Any locals using the herbie style overflow

79chopperdr

I killed ALL that Coral!
Wondering if any body has switched from the durso style overflow to the herbie style. I'm interested in before and after observations.

Thanks
 
I have a DSA 135 with four holes in one overflow box, running Herbie style plumbing. I had two Durso's before, and it was very loud, and I had a very violent sump. Now it's adjustable and as silent as I want up top, and silent on bottom. The water in the sump almost doesn't even look like it's moving, at 600gph or so...
 
I have a halfway bastardized herbie-beananimal on my AGA 210. Basically the two return holes are joined and dump into the sump via a 1" drain, then each overflow hole is a separate emergency drain with one lower than the other.
It is impossible to overflow my tank at all levels, we tested it out before we filled it with salt water.
The only issue is with the two drains being joined you have the chance of the drain not starting up properly, if I cared I would add a small hose to each drain that sat just below the normal water level a la the second channel on bean's design. Fortunately for me I rarely turn off my return, when I do occasionally one of the joined drains will suck air until I get tired of the sound and restart my return pump. I've never had to restart my return more than a couple times to get it going properly again.
 
I have a halfway bastardized herbie-beananimal on my AGA 210. Basically the two return holes are joined and dump into the sump via a 1" drain, then each overflow hole is a separate emergency drain with one lower than the other.
It is impossible to overflow my tank at all levels, we tested it out before we filled it with salt water.
The only issue is with the two drains being joined you have the chance of the drain not starting up properly, if I cared I would add a small hose to each drain that sat just below the normal water level a la the second channel on bean's design. Fortunately for me I rarely turn off my return, when I do occasionally one of the joined drains will suck air until I get tired of the sound and restart my return pump. I've never had to restart my return more than a couple times to get it going properly again.


Couldn't you just block the overflow outlet in the sump until it a achieves the proper water level in the overflow box? That's what I do when it doesn't start right. Plus, it fixes the level immediately, instead of waiting for it to equalize...
 
I'm thinking of go this route on a 120 with dual overflow. I've seen where the two drains are left independent and one return is used for the emergency. The second return can be used for return or plugged and bring returns over the back. I'm not crazy about the over the back idea, but the second return could be used for a closed loop inlet...
 
I was, and continue to be, ecstatic about how quiet and smooth it made my overflow and sump. World of difference...

Where does the water enter your sump?

I have overflow pipes dumping into sump now(submerged) and the bubbles make a lot of salt spray in the sump area. My plan would be to fill the first chamber with rubble rock. I was thinking of drilling the side of the sump and having the overflows enter the bottom of the first chamber.
 
Where does the water enter your sump?

I have overflow pipes dumping into sump now(submerged) and the bubbles make a lot of salt spray in the sump area. My plan would be to fill the first chamber with rubble rock. I was thinking of drilling the side of the sump and having the overflows enter the bottom of the first chamber.

Do you have a herbie style overflow? Sounds more like a durso. If you have a siphon, there will be no air entering your standpipe, and in result, no bubbles in the sump. If you do have a durso, sounds like too much water in the emergency overflow, which has no siphon, so lots of air. If so, open your gate valve a bit.
 
My current tank is DIY drilled 80. It has two turned up elbows for overflows. Lots of bubbles and noise!

Next week I'm getting an AGA 120 to start building up. It has the factory durso setup and I'm contemplating how to plumb it.
 
Couldn't you just block the overflow outlet in the sump until it a achieves the proper water level in the overflow box? That's what I do when it doesn't start right. Plus, it fixes the level immediately, instead of waiting for it to equalize...
Yeah, I could probably do that but my sump is outside and I'm lazy!
 
My current tank is DIY drilled 80. It has two turned up elbows for overflows. Lots of bubbles and noise!

Next week I'm getting an AGA 120 to start building up. It has the factory durso setup and I'm contemplating how to plumb it.

Now that'll be easy. Chop one durso in half, put a gate valve on it close to the sump. Voila, instant herbie! That is, if it has a single cover with dual overflows...
 
Where does the water enter your sump?

I have overflow pipes dumping into sump now(submerged) and the bubbles make a lot of salt spray in the sump area. My plan would be to fill the first chamber with rubble rock. I was thinking of drilling the side of the sump and having the overflows enter the bottom of the first chamber.
With a herbie or beananimal style overflow the depth of the pipe in the sump makes a big difference in the flow rate, mine enters the sump about 1 inch below the surface of the water. If the filter sock gets plugged up then the overflows on the tank start backing up.
 
With a herbie or beananimal style overflow the depth of the pipe in the sump makes a big difference in the flow rate, mine enters the sump about 1 inch below the surface of the water. If the filter sock gets plugged up then the overflows on the tank start backing up.

I noticed that problem at first too so I opted to not run a filter sock.
 
Nice job on the plumbing dude. Don't be shocked if my manifold looks like its related to yours. How would you had done it if you had dual overflows?

Hahah... Thanks. Not sure if I'm qualified to answer your question since I do not have any experience applying the herbie to dual overflows. It would seem to me that doing it on dual overflows is harder to adjust unless you combine the siphon in each overflow into one gate valve. Maybe someone with more experience can chime in.

You don't want to run your returns behind the tank?
 
I noticed that problem at first too so I opted to not run a filter sock.
That is a viable option, I am in the process of changing my sump around a little to have my over flow dump into one tank and then have that dump into my sump. I will have a filter sock on the sump side, I like the mechanical filtration of a filter sock so it is hard to give that up.
 
Back
Top