toofrigginswt
New member
I know what you mean. After seeing the gunk inside of a filter sock, it's tough to give it up. I was hesitant at first too but then realized life was so much better not having to wash those things every 3 days. haha..
Any locals using the herbie style overflow
- Thread starter 79chopperdr
- Start date
I know what you mean. After seeing the gunk inside of a filter sock, it's tough to give it up. I was hesitant at first too but then realized life was so much better not having to wash those things every 3 days. haha..
Believe me, if I didn't have a dozen of them and my sump wasn't outside in a shed I would never use one. When my sump was under the tank I didn't use socks at all. But I almost feel lazy not using one now that I have the shed!
79chopperdr
I killed ALL that Coral!
79chopperdr
I killed ALL that Coral!
I've read where folks have combined the overflows into one gate, but they didn't up size the gate or the remaining plumbing. To me that would basically cut the overflow in half. I also know that two gate valves would require lots of tinkering to adjust the overflows to match.
Do you ever have to adjust your overflow gate valve or is it set it and forget it?
Yes, if I get lazy (i.e. often) on changing my filter sock then the flow that should be going to the sump starts to back up in the overflow. It is really only an issue if I wait 5 or 6 days to change a sock which is the limit for a filter sock before they become a nitrate trap. With no sock and my drain being an inch below the surface of the sump my skimmer makes more turbulence in the sump than the drain. It is seriously dead silent though, my power heads and return make more noise than my over flow.
I have two 1" drains joined just before the sump going into one gate valve. In my system (low turnover) the gate valve is almost closed. I run about 700gph through my sump and two full siphon drains are more than capable of handling that through one inch plumbing. My gate valve stays untouched, only when I shut down the return do I have to tinker with it. Then I just restart the return if the drain doesn't start properly. That is a 1 in 3 chance of happening.
Keep in mind the drain not restarting properly means gurgling and air noise, no issues with the flow, just more noise than I want.
toofrigginswt
New member
Hey 79chopperdr, I was reading through the overflow threads and think you might be better off doing the beananimal instead of a herbie. Check here:
Here's a quote from Beananimal:
"...The easiest way to utilize this setup in that scenario is as follows:
BOX 1:
Open channel
Siphon
BOX 2:
Emergency
Return from sump
Fill box #2 with oolitic sand to just below the overflow teeth. This will create a small but likely effective DSB for NNR.
That allows you to utilize both boxes and the overflow system without having stagnant water in one of the boxes. There are other options, but this is by far the easiest. "
Also this guy has successfully implemented a beananimal style overflow in his dual overflow setup: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=19467047&postcount=3973
Maybe you can get some ideas from him.
Here's a quote from Beananimal:
"...The easiest way to utilize this setup in that scenario is as follows:
BOX 1:
Open channel
Siphon
BOX 2:
Emergency
Return from sump
Fill box #2 with oolitic sand to just below the overflow teeth. This will create a small but likely effective DSB for NNR.
That allows you to utilize both boxes and the overflow system without having stagnant water in one of the boxes. There are other options, but this is by far the easiest. "
Also this guy has successfully implemented a beananimal style overflow in his dual overflow setup: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=19467047&postcount=3973
Maybe you can get some ideas from him.
Brian Prestwood
Premium Member
I've used a herbie overflow on my last three tanks, including my current tank. They are quite.
Water falling from the tank water line level to a lower water level in the overflow causes most of the overflow noise. Air mixing with water in the overflow exhaust (drain) line causes a lot of overflow noise too.
Herbie overflows allow you to control the water level in the overflow and prevent air from getting into the overflow.
Use a gate value, not a ball value. Do not glue any of the fittings in the overflow. It isn't necessary.
I've never used the third pipe you see in some designs. In five years of herbie operation I've never had an overflow.
If one of your two drain lines, i.e. the bulkhead holes, has a smaller OD, e.g. an All-Glass overflow, I suggest you use the smaller OD line for the primary flow line. Also use thin wall PVC for both lines to maximize the drain line ID.
