Any portrait photographers around?

marino420td

Premium Member
I am trying to learn outdoor portrait photography and I'm struggling with it. I took the family out yesterday and took a few shots (200+) and thought they all looked great on the camera. Loaded them onto the computer and they are a bit soft.

I would love to hear your technique for capturing tack sharp, outdoor portraits. Ambient light only as I don't own a flash.

Looking for information such as camera mode (manual, AV, TV, etc.), your preferred settings for close ups and full body shots, ISO, focus points, raw or jpeg, etc.

Here are a few examples of the results I'm getting straight out of the camera.

Hayden1.jpg


Hayden2.jpg


Leyton1.jpg
 
I do some portrait photography for family and friends. That rock structure is cool but the water line in the background of the top and bottom pictures are a bit distracting. Maybe crop those out. Get your older son to loosen up a bit. He looks almost angry. hehe.

The pictures look sharp enough to me at these resolutions. As long as the eyes are sharp. Did you shoot in RAW? The lighting looks nice and soft. Overcast days are the best times to shoot portraits because there aren't any harsh shadows to deal with.

As for camera settings, i always shoot in RAW, and in Av mode. Get the shallowest DOF possible to blur out the background but make sure you get the eyes sharp. Take as many shots as you possibly can. Do as many poses as possible. Also get the subjects to wear something less distracting. The black shirt with white lines really stand out. Earthtone colors with simple patterns or even solid colors works great. My siblings and our kids all took a family portrait last year for a Mother's Day gift and we all wore blue jeans and white shirts and it came out awesome.
 
Lots of variables in your questions. Whats your sharpness settings in the camera, the 30D is well known to be a bit soft out of the camera. I turned my sharpness up a bit in Picture Styles on my 30D. What lens are you using, some lenses are better (sharper) than others. Lots of Portrait shots that you will see have been processed and sharpened. Most images do need sharpening of some sort either in camera or in post processing, finding the right balance is key to getting that shot like we like. What is your Focus Mode, Manual, Auto, One shot, AI Servo, AI Focus(which is a useless feature in my eyes). Maybe some of these things need to be looked at and or changed..... just a guess on my part.
 
I agree with Sandman and ahuxmam. I did a little processing to one of the pics. It would have been better without the line in the upper left. But not a bad shot. Notice the backrounds. Just a step or two to the left and it would have been alot better.

Leyton1.jpg
 
I'm new to shooting raw images so excuse my ignorance about this subject.

All of these were shot with my Canon 30D and a Canon 70-200 F4 L lense. Hand held (which I believe is my sharpness problem). Manual mode. One shot with center point focus. I use back button focusing because I shoot a lot of sports. I would point the center focus on the subject's eyes, lock the focus then recompose the image. Press the shutter release to capture the image.

I agree that these are not the most appealing poses, backgrounds and facial expressions. I just chose these to give a good example of the problems I am experiencing.

One note about my oldest son- he freezes in front of the camera and I'm terrible at getting him to loosen up and be himself. Plus he is a tween and has lots huge gaps of missing teeth :) I kind of like his serious look sometimes.

I do take a lot of images. Over 200 in this shoot alone.

ahuxman- the camera is in standard picture style. sharpness is 3, contract- saturation and color tone are all 0.

Misled- I like what you did with the photo. Would you share your technique?

Do you think this photo is sharp enough to print as an 11 X 14?

Thanks for the help guys.
 
I used Photoshop elements. First I cropped, then a little contrast, then a small amount of sharpening.

The pic was already reduced in file size by photobucket. If I had an original to work with, 11 X 14 shouldn't be a problem. It might be ok, but you'd have to try. That's one of the reasons most of us use raw. You get more information from the shot and you have more options in post processing
 
Some of the misfocused shots could be caused by changing the focus plane when recomposing, this article does a good job of explaining how this can happen: http://duncandavidson.com/2008/09/focus-and-recompose-exposed.html.

