(Another) DIY LED Controller - Simple Arduino Style

[katchupoy]

This is the schematic using the icl7667 to replace the pots

I dont understand why need to add additional IC or parts where you can do the same without it??? Since you are also using a power supply to run it?

 

[liquidarts]

Been a long time since i posted your build looks well, This is my new project using info from the links 2 pages back was a bit of a pain to upload and then calibrate the touch screen but all seems sweet

Its an arduino mega 1280 using a 3.2" touch tft and a mega shield with the rtc built in

I'm so jealous right now ktnch.....am waiting on my board n stuff right now.I'll be playing with the sketch to include a menu to set-up wavemakers,moonlighting dimmable via dates so there are different phases,pH and ORP monitoring just to begin with when everything gets here.

 

[TheReefNinja]

Ok so this is not stable at all running the relays...... the screen always goes haywire.... i dont know

 

[TheReefNinja]

here is some pics of wiring the relays

all buttoned back up with the relays in it

 

[BigCity]

here is some pics of wiring the relays

all buttoned back up with the relays in it

Did that whole unit come made for this setup or was it something you created? Where did you get it, very interested. Got a mega kit coming hopefully next week.

 

[TheFishMan65]

Are those optically isolated relays? I am trying to remember this from years ago (maybe someone fresher will chime in). When relays switch on and off they create surges (in rush current - heard about those ). I think this can also happen when they shut down. This can causes the power on the controller to fluctuate. Is the screen a ways away? The additional wiring could allow even more variation. So try adding some capacitors (sorry can't tell you what size) to the power line of the relay board.

 

[TheFishMan65]

Oh look long ribbon wire to the display - try shortening that.

I hope you mounted that relay board to something. If the bottom (top in picture) hits the metal enclosure - well good things will not happen.

 

[TheReefNinja]

Lol yea its protected from the metal with plastic. never had any issues until I wired up the relays. I may have to feed power to them separate from the arduino.

 

[TheReefNinja]

tracked it to the relays load..... I can have my fuge light and fans on it just fine but as soon as I plug in my powerhead wammo.....

 

[TheReefNinja]

yea this looks to be a voltage issue what can I do to correct this? the cap idea? but what size? it switches the relays just fine I can hear them clicking on and off and the lights on the relay board go on and off no issues at all, only when I plug something in that takes some juice it goes haywire on the screen.

EDIT: By the way I am powering meanwells and the arduino with the same regulated switchable power supply set at 9v 1A 1 amp should be plenty for this...

EDIT #2: I can hook 2 light bulbs up to it just fine and they flash and no screen issues yet. it is only high power stuff causing it. maybe i need a new powerhead lol

EDIT #3: the arduino still runs with the screen messed up. the pumps turn on and off like it is still running the code fine.

 

[liquidarts]

What about isolating the digital signal from feed-back from the higher voltage stuff.....maybe a diode or something....

 

[TheFishMan65]

What size caps do you have laying around?

 

[ktnch]

Not sure of the figure i think its round 4 meanwells you can driver of one pwn pin from the arduino, the ardunio provides around 10ma to the pwm dimmers this is why the ICL 7667 comes in because the white and blue pwm feeds from the arduino are fed in to the ICL7667 and it has a 5v supply from the rail then the atmega 328 main chip will not get overloaded. so to get a 0-10v signal all you need to do is use one 12v psu for the arduino then a 10v voltage reg to the ICL7667 to supply 0-10v

Was trying to upload the arduino program on the the page but it says to large

1) ICL7667 - because my knowledge is very limited. Also there are a lot of people there like me who are also have limited knowledge with electronics, programming and arduino.

2) Overload - It will not overload Arduino since we just use it to send signal to meanwell drivers. Not to power them but to send signals.

3) Pots - I kept mine because if I service my arduino. I can simply disconnect the writing to and from arduino. This is where the POTS comes in. Just a redundancy so that you are not fully dependent with Arduino. Manual override.

4) Texts too long - I dont understand this... please explain more.

 

[ktnch]

This is the diagram for the meanwells used along the arduino with 0-10v pwn feed

Another great item are the solid state relays

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Solid-state-r...al_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item1c1b6c13ec

Great build nice one

 

[roundman]

I have a question about the pots. Can you still put them in if you are using the ELN P drivers and will they work?

Thanks for all the help you are doing to help noobs like me.

 

[liquidarts]

For me as well as some others the only thing having those pots for would be to manually dim the LED's even if you have the dawn/dusk set on the controller.Having that as a back-up would help greatly when it comes to getting in new corals and you need to acclimate them without needing to reprogram the controller.

I have a question about the pots. Can you still put them in if you are using the ELN P drivers and will they work?

Thanks for all the help you are doing to help noobs like me.

 

[katchupoy]

I have a question about the pots. Can you still put them in if you are using the ELN P drivers and will they work?

Thanks for all the help you are doing to help noobs like me.

Yes, it will work. the only issue is that the cutoff at the bottom is around 10%... It means that it will go down to maybe 10% dim and then off... I dont mind, compared to a simple on/off timer, its already way better.

 

[TheFishMan65]

I didn't think you could use a potentiometer on a P, but I am not sure so I didn't post. Have you tried the katchupoy?

 

[katchupoy]

For me as well as some others the only thing having those pots for would be to manually dim the LED's even if you have the dawn/dusk set on the controller.Having that as a back-up would help greatly when it comes to getting in new corals and you need to acclimate them without needing to reprogram the controller.

Also, to add...

My controller setup can be separated from the lights. They are just connected thru a quick disconnect. Im using simple RCA jack for a disconnect.

So if for example i have guests coming over and need to do a show and tell... I simply remove the RCA jack and short the ends... i mean pos and neg of RCA jacks... This will create continuity and will lit up the LEDs 100%.... now I can just play with the POTs and show them how it works....

Also, this can fine tune the kelvin temperature you want... Example you bought too many white and its too white for you... so this way you can simple turn down the POT for the white without messing with the sketch/code....

 

[katchupoy]

I didn't think you could use a potentiometer on a P, but I am not sure so I didn't post. Have you tried the katchupoy?

Yes Im using it right now... it works perfectly except for the 10% cutoff.