Another Custom Stand Construction Thread- 120 Gal.

This might be a stupid question, but I have to ask cause I cant figure it out. I know you made four face frames and mitred the corners at 45 degree angles, after that, how did you then assemble the frames? Glue and brads? I was thinking that wouldn't be strong enough. Please explain this further. Thanks in advance.
 
I'm going to be making a 120g stand within the next month and I was wondering if I really need that many 2x4's in each corner. Is that overkill you've got there or am I going to need to do the same thing? Thanks. Nice wood working by the way!!
 
You don't need that many 2x4's. I wouldn't call what he did overkill, as I am a believer that the more strength and support you can give it, the better!
 
So, which is it? He doesnt need that many 2x4s or is it overkill?

You can change theadjective to something a bit less then overkill, like just not needed, or not necessary, or...
 
bergovoy, just think of it this way, how much is a 2"x4"x8' about $2.50. Then think about how much you have invested in a tank. Even if it is overkill, is it worth the $2.50 not to do it?? PLus those extra 2x4s will give a little more sanity.
 
I believe it is overkill but as chrismhaase said above, at $2.50 each why not do it. Cheap insurance in my opinion. But it does add a lot of weight.

dfcjr- I did not miter the face frames. I attached them to the 2X4 frame with wood screws. The trim work hides the holes. The joints where the front face frame meets the sides is hidden beneath the columns.
 
I was just wondering because I didn't want to make my corners that wide. I agree that it doesn't hurt. I just didn't want my frame that wide. Would two 2x4's be ok? And how high are you going to have your lights? How tall is the hood?
 
You dont want to see my frame. I got double two by fours at the corners, with double top plate under the ply which is PLd in place. (which i regret cause I wanted to shim a corner after I set the tank)

I was just commenting on the adjectives, overkill or ??

I am amzed at every storebought stand that is just made of plywood with no framing members at all. I truly wonder about them...



<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9478685#post9478685 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chrismhaase
bergovoy, just think of it this way, how much is a 2"x4"x8' about $2.50. Then think about how much you have invested in a tank. Even if it is overkill, is it worth the $2.50 not to do it?? PLus those extra 2x4s will give a little more sanity.
Click to expand...
 
a good corner detail would be to have two 2x4s at right angles to each other, (witht the faces on the outside edge)

so the dimension of hte corner would be 4-1/2"

And you would have great lateral support.

Some would add a 1/2 or 3/4" ply inbetween the two by fours to add more shear, but I believe the plywood facing on the exterior will more the cover that issue.

Good luck

bill
 
Marino,

I'm trying to copy your design in my own 120g build. Here's what I got so far:

132876small1.jpg


It's been a long road so far and this is the first project I've done of this magnitude. I bought some hinges from Lowes a couple days ago and started mounting the two front doors, but, low and behold, I've gone and bought the wrong stuff! When I tried to mount them, I figured out that they were meant for doors that are completely flush mounted.

Anyway, I was wondering if you would point me in the right direction for the hinges I need. I want to use the European style like you did.

Could you maybe point something out to me on this site: http://www.hardwaresource.com/

I built my doors to match my kitchen cabinets with three sides routed 1/2"x1/2" to sit inside the stand. I have already drilled the 35mm holes for the hinges that I bought, so I'm hoping I didn't screw up too bad and have to redo the backing on the doors. That would suck... Thanks for any help you can offer, I'm still learning as I go.

Shaun
 
MArino,

Another question for you.... in this picture
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t296/chrismhaase/marino.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>

Is the horizontal wood sention and the vertical section two different pieces of wood?? If so what tool did you use to cut these pieces? And if this is the case, why did you not take a whole section of wood and trace our where you wanted the holes and either use a jig saw with a guide for straight cuts, or some other tool?

Finally I see that you used this pocket jig tool, was that hard to get the hang of??

Thank you for your help,
Chris
 
This is a great thread and your wood working skills are apparently related to your experience. Wow, you would be hard pressed to even purchase such a nice stand, at least afford one.

Great work…

I would really hate to be asked to help move such a beast, must weigh a ton!
 
I found a pic of what I was talking about on my phone for lunch. This is one of my kitchen cabinet doors.

132876IMAGE_042s.jpg


You see, the inside edge is routed at about 1/2"x1/2" to have an inset that sits inside the cabinet. Do you know what type of hinge I should be using to account for inset and lip?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9681484#post9681484 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chrismhaase
MArino,

Another question for you.... in this picture
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t296/chrismhaase/marino.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>

Is the horizontal wood sention and the vertical section two different pieces of wood?? If so what tool did you use to cut these pieces? And if this is the case, why did you not take a whole section of wood and trace our where you wanted the holes and either use a jig saw with a guide for straight cuts, or some other tool?

Finally I see that you used this pocket jig tool, was that hard to get the hang of??

Thank you for your help,
Chris
Click to expand...

The horizontal and vertical section are two different pieces of wood joined together using a pocket hole jig. I could not make the whole frame out of a solid piece of wood because you can't find a piece of maple 48" wide. Plus, it would not be very strong once you cut out wholes for the doors.

The pocket hole jig is a piece of cake. I absolutely love this tool.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9682761#post9682761 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by eederise
I found a pic of what I was talking about on my phone for lunch. This is one of my kitchen cabinet doors.

132876IMAGE_042s.jpg


You see, the inside edge is routed at about 1/2"x1/2" to have an inset that sits inside the cabinet. Do you know what type of hinge I should be using to account for inset and lip?
Click to expand...

I was confused because you said only 3 sides were routed this way. I believe for those type of doors, you have to use a hinge that will show. I wanted my hardware to be hidden.
 
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