Any problems/recommendations with this design?

[pacificdiver]

I've decided to add a mixing station to my basement sump room. I've never built a mixing station before, so I'm hoping someone can take a look at this design, and note any problems or changes I should make. I'd hate to get this thing built, only to realize I could have made some changes to simplify or improve things. I was planning on using 1.25" PVC.

(I've omitted a few things, such as the RO line to the auto-topoff reservoir, and the outflow from the system, which drives old water out for water changes)

The red/black parts are 1.25" CEPEX valves
The yellow parts are unions

Thanks in advance for your help...

NOTE: the DPC is the "divorce protection container" and will take a 3/8" line from the RO reservoir. There will be a float valve with a backup solenoid, but in case of dual failure, the line will drain to an empty 32G trash can with a flood sensor linked to Apex.

FRONT VIEW

CLOSEUP VIEW
<a href="https://ibb.co/b6G34GN"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/TwNTQNP/system-design-CLOSEUP.png" alt="system-design-CLOSEUP" border="0"></a>

 

[Vinny Kreyling]

Usually a mixing station is just 2 containers, 1 for RODI water the other to mix salt into for water changes with a pump between for mixing & pumping to the display.
Never saw 1 with a "just in case" container.
There are plenty of examples here if you do a search for mixing station.
1.25" piping is overkill IMHO, 1' will do just fine decreasing costs a bit too.

 

[pacificdiver]

Usually a mixing station is just 2 containers, 1 for RODI water the other to mix salt into for water changes with a pump between for mixing & pumping to the display.
Never saw 1 with a "just in case" container.
There are plenty of examples here if you do a search for mixing station.
1.25" piping is overkill IMHO, 1' will do just fine decreasing costs a bit too.

I'm the guy that can walk up to a display with 1000 units, and pick the one that has the 1-in-a-thousand defect that's destined to fail at the perfectly wrong time. It's basically a last resort protection against wiping out the hardwood floor.

Thanks for the tip on the 1" vs 1.25". I had been debating that. The main reason for the larger diameter was to speed things along and make draining the RODI can faster.

I've read through quite a few threads on mixing stations. Seems like there's a lot of variation on placement of valves and unions, which is my major concern. I suppose I should have stated that in the original post. Thanks for the feedback, though.

 

[sfsuphysics]

One thing you could do instead of having the "DPC" option is to simply create a drip tray under the setup. But knowing how expensive stuff like PVC sheeting is... yeah the brute is most definitely the cheaper setup, it's just quite a bit more bulky.

 

[pacificdiver]

One thing you could do instead of having the "DPC" option is to simply create a drip tray under the setup. But knowing how expensive stuff like PVC sheeting is... yeah the brute is most definitely the cheaper setup, it's just quite a bit more bulky.

Yeah, I've got plenty of space under the sump, and it's basically unused. I have an old Brute laying around, and a bunch of old RO tubing so I figure it's a cheap way to buy about 8-10 hours of intervention time. I'm paranoid about RO floods -I've seen a bad one that pretty much emulated the end of the world.