! :lol:
 
Marino - I got the same inspiration from the same source.

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I hope to finally get the finish on it this weekend. Good luck with that cherry stain.

jp
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6840139#post6840139 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by navajo
I have a quick question if I may.

I am also in the process of building a stand skinned in Maple and have been trying to get the Cherry Stain to give the right colors (on scrap pieces of course) but with the close grain, the stain just WILL NOT take. What are you planning to use for this? I have been told numerous times that you have to use wood dye on Maple to get the right color but can't find any locally.

Thanks very much!

It just dawned on me how rude that was!

The reply SHOULD have started:

NICE LOOKING STAND and GREAT wood working! It is a very nice job! I wish I had the skill to pull off all that fancy trimwork!

I posted while at work and in a hurry.

Sorry
 
Navajo,

To get the dark color in maple have you let the coats dry totally and restain to get the deep color? I suspect you are using an oil wipe on stain which gives the richest looking wood but you can always use a lacquer stain with a number of coats.

Russ
 
Do you wipe the stain off as per the directions, or just brush on a very light coat and leave it?

Also, should I use a wood filler for the small nail holes prior to staining? Or stain then fill them with a colored wax filler?

Do most people recommend covering the back of the stand with thin plywood or just leave it open? I plan on the sump, skimmer and other equipment being located through a wall and in another room.
 
With oil stains you wipe them and let it dry and ad more wipe on coats to get it the color you want. With Lacquer stain you have to spray it on and leave it alone. It will dry super fast. Then spray more coats to get the color you want. The lacquer stain does not let the grain pop as much as oils wiping stains.
 
marino, wax filler will not take up stain (been there). Use appropriate color filler and it does not matter if you put it in before or after staining, altough I put it in first and sand it with the wood, that way it is smooth and protected with stain, without the color change.

You have to color match on scrap if you do it this way.
 
Thoughts on a canopy? I loooove the stand design but I am curious about how you might have planned the canopy.

Thanks,
R-
 
sumphead- good question. I have not started planning the canopy yet but it will be constructed to look similar. Obviously, without the structural frame as it will not bear much weight.
 
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