It's definitely possible to get nice outdoor portraits without a flash, you'll just need to be mindful of your conditions.
When shooting portraits outdoors without flash I usually shoot with the following, basically the same as what Mr. Sandman suggested:

- AV mode in order to control the depth of field and use exposure compensation if the background is significantly darker or brighter than the subject.
- ISO as low as possible depending on conditions, usually 100 or 200 but will go higher in order to keep shutter speeds up to prevent motion blur when handholding.
- I always shoot in RAW
- Focus point will depend on how I'm framing the shot but for close ups I always focus on the eyes.
- Diffused light from clouds or shade can help a lot.

I use flash both on and off camera quite a bit outdoors but here are a couple snapshots that were ambient light only, please disregard the wild hair and food/dirt on my daughter's face, both were taken when she was playing in the yard and weren't meant to be formal portaits. :)


439196225_jZfUM-L.jpg
339653177_AGDyW-L.jpg


I used these two as examples because both of them were shot with a very thin depth of field using an 85mm lens at f/2.5 and f/2.0, respectively. If we estimate that the camera was six feet away from her when the shots were taken then the area in focus was approximately 1" from front to back. If I had swung the camera to left or right after locking focus the chances are very good that her eyes wouldn't have been in sharp focus and the images wouldn't have been worth keeping which gets back to my original comment about the focus plane changing when recomposing.


Back to the images you posted, here is an edit of the older boy. I increased saturation and contrast using adjustment layers, then flattened the image and ran an unsharp mask on it. I also cropped the image because it looked awkward to me with the boy being cut off at the legs and still having so much visible background above his head.

474823892_s6yrH-L.jpg


It looks like you had good diffused light for these shots, I would imagine they were taken on a cloudy day. If the light is harsher you can use a piece of white foamcore or even a piece of cardboard with some aluminum foil stapled to it as a reflector to provide some fill light. It's a low cost way of improving your shots when you don't have a flash readily available.

Hope this helps. Keep shooting and posting! If you decide to get a flash then there are a lot of other possibilities that you can explore.
 
swjim- that's the sharpness I'm looking for. I also have the 85mm f1.8 lense and often get very sharp photos from it. I thought I would try the 70-200 for this shoot and did not get the results.

I think the recomposition might have created some of my problem. BTW- the link you provided doesn't work. I also think camera shake had a lot to do with it. I also posted my problem on fredmiranda.com and got a lot of suggestions. Someone posted a camera shake test and I failed miserably :)

On your photos above, did you recompose after focusing on the eyes? If so, will you explain your method?

It's funny you mention the foamboard because I had one with me for this shoot. However it was such an overcast day that I really didn't need it.

As far as the crop on my image, I will also crop but I wanted to show everyone exactly what I got straight from the camera so they could analyze the entire photo.

Here are some photos from another shoot with my 85mm 1.8. I like the sharpness in these.

see, he does smile :)
IMG_8829.jpg


close up of my wife
Jilltouchedupcopy.jpg
 
Sorry about the link not working, let's try this: http://duncandavidson.com/2008/09/focus-and-recompose-exposed.html

You should be able to get sharp shots from your 70-200 as well, it's a great lens. If you think that you're not steady enough then I would go ahead and increase your ISO a bit in order to get faster shutter speeds. I shoot with a 30D too and they're pretty good about handling noise as long as you expose properly.

I'm sure on these shots that I was using the outer focus points. For the shot on the left I believe I shifted my body to the left slightly after getting the focus lock and fortunately was able to stay on the same plane. The one on the right I'm almost positive was not recomposed at all.
 
I can't tell you how to take your pictures but I can share with you how I take mine:

- I use fast lens. This allows me to blur the background and put more emphasis to my subject (mostly my kids).

- I crop close - again, to put more emphasis on my subject.

- I focus on the eyes - always. I think of shot then use the AF point that is closer the subject's eyes (often times, I use the upper right or upper left AF point close to the rule-of-third intersects).

- I take lots of photos. Keep shooting until your subjects feels comfortable with the camera. You don't want your photos to look too rigid and fake.

These tips works for me. HTH
 
Well he has a fast lens no doubt, an 85mm f/1.8 is my guess. I really like the image of your daughter in the red shirt. Instead of a straight-on snap shot it shows depth and emotion with the angle. You are doing a great job and have some life-long keepers of your entire family just in this thread!
 
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