Another option for red bugs

so glad i ran into this thread... about to start dipping... was looking for interceptor and just found out it cant be found anymore... but one question on the red bugs did you have to continuously dip?? or just the one time?? cause i did interceptor once and rb came back... so wondering if i should dip ever week like interceptor...
 
The google spreadsheet is confusing to me. There is regular and concentrated formulas listed and the amount for the concentrated formula is higher than the regular.

It might be helpful to have one post listing the dosages for the concentrate and the ready to use versions.

Whisperer, if this continues to work and there is no long term health effects to the corals you should be put in for the Marine Reef Pulitzer Prize. Nice going and thanks for sharing!
 
There also different types of Bayet Advanced such as home pest, rose &flower, complete insect killer, and others. Each of them have different concentrations of chemicals or use different chemicals all together. I think there should be collection of different tests with all the specificities to boil this down to a science. I'm actually goin to pick up some Bayer Advanced complete insect killer and give it a shot on 2 infected frags and 1 that I suspect. I'll post again later today with pretreatment and posttreatment info and notes.
 
OMG, I wish you guys had this tread few years back, I lost about 3k in SPS, I almost quit the hobby, I might give it a second change to my SPS,
I had he worst flat worm and RB infestation. Keep up the good work and please post more pics of your stories.
 
OK, so Im going to give a quick brief of what I did then break things down and go a little more in depth. I purchased the Bayer Advanced Complete insect killer from Home Depot with the intent of treating 2 corals that i highly suspected was infected with redbugs and 1 that I thought had a potential (reduced PE from when i first got the frag). Choosing to side with caution i went with one of the lower doses i found on this thread (.6ml/2cups). However, after 24 hrs all 3 pieces did not seem to display and effect (ill or intended). So, at the 24hr mark i decided to dip again with a far higher concentration. I went with 15ml/2cups with the idea that I'd rather risk the pieces than have the redbugs spread. However I did leave the 3 potentially infected piece out of this trial because its a bit more expensive and wanted to have some assurance it would live. Anyway here is a more in depth breakdown.

Dip 1
Corals Dipped: 2-2.5" ORA Tricolor Valida,
1.5-2" Unknown (possible shades of fall)
1-1.5" Garf Bonsai
Product Name: Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer
Dip Concentration: .6ml/2cups
Dip Duration: 6 minutes
Notes: The dip solution contained pods and the like, however I don't believe any of them were redbugs. They were either too large or thin and did not match the color profile I saw online. I observed both pieces throughout the day and during lights out. I saw no obvious improvements nor did i see any negative effects.

Dip 2
Corals Dipped 2-2.5" ORA Tricolor Valida
1.5-2" Unknown (possible shades of fall)
Time since last dip : 24hrs
Product Name: Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer
Dip Concentration: 15ml/2cups
Dip Duration: 10 minutes
Notes: This time the dip container definitely had dead red bugs. There were also thin "bugs" that lived to the 10minute mark but moved rapidly and in patterns that suggest distress. This is my first definitive evidence that i do in fact have redbugs as i have never actually seen them on the corals. Upon returning the pieces to the DT, i noticed that there were still some redbugs visible on the corals. However i suspect that they are dead because none were moving and some seemed to be stuck on the corals filaments. These post dip observations were done 45min after dipping and I will add any other findings i make.
 
Update: 2 hours post dip, I observed at least 2 redbugs moving on the coral...I may have to go with a drastic amount of Bayer in tommorow's dip.
 
I used the "ready to spray" version with the hose attachment and nozzle. I'm not sure what they mean when they labeled the other product as "concentrate" because the active ingredient makeup is exactly the same as the read to spay version. Anyway, I convinced myself to go with a 20ml/cup to match some of the higher dosages suggested midway in this thread (10ml/half cup).
 
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This is the issue I am having with the spreadsheet. The makeup of the formulas will be the same during application since the concentrate will be mixed with water.

The concentrated version has a much more potent active ingredient if you are not mixing it with the suggested amount of water.

So if the concentrate has a dilution factor of 10-1 and you use 0.5ml if you are using the ready to spray then 5ml will be needed to get the same potentcy.
 
