pugbreath13
In Memoriam
Thanks for the great design!
Another Custom Stand Construction Thread- 120 Gal.
- Thread starter marino420td
- Start date
chrismhaase
Active member
Looks like it is back to Lowes. This is the kit I bought for $39. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=255535-39450-R3 I guess it is a started style kit. I tried a few scrap pieces of wood and it was awesome. Can't wait for my doors to come in so I can start building.
chrismhaase
Active member
No Carrier- I went to lowes and you can order doors from there under one of their product lines. You also dont have to limit your choice to standard sized doors, and have the choice of custom sized doors, provided they meet minium size. I got 4 doors all made of oak wood. 2 are 30"tall by 15" tall and the 2 canopy doors are 8"tall by 15" wide. I paid $250 total. I also opted to have them come unfinished so I will not have any issues with matching stains.
Rhodan
New member
NoCarrier - HomeDepot might have services for custom doors....I would suggest going to a custom cabinet shop where they could take look at your cabinet and take their own measurments. I would think you would get the best fitting doors that way. Most likely with a higher cost though. 
eederise
New member
NoCarrier,
Sorry it took so long, but I had to remake my two front doors. Couldn't afford to spend $200 on hinges for the doors I had made. Here's what they look like now.
These are 1/2" overlay doors; they overlap the stand by 1/2" on the edges.
As you can see, I used the pocket hole jig to screw the frame together(not sure if this is the proper technique). I also routed the inside edge to attach some 1/4" plywood. I cut the ends of the frame at 45's.
I used these corner clamps to hold the frame square while I screwed it together. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=242643-52800-WS-1
Inside and outside edges of frame are routed for added decoration. I did all the routing first, screwed the frame together, and then added the plywood backing. I'd be glad to give you any more details if you decide to make something similar.
Marino,
Please excuse the hijacking...
Sorry it took so long, but I had to remake my two front doors. Couldn't afford to spend $200 on hinges for the doors I had made. Here's what they look like now.
These are 1/2" overlay doors; they overlap the stand by 1/2" on the edges.
As you can see, I used the pocket hole jig to screw the frame together(not sure if this is the proper technique). I also routed the inside edge to attach some 1/4" plywood. I cut the ends of the frame at 45's.
I used these corner clamps to hold the frame square while I screwed it together. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=242643-52800-WS-1
Inside and outside edges of frame are routed for added decoration. I did all the routing first, screwed the frame together, and then added the plywood backing. I'd be glad to give you any more details if you decide to make something similar.
Marino,
Please excuse the hijacking...
Bergovoy
Moved On
Waht holds the 1/4 plywood panels into the door? Can I see the detail from the front of the door and plywood panel?
Is the edge of the wood that you mitered and pocket holed, hve a groove that the 1/4 plywood slides into?
Or is there a notch on the front face, and the plywood panel is layed into that notch then a small piece of wood trim is used to cover up that plywood to wood fram detail???
I am confused???
Is the edge of the wood that you mitered and pocket holed, hve a groove that the 1/4 plywood slides into?
Or is there a notch on the front face, and the plywood panel is layed into that notch then a small piece of wood trim is used to cover up that plywood to wood fram detail???
I am confused???
eederise
New member
The rear inside of the frame is routed 1/2"x3/8". The plywood sits in this groove. I used 5/8" brads to attach the plywood to the frame (i had to use about a 30 degree angle on the brad to make sure it didn't come out throught the front of the door). There is no groove at all, although i think the groove is probably the correct way to do this door, but I don't have the correct tools or the patience for that.
Since the edge is routed and the plywood attached from the rear, the front of the door looks just fine. I will take care of the rear of the door with wood filler (there isn't much to fill, if you make the plywood fit into the frame as tight as possible.)
I know I'm not using the usual techniques to make these doors, but I did the best I could with the tools I have. I will take some close-ups of the front for you this afternoon.
marino420td
Premium Member
right. I bought it all at Lowes
marino420td
Premium Member
I had to buy pre-made molding and I bought the doors. I just don't have the tools or the time to make them myself. Other than that, all was done in my shop
redspot321
In Memoriam
Marino is there a name for that molding? I know its not "crown" right? What style is it?
I feel like an idiot looking around for the stuff and I dont even know what its called.... Thanks
I feel like an idiot looking around for the stuff and I dont even know what its called.... Thanks
marino420td
Premium Member
I don't know the exact name but it is located in the same aisle as crown molding, chair rails and baseboards. At my local Lowes, they have one aisle dedicated to moldings.
redspot321
In Memoriam
Ohhhh.. At mine they they have an 8ft section of an isle. Most of the stuff is already primed.
Thanks anyway, I check with cabinet shops. Maybe someone else can chime in. Is it base? Stop? Crown?
Thanks
chrismhaase
Active member
The molding name is called "Egg and Dart" and the stlye is Chair railing. This is the moldig that was used on the inside of the pillars, top and bottom. The different stlye of trim that rests on the pillar base is called "scalloped" . I am making or trying to make a duplicate stand, which is difficult. Marino you are a true woodworker. I just bought the trim yesterday so I am familiar with the style names.
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