Another Diatom post, but Im DESPERATE

I would think you should look into your source water if your having an ongoing issue of diatoms years into a tank. Sounds like the best place to start imo

Also there's a few guys on here and the other site that will test your algae for an absolute ID . giving you a better idea of how to actually kill/control it.

And then there's the new wonder bacteria elixir vibrant that has been gaining some serious steam in the hobby as of late.

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What am I looking for in as far as the water source? As I said, it is well water but it's being filtered through a 6 stage RODI unit.
 
Nopo4x is for nutrient issues mainly nitrate. That's what you feel is causing your issue?

I'm not against Nopo4x I've been using it for years and make my own from a recipe on the forums but I wouldn't think it's gonna contribute to getting rid of a specific algae on the sand bed that's been there for years. But that's just my opinion.. It does work great for nutrient control though

Just some info from a 8+ year user of nopox.. It will control both n03 and p04 ( both of my tanks don't use gfo anymore) but it takes a while till you can pull gfo( or other media) off line. So take that into consideration and make sure not to bottom out your N03, it can happen fast carbon dosing causing an imbalance and lead to other issues like cyano, bleached corals etc..

Good luck and I hope it works out for you.

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According to the directions for the NOPX it says do not run GFO. I had a BRS dual reactor running GFO and carbon. I was going to take out the GFO and run straight carbon. Should I not do that right away?
 
I replaced my GFO with Rowaphos and it certainly helped in my case of diatoms as I am pretty sure I had silicate issues. I also applied the previous advice given and got a booster pump to raise my psi from 50 to 80.

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On the nopox I've never seen or heard of a rapid drop in P04 using any carbon source ( nopox is just vodka, vinegar and some water in a certain ratio). So in your case if your hunch is correct it may fuel a larger bloom in slime way before it starts to get better causing you to make more unneeded changes.

Make sure to test nitrates frequently while starting and getting to your maintenance dose to make sure you don't strip out all the nitrate rendering dosing useless. Just monitor your phosphate and remove when/if needed. I'm sure you can find hundreds of threads and remarks of nopox not removing phosphate ( it will it just needs time Ime and tanks). Your numbers where they sit are almost perfect so I hope your not striving for the 0/0 approach.

The well water and stating never having more than 5tds after the di stage is what has me wondering. I'm on municipal water with really low tds so im spoiled but I work for a water municipality and our supply Wells have all sorts of issues with nitrates, toxins, ammonia, silicates etc.. So if your leaving some of that in your make up water it's making it straight to your tank.

Spectrapure and other manufacturers makes specific filters for a lot of things like lead, silicates, nitrates, heavy metals etc. I personally would send off my water to get professionally tested and build my RODI around it by talking with them. A Booster pump is key as well to get the most out of your system, if your getting 50psi I think your under the stated "ideal" working pressure of most tfc membranes. Even my pressure gauge on my unit has the green ( best working pressure) start @ 60 psi.

My only thoughts are your on a well with crazy tds, so what is that tds? Is your rodi equipped to remove it? . Running a lower pressure and getting up to 5 tds when most strive for 0 could be a place to start. You may never get 0 TDS but having the correct filters could change the properties of that 5 tds turning the tank into what you want.

From the outside looking in your doing everything right, have great equipment and a solid maintenance schedule. That's what makes me think your source water comes into play. Like I said that's just where I would start and in no way am I saying I'm right, but I would HAVE to know what is in my well and if my filter is capable of removing it.

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I totally agree with Dapg8gt, I would start at the source water seeing as it's well water. Your maintenance schedule, and equipment all seem up to par, but seeing as its been an ongoing issue, it would also lead me to believe it was something in the water.
 
How often do you replace your GFO? GFO should remove silicates which are usually the limiting nutrient for diatoms.

I suspect that if you are replacing your GFO regularly and you still have what looks like diatoms that it's actually dinoflagellates. Can you post a picture? Lets get a positive ID and make sure it's diatoms and not dinoflagellates.

Either that or you have an insane amount of silicates coming into your tank. Regardless, make sure your RODI is at 0 tds with no silicates.
 
8 weeks in not that much time. I recently did a transfer from a 150 to 250. Mine took nearly 4-5 months before it settled in. Be patient...[emoji41]


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