anybody w/ 200g + acrylic tanks?
- Thread starter Kigs
- Start date
Pros? Cons?
Untamed12
New member
I chose acrylic for my 400 because I like the clarity it offers over thick glass and I had to move it into my house.
I also believe it to be stronger than glass, although I've also seen stories of acrylic tanks failing...I just don't think mine will.
The fish have put numerous scratches in the acrylic, but I can remove them if they bother me.
I also believe it to be stronger than glass, although I've also seen stories of acrylic tanks failing...I just don't think mine will.
The fish have put numerous scratches in the acrylic, but I can remove them if they bother me.
Go with starphire if you can afford it and move it.
My display tanks are both acrylic, but the equivelant in a custom starphire of the last one I bought(the 240) would have cost 4500 instead of 2800. Coudnt swallow the price at the time. The 500 I am getting next summer will be a custom starfire build.
Man do I miss the days of taking a razorblade to the coralline and being done with it.
My display tanks are both acrylic, but the equivelant in a custom starphire of the last one I bought(the 240) would have cost 4500 instead of 2800. Coudnt swallow the price at the time. The 500 I am getting next summer will be a custom starfire build.
Man do I miss the days of taking a razorblade to the coralline and being done with it.
Kigs
In Memoriam
Price will definitely be one of the issues, but it also came down to not having any local builders that were skilled with glass construction and I wanted to avoid the heavy shipping fees plus the long wait for some of these out of state builders were approximating me with.
Also, if you remember, I have a bit of a weird design and it seems like it'll be much easier to build it in acrylic.
I thought they made special scrapers for acrylic tanks, is it really that much of a work?
Also, if you remember, I have a bit of a weird design and it seems like it'll be much easier to build it in acrylic.
I thought they made special scrapers for acrylic tanks, is it really that much of a work?
compared to glass?? absolutely. Even with the special scrapers you still have to be very careful and make absolutely sure every 5 passes or so there are no burrs in the plastic blade.
If you keep up on it weekly or more it isnt so bad. But for someone who usually waits a month or more to scrape the coralline, acrylic is a nightmare and a serious PITA
juniormc8704
New member
Go to your LFS and have them talk to perfecto (marineland)
I know its not a miracles tank, but the build quality on my 300 is nothing short perfect.
They also (for a charge) can build them custom.
If your LFS says different, go to another one, because they do offer it.
I would buy my 300 again in an instant.
I know its not a miracles tank, but the build quality on my 300 is nothing short perfect.
They also (for a charge) can build them custom.
If your LFS says different, go to another one, because they do offer it.
I would buy my 300 again in an instant.
"Umm fish?"
Premium Member
A guy in my local club keeps a 300 acrylic. In fact, that's where I went to my first "New Reefer" meeting. Gorgeous.
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-02/totm/index.php
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-02/totm/index.php
Untamed12
New member
Tangs...particularly the naso elegans as his spines have started to grow in.
Also...some fine scratching caused by the skin of a triggerfish that swam back and forth along the same spot too much. I polished those out pretty easily.
Oh yes, the sea urchin leaves pretty good scars...but only in the areas that are covered by coraline (areas I don't clean), 'cause that what it eats.
Someone else mentioned that you have to keep on top of cleaning acrylic...That's true. I try to run the mag cleaner over it every two days. Mostly, I can get the coraline off with my fingernail, but I've never allowed it to get out of control.
sfsuphysics
Active member
Not quite 200g+, but close, I got a 4x3x2 180 sitting in the garage as a temporary tank, and it is an impressive size, however the cons of scratching acrylic outweigh any clarity issues with glass, you can get by with 1/2" glass on anything 24" and under (with bracing of course). At that size there are few places which make that "standard" (in either glass or acrylic) so any job you go most likely will be custom.
Btw what type of Urchin damaged your acrylic? I've noticed mine while it seems like they may be going for coraline on the acrylic tend to prefer the stuff on the rocks (easier to eat?)
Btw what type of Urchin damaged your acrylic? I've noticed mine while it seems like they may be going for coraline on the acrylic tend to prefer the stuff on the rocks (easier to eat?)
turtleman9100
New member
anybody w/ 200g + acrylic tanks?
I have a 300 gallon acrylic cube, 48X48X30. I love it. I have gotten scratches on glass aquariums in the past that I could do nothing about. Although acrylic can scratch easily, you can easily buff them out. I love the fact that I don't rely on silicon to hold my panels together. Another great thing is me and one of my buddies were able to lift this tank with no problem. If it were glass, it would have taken 4 people. You can drill acrylic as much as you want and very easily. I have gone acrylic and I am here to stay.
