anyone have a water pressure gauge for RO?

Piazzon12

New member
I finally purchased an 100GPD RO/DI Unit, but I feel like it has poor performance. I'm wondering if my house has poor water pressure, and wanted to borrow a meeter if anyone happens to have one.
 
purewaterclub*com 100GPD 6 stage, 0 ppm (PW-22-37). Actually bought it through e-bay because it's cheaper, but it's the same place.

Can a pressure gauge be purchased locally at Lowes or something?
 
Thats the same one I have. What type of performance are you getting?

I would think you should be able to pick an inline gauge up from any of the big hardware stores. If not, you could try a place like Tri-Bros Supply. The hardest part will be figuring out all the adapters you will need to get it to fit! I had a heck of a time getting mine all hooked up... So many different fittings were needed to hook it up for my needs.
 
How long have you had it running? Most membranes need about 24-36 hours to reach peak perfomance. I have 75gpd unit and my water pressure is about 45psi and it makes about 50-55 gal in 24 hours.
 
ok thanks, I'll try to pick up a pressure gauge tonight, and will turn it back on to let it run to see if things improve... the amount a waste water just drives me crazy!
 
Just a little heads up on membranes. A 100 GPD membrane has a rejection rate of 90% While a 75 GPD has a rate of 98% . So a 75 GPD is a better choice IMO. Think of it this way if you have water comming in at 200 PPM before the membrane a 100 GPD will give you 20 PPM after the membrane while a 75 GPD will give you 4PPM Just something to think about. You can always change the membrane to a lower GPD but u also need to add a flow restrictor
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11504169#post11504169 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Dave VG
The colder the water temp the less they produce.

That was the next thing I was going to say. Over the summer I got about 1 gallon every 10min. Now it takes about 14 min to get a gallon. I have read if your water is too cold you can buy like 25' of line and coil it up in a bucket of water with a heater in it and use that as the supply line. Doing this will allow the water to heat up, thus causing a more productive filter.
 
FYI according to them,
Water Purity Reference:
(1.)Tap or well water(300 PPM) ---> (2.)After RO system(20 PPM) ---> (3.)After DI filter(0 PPM)
 
Your concern is with output quantity not quality correct? You get 0ppm with yours? I can't seem to get mine to 0 it's at about 2-3.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11504779#post11504779 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 03Mach
Your concern is with output quantity not quality correct? You get 0ppm with yours? I can't seem to get mine to 0 it's at about 2-3.
I get 0 PPM
u should be concerned with quality not quanity.
I run 2 10" canisters with DI material also
 
at the moment, I'm concerned with quantity... later I will be concerned with quality.
Right now anythings better than the raw tapwater (w/ startright conditioner) that I've been using for the last 1.5yrs. I've started seeing high phosphate levels which is why I went RO/DI.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11504554#post11504554 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by stressed damsel
Though water temp does affect productivity it still does nothing when it comes to the output of TDS in the water...

Didn't say it did affect TDS just productivity.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11504894#post11504894 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Piazzon12
at the moment, I'm concerned with quantity... later I will be concerned with quality.
Right now anythings better than the raw tapwater (w/ startright conditioner) that I've been using for the last 1.5yrs. I've started seeing high phosphate levels which is why I went RO/DI.

You should be more concerned with quality... will save u a lot of headaches in the future.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11504894#post11504894 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Piazzon12
at the moment, I'm concerned with quantity... later I will be concerned with quality.
Right now anythings better than the raw tapwater (w/ startright conditioner) that I've been using for the last 1.5yrs. I've started seeing high phosphate levels which is why I went RO/DI.
You should be more concerned with quality... will save u a lot of headaches in the future.
 
Back
Top