The thing is, according to the Bayer website the % of active ingredient concentrations for both the Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer "Ready to Spray" and the "Concentrate" are exactly they same. They both have Imidacloprid: .72%, Beta-Cyfluthrin: .36%, and Other Ingredients: 98.92%. This to me indicates that they are the same product...If I am mistaken, can someone break this down Barney style to me cause apparently I don't get it. I wanted to use some math to calculate a general ballpark concentration based on other peoples use of the "Concentrate" formula but they apparently have the some chemical makeup and concentration.

Information on "Ready to Spray" and "Concentrate" found on Bayer website: http://www.bayeradvanced.com/lawn-care/products/complete-brand-insect-killer-for-soil-turf/sizes
 
Good find, M88A2. Looks like they are the same. The RTS dilutes as it's sprayed, the 'concentrate' is diluted by the user prior to application. There might be a cost difference because the RTS has a 'nifty' sprayer! :) Not much use for our applications.
 
Well i just finished doing a 3rd dip with a 20ml/1cup concentration of the Bayer Advanced Insect Killer "Ready to Spray". My initial impression is that the corals appear to look OK aside from heavy slimming while in the Dip and little to moderate slimming after returning to the DT. I'll follow up with a combined writeup of the 3 dips later today, after the corals have had some time to sell in.

woodnaquanut, in that context its easier to understand what they mean by "consentrate". Thanks for the clarification. Seems like a marketing ploy to give a product a better name than "regular". In any case, they can call this stuff Super-Crazy-Diamon-Plantinum Juice, as long as it works, I'll keep buy
 
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I just received 2 frags this morning from Vivid (ORA Red Planet and ORA Tricolor Valida). I made up a dipping solution of 10ml (ready to use) to 2 cups tank water. I dipped the frags for 6 minutes. I pulled them out, inspected them and rinsed them in a cup of salt water. As M88A2 stated, the corals did slime a bit while in the solution. There was no sign of anything in the solution and the frags looked very clean. After rinsing, I placed them in my DT and within 5 minutes or so the frags displayed polyp extension. I also noticed that my amphipods were going crazy. They were jumping off the rocks and swimming around. They definitely appeared to be stressed by the residual solution that made it into the tank. After a couple of minutes the pods calmed down and everything was back to normal. I still have pods crawling all over my rock and in my sump.
 
Is it ok to put frags in just a cup of water for 6+ minutes?

I have been scared to put them in such a small amount of water with a dip solution. I have been using coral rx but i think have red bugs. 2 millies on same rock have no pe.
 
Is it ok to put frags in just a cup of water for 6+ minutes?

I have been scared to put them in such a small amount of water with a dip solution. I have been using coral rx but i think have red bugs. 2 millies on same rock have no pe.
 
Dashiki said:
Is it ok to put frags in just a cup of water for 6+ minutes?

I have been scared to put them in such a small amount of water with a dip solution. I have been using coral rx but i think have red bugs. 2 millies on same rock have no pe.
Click to expand...

As long as your ratio is correct it doesn't matter the size. I used 10ml per 2 cups of tank water. Looks like others are even doing a stronger version of the dosing. I dipped some millies and within 30 minutes had all their polyps out. Two of them which never really showed signs of PE.
 
Previously in the thread, there were a few that were dosing 40ml/2 cups of Bayer Advanced Insect Killer (not the "w/ germ control" stuff, and it is the 'concentrate'). I have adopted this method for my dips, with a total of exactly 5 minute dip time.

Since I have started dipping, I have not seen a single red bug or AEFW on any of the 60 or so corals in my tank. I have not lost a single frag, and my SPS are pretty high end stuff (Red Dragon, etc). I dip everything from Sinularas to Acans, and all the corals do very well in the dip, except one. I'm not sure the species, but it turns almost white, except for the very tips of the coralites. Each dip however, after a couple weeks it begins to get it's color back.

I have been very successful with this particular method, and is much 'easier' on the corals then other dips I have used such as Lugol's and Coral Rx. Hope this helps.

Nathaniel
 
I actually used this stuff. Dead pest everywhere.. corals were fine...
images
 
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