(Another) DIY LED Controller - Simple Arduino Style

Shortened LCD wires by half. Executed " shake test" for soldering isues. No change.
Noticed that it is probably other electric devices switching on and of causes hieroglificacion.
Need to check adding cap on power line.
BTW sometimes lcd becomes blank at all.
 
Muda yup same thing I was getting I moved all switching devices off the controllers powersupply and it worked but I cant use the WM features till we have a solution. I dont know squat about caps and filters so this is a job for someone else.

Roundman no I havent not yet I have all the stuff to do the rain system but I heard that the 48D's arnt responsive enough for the lighting so we will see.
 
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/sauliusle/5893650422/" title="IMG_1411 by sauliusle, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5073/5893650422_3d07eb8021_z.jpg" width="640" height="358" alt="IMG_1411"></a>

looks like that or that

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/sauliusle/5893082327/" title="IMG_1413 by sauliusle, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6057/5893082327_753280a4f4.jpg" width="500" height="199" alt="IMG_1413"></a>
 
muda i am not sour the is the problem, just something I found when researching.

You will need to determine the acceptable contrast values. The LCD can only sensibly handle a range of 10% to 40%. Below 10% the LCD display appears as solid blocks and above 40% the text disappears completely. Go too far above 40% and the display will malfunction showing random characters.
This is the site
http://andybrown.me.uk/ws/2010/11/28/lcd-backlight-and-contrast-manager/
 
Thanks Steven . Its worth checking.
I dont know how other equipment switching on-of can trigger that thouh.
Just noticed my DIY ATO has impact among others. It is separate system from arduino and only mains power is what is shared.
 
Muda whats the button and switches for? also take a pic of the wiring let me see it. it may just be a crossed wire I ran my lcd wires away from everything else and it helped a lot.
 
I've been following this for a while and first I wanted to thank everyone for all of the help you guys have given me, especially katchpoy and TheReefNinja.

I have followed the original build pretty carefully and here is what I have...

2 ELN 60-48P Drivers
Arduino Duemilanove
LCD Shield (same one with the 6 buttons that you have a link to)
RTC Clock

The light is a 20 LED light (10 CW and 10 RB)

I have everything wired just like your diagram shows
arduino%2Btransistor_simple.jpg


My problem is my 10v power supply I think. I don't know which wire is positive, both are white and one has black dashes on it. I have hooked it up both ways with 2 results

dashes = positive => LED's barely come on, no response from current POT inside driver
dashes = negative => LED's are super bright and respond to current POT inside driver, don't get very dim tho.

Based on that, I think that the dashes are positive, but I can't figure out what Im doing wrong. I am using your code and have "enabled" the line for 60-48P.

Right now I only have the RB LED's hooked up, could this be the problem? The CW LED's are wired, but not attached to power or to the arduino. Thanks in advance for any help anyone can give me

I forgot to ask, I know the resistor is 1k, but how many watts? (Im using a 1/4 watt) and also how many amps for the 10v power supply? (im using 1 amp)
 
Muda whats the button and switches for? also take a pic of the wiring let me see it. it may just be a crossed wire I ran my lcd wires away from everything else and it helped a lot.

Buttons are for manual pump controll - aka feed mode . Another is for 24V power supply. Ill be moving components away to see if it helps.
 
Hi Experts,

Ok i have ordered the supplies for the controller and have understood most of the parts but have a few questions. Below is my circuit with pots right now. where i have 2 ELN 48-60 D, 1 is driving the blue and 1 is driving the white. for dimming both the drivers i am using one single 9 v power supply.

driverbox.jpg


now my questions are

1. With arduino do i need 2 x 9 w power supply each separate for blue and white string?

2. If want to remove the pots and use the setup with the pots then can i use the same 9 v power supply or i need to have 12 v?

3. As you see in the above circuit i am using only one power supply if you guys sugegst it is ok then do i can i connect both the drivers with 1 k resistor and NPN 2 N2222 transistor i need to increase the values or make them in pairs for each driver?

Sorry guys i am totally confused need help.
 
Im assuming I am on max but Im certainly not a coding expert. I changed the allowable min for blue to 240 and the max is 255 so stage 1 should be like 90% or so, unless there is something else I need to change as well?
 
Im assuming I am on max but Im certainly not a coding expert. I changed the allowable min for blue to 240 and the max is 255 so stage 1 should be like 90% or so, unless there is something else I need to change as well?

If you have LCD connected, look for B:10 W:10. If so - you are on max. It depends on what time is it. Morning and evening is ramp phase. Only adjust pots when its 10-10. Othervise PWM from arduino will interrupt with your settings.
 
I had the same problem u had with the lcd. it would run fine for like 4 or 5 hours then garbled. it turned out to be the wires. when i closed my enclosure i think it was putting to much pressure on something. well now i have my enclosure half way open. it will still happen if I shake the wires a lot.

Just my 1 cent
 
I am thinking of shielded cable for LCD. I added feryte ring to arduino power supply cable and it helped a lot . But still not 100%
 
Muda please post if you find a solution to this I just got all my parts in today I have 4 of these that someone "bought" but backed out at the last minute after my order had shipped. I would like to eliminate any issues before getting these to people
 
Martin,
I ordered the i2C and was looking at the examples I needed to load to use it. I am using reef ninja's sketch but not sure which of the examples to use and how to incorporate it. Can you give me a few pointers?

Thanks
Rawn
 
Muda please post if you find a solution to this I just got all my parts in today I have 4 of these that someone "bought" but backed out at the last minute after my order had shipped. I would like to eliminate any issues before getting these to people
If you believe you have noise problem, then grounding is the key. make sure every signal should have a twisted pair signal/ground. Specially for the relays- board.
 
Back
Top