(Another) DIY LED Controller - Simple Arduino Style

Lol I love the rubbermaid bin. I found a old black aluminum USB hard drive enclosure I had laying around that I will try to use. I just need to find a machine shop around here who will CNC the LCD whole out of it for cheap for me.
 
The lcd screen with buttons looks to have been made for some use ,other then adruino? Anyway thats way it looks?
 
The lcd screen with buttons looks to have been made for some use ,other then adruino? Anyway thats way it looks?

Nope made for the arduino you can get em with or without buttons if you dont have buttons with the LCD you would just wire up the buttons to the arduino
 
Just read all pages and tagging along. I actually have all of the parts from a previous project that I did not have the time to finish.

Tagging along to see how far this goes.

Great idea with all of the visuals.
 
Here is what I have already 2 RTC's, 1 LCD keypad shield, 6 DS18B20 1 Wire Digital Thermometer Dallas, and 6 2N2222A 2N2222 TO-18 NPN 40V 0.8A Transistor

IMG_20110322_150600.jpg


and do the ones on the left look right for the transistors? they claim to be what they are....

IMG_20110322_150412.jpg


Still waiting on my arduino to come but hopefully soon. This is the old usb hdd enclosure I will have a lcd hole and button holes cut out and try to house the project in this

IMG_20110322_185342.jpg
 
Anyone know how I can make a 10v regulator? the meanwells are sensitive to anything over 10v and I want to run a single power adapter at 12v or can I just use my 10v I am using for the meanwells currently to power the arduino and also feed the meanwells?
 
Here is what I have already 2 RTC's, 1 LCD keypad shield, 6 DS18B20 1 Wire Digital Thermometer Dallas, and 6 2N2222A 2N2222 TO-18 NPN 40V 0.8A Transistor

and do the ones on the left look right for the transistors? they claim to be what they are....
The TO-18 is the package style of the 2N2222 transistors you bought. TO-18 package looks like a metal hat, with 3 legs. Of the two bags, the one on the left does appear to have six TO-18 devices. So they certainly could be the transistors. Are there any printed markings on them?

Here is a link to a datasheet which shows a pin-out diagram, so you can tell which leg is which.

I like that case - good idea.

--adam
 
Anyone know how I can make a 10v regulator? . . . . can I just use my 10v I am using for the meanwells currently to power the arduino and also feed the meanwells?

What are you using now for your 10v to the meanwells? We would have to know what the actual power consumption of the Arduino board + LCD+backlight is. Has anybody measured?

If the current requirements for everything you wanted to power with 10v were less than 100 mA, then you could use this regulator available from DigiKey ($0.45) (and others):

UA78L10ACLP

The Datasheet for that shows how to hook it up on page 9,

but basically you would connect the 12v supply (+) to the input pin, the (-) to the ground pin, and the output pin would give you your 10v (+) and your ground would still be your (-). You should also at least put a 0.33 - 10 uF capacitor rated at least 16v (better 25v) between the input and ground, and it wouldn't hurt to put another between output and ground.

Here's a 10 uF 25v cap you could use ($0.70 each), but there are plenty others to choose from.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=478-5813-ND

--adam
 
katchupoy have you started working on the sketch yet? This is where im going to need to fallow along the most. Arduino is in the mail and I should be getting it soon.
 
I am using that selectable 3-12v wallwart from radio shack running at 9v , then going to a pot then the meanwell. The meanwell is adjusted for the 9v signal but I can adjust it for the proper 10v signal if I can get a proper voltage limiter that will never let it go over 10v and run the wallwart at 12v to power everything.
 
I am using that selectable 3-12v wallwart from radio shack running at 9v , then going to a pot then the meanwell. The meanwell is adjusted for the 9v signal but I can adjust it for the proper 10v signal if I can get a proper voltage limiter that will never let it go over 10v and run the wallwart at 12v to power everything.

Be careful. Some cheaper unregulated 'wallwarts' can put out way over the stated voltage when lightly loaded. I have measured over 12 volts when they are set to 9.
 
Tom,

I didn't measure my own, but on searching I found that the arduino board consumes about 26 mA when powered by an external supply, 35 mA when using USB. But I was surprised to find the LCD board I have consumes 120 mA typically (150 max), and another 100 mA for the backlight.

The Meanwell should draw very little on it's 0-10v control input. So, you should be able to use that RadioShack 9V supply without any voltage regulator circuit for both the Arduino+LCD and the Meanwell control lines if it's capable of supplying at least 285 mA. But as mentioned, make sure you measure what voltage the PS is actually putting out unloaded.

If you want to bump up to 12v then you can supply the Arduino+LCD with the 12v, and use that 78L10 regulator just for the pot feeding the meanwell.

--adam
 
Also I have a chance to swap my 48D's for brand new 48P's for no charge it seems like that would be the smart thing for me to do.

katchupoy do you plan on having both 48d's and p's in the code and we can just comment the wrong one? Please.... lol I am building 2 of these and one will be for a set of d's and it looks like the other for a set of p's.
 
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