The water level in your overflow should be no more than 2" lower then the water level in your display tank. The further the water falls as it enters your overflow the more noise it will make. The emergency overflow intake should be at or a little, 0.5 to 1.0", under the display tank water line.
The primary flow line intake must be at least 5" shorter then the emergency flow line, i.e. about 5" underwater, to prevent a vortex from forming and sucking air in. The max height depends on the water flow rate. Be prepared to adjust this height a bit.
The exhaust end, i.e. sump end, of both lines must be underwater to prevent noise.
Herbie overflows can be finicky. The water level in the overflow must stay within a narrow range. If it goes too high water flowing through the emergency overflow line will make noise. If it goes too low the primary flow line will suck air in and make noise.
IME it works best to clean the overflow weir and return pump intake then adjust the overflow water level so a little water trickles through the emergency overflow line during normal operation.
Also the fewer "T"s for equipment that clogs during normal use, e.g. media reactors, you have on the return line the better. None is best. As they clog they change the water flow which will change the water level in the overflow and may require an overflow water level adjustment.
When you get it all installed and adjusted turn the primary flow line off to make sure your emergency overflow line can handle the flow.
EDIT: It is possible to install a herbie overflow in an overflow with only one drain hole if the overflow is large enough to hold a "T" and a valve. You will have to reach down into the overflow to adjust the water level.
Water falling from the tank water line level to a lower water level in the overflow causes most of the overflow noise. Air mixing with water in the overflow exhaust (drain) line causes a lot of overflow noise too.
Herbie overflows allow you to control the water level in the overflow and prevent air from getting into the overflow.
Use a gate value, not a ball value. Do not glue any of the fittings in the overflow. It isn't necessary.
I've never used the third pipe you see in some designs. In five years of herbie operation I've never had an overflow.
If one of your two drain lines, i.e. the bulkhead holes, has a smaller OD, e.g. an All-Glass overflow, I suggest you use the smaller OD line for the primary flow line. Also use thin wall PVC for both lines to maximize the drain line ID.
The water level in your overflow should be no more than 2" lower then the water level in your display tank. The further the water falls as it enters your overflow the more noise it will make. The emergency overflow intake should be at or a little, 0.5 to 1.0", under the display tank water line.
The primary flow line intake must be at least 5" shorter then the emergency flow line, i.e. about 5" underwater, to prevent a vortex from forming and sucking air in. The max height depends on the water flow rate. Be prepared to adjust this height a bit.
The exhaust end, i.e. sump end, of both lines must be underwater to prevent noise.
Herbie overflows can be finicky. The water level in the overflow must stay within a narrow range. If it goes too high water flowing through the emergency overflow line will make noise. If it goes too low the primary flow line will suck air in and make noise.
IME it works best to clean the overflow weir and return pump intake then adjust the overflow water level so a little water trickles through the emergency overflow line during normal operation.
Also the fewer "T"s for equipment that clogs during normal use, e.g. media reactors, you have on the return line the better. None is best. As they clog they change the water flow which will change the water level in the overflow and may require an overflow water level adjustment.
When you get it all installed and adjusted turn the primary flow line off to make sure your emergency overflow line can handle the flow.
EDIT: It is possible to install a herbie overflow in an overflow with only one drain hole if the overflow is large enough to hold a "T" and a valve. You will have to reach down into the overflow to adjust the water level.
Last edited:
GrimReefer555
Member
Wouldn't that let air in below the gate, causing a loud, violent sump? Guess it would still be an upgrade from a durso, lol.
Also, I asked a local plumbing guru prior to setting mine up, and as my tank was already running, was thinking about installing a gate valve in the overflow box to make an easy conversion. He said that parts of the gate valve that usually don't contact water, when submerged, can expose metal parts in the valve to the tank water. In the end, I'm glad I tore it all down and did it more traditionally, but thought I'd at least report what I was told.
79chopperdr
I killed ALL that Coral!
Jonathan and Brian thanks for the info. Very helpful
TOM BLEVINS
New member
IT'S Herbie Hancock! HA:hammer:
Brian Prestwood
Premium Member
You are correct. My bad. It does require two lines. Sorry, didn't think that through. I've never tried a T.