I have a 300 gallon acrylic cube, 48X48X30. I love it. I have gotten scratches on glass aquariums in the past that I could do nothing about. Although acrylic can scratch easily, you can easily buff them out. I love the fact that I don't rely on silicon to hold my panels together. Another great thing is me and one of my buddies were able to lift this tank with no problem. If it were glass, it would have taken 4 people. You can drill acrylic as much as you want and very easily. I have gone acrylic and I am here to stay.
It took 10 people to move in my acrylic tank. It would not have been doable without a large crane if it was glass, and even then it might still have been impossible. It would most likely have been fabricated on site if it was glass.
I've posted this in the equipment forum a few time and I wish someone would stick this, but here goes:
* Acrylic is much "clearer" then even starphire/low iron glass. This is because the index of refraction of acrylic compared to water is much closer than that of glass.
* Acrylic scratches much easier.
* Acrylic scratches can be easily buffed both inside and out, even while the tank is full of water.
* Glass scratches can only be buffed with much effort outside, and never inside with livestock.
* Acrylic panels can bow leading to distortion and crazing if underbuilt.
* EVERY glass tank will fail. The question is when. The Silicone seam is not a permanent one. the larger the tank, the faster the failure towards the bottom (more pressure) on the seam. It might be 20 years, it might be 50 years, it might be 5 years, but it WILL happen.
* Acrylic if properly bonded and of proper thickness will never fail at a seam unless a large amount of impact stress (read sledgehammer) is applied.
* Glass can shatter, Acrylic is impact resistant (Kids)
* Acrylic will not yellow with age if it is Cell Cast. All Large custom tanks are Cell Cast Acrylic. Extruded acrylic will yellow as it degrades over time via ultraviolet light.
* Acrylic tanks will most often have much beefier eurobracing to offset the bowing effect.
* Acrylic tanks are not often suited to the "open top" look.
* You run the risk of permanent damage to acrylic if you park a metal halide directly over eurobracing without leaving enough (read many inches) for air movement. The heat can and will slowly melt and discolor the acrylic over time if intense enough.
* Large Acrylic tanks often come with Lexan lids which are MH safe if you want to cover the tank completely to reduce evaporation and still have halides.
* Acrylic is much lighter than glass
* Acrylic tanks built on site are often much harder to construct than glass. This has to do with the exact tolerances needed to bond large sheets of acrylic and the cleanliness of the work area, and the toxic fumes generated. Glass tanks are much easier constructed as the seams can be cut and reset if the seam is not married perfectly.
Depending on the placement and size of the tank Acrylic and glass can both be acceptable choices. Just make sure you know the pros and cons for your installation.
I've posted this in the equipment forum a few time and I wish someone would stick this, but here goes:
* Acrylic is much "clearer" then even starphire/low iron glass. This is because the index of refraction of acrylic compared to water is much closer than that of glass.
* Acrylic scratches much easier.
* Acrylic scratches can be easily buffed both inside and out, even while the tank is full of water.
* Glass scratches can only be buffed with much effort outside, and never inside with livestock.
* Acrylic panels can bow leading to distortion and crazing if underbuilt.
* EVERY glass tank will fail. The question is when. The Silicone seam is not a permanent one. the larger the tank, the faster the failure towards the bottom (more pressure) on the seam. It might be 20 years, it might be 50 years, it might be 5 years, but it WILL happen.
* Acrylic if properly bonded and of proper thickness will never fail at a seam unless a large amount of impact stress (read sledgehammer) is applied.
* Glass can shatter, Acrylic is impact resistant (Kids)
* Acrylic will not yellow with age if it is Cell Cast. All Large custom tanks are Cell Cast Acrylic. Extruded acrylic will yellow as it degrades over time via ultraviolet light.
* Acrylic tanks will most often have much beefier eurobracing to offset the bowing effect.
* Acrylic tanks are not often suited to the "open top" look.
* You run the risk of permanent damage to acrylic if you park a metal halide directly over eurobracing without leaving enough (read many inches) for air movement. The heat can and will slowly melt and discolor the acrylic over time if intense enough.
* Large Acrylic tanks often come with Lexan lids which are MH safe if you want to cover the tank completely to reduce evaporation and still have halides.
* Acrylic is much lighter than glass
* Acrylic tanks built on site are often much harder to construct than glass. This has to do with the exact tolerances needed to bond large sheets of acrylic and the cleanliness of the work area, and the toxic fumes generated. Glass tanks are much easier constructed as the seams can be cut and reset if the seam is not married perfectly.
Depending on the placement and size of the tank Acrylic and glass can both be acceptable choices. Just make sure you know the pros and cons for your installation.
