Anyone keeping Blacktip sharks? Feeding Questions

fishmon

New member
I have a client with a ~1500gallon tank housing 2 Blacktips (~2') with Assorted other Bony fish and a few hundred pounds of live rock. My question is how much do you feed, I have read a lot about and talked to many people on this subject and have many different answers. Currently I am feeding a mix of fresh (saltwater) fish, clams, scallops, etc. until gorged every other day. They are fat, and healthy. Water temp is about 74 to keep metabolism a little slower, The sharks are happy but my water changes are becoming a pain in the arse. Any suggestions? Partial water changes are 300 gallons, and the tank is viewed from all sides in a car dealership, beautiful tank, pain to work on.
 
We have one at work and we only feed it once a week. Sometimes we feed it a little bit during the week but not much.
 
When I was at the Newport Aquarium, the guy who takes care of the sharks stated that they are fed just enough to keep them from hunting the other fish in the tank. No doubt they have a more scientific way to determine this value, but it is surprisingly low.
 
Last year in Tahiti I tried feeding my wife to them

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what kind of filtration it has?

I had one , I fed him a 6" or larger fish every day, had him in a 1000 gal. pond the water was clear.

Check with your local seafood store, i bough discontinued fish from them at a very low price, mostly parrot fish, they eat anything even my hand...

Ed
 
It has plenty of filtration, sand filters, uv, ozone, bio tower, skimmers, sump w/ filter socks........the water stays clear, just the nitrates stay high and I get Cyano if I don't keep it changed weekly.
 
I guess the cyano can't be in a costumer's tank.

I did a 32K tank once for some lemon sharks,nurse and manta rays, the exibit hired an "shark expert" to talk to visitors and he said that the nitrites were high and the sharks would die, and that we needed a mega ozonizer to get them down, we got the sharks form sea world orlando, when i called them they told me nitorgen derivates do nothing to a shark and ozone will kill them faster than any other fish if it goes in the water. This was in '91 , I was not that experienced.

If you raise the oxidation potential(redox) the cyano will go away.A bigger ozonizer? but with lots of carbon to keep them safe.

I just talked to a friend at a public aquarium, he said an algae filter will out compete the cyano for nutrients. Basically a tank full of macro algae with lots of light as part of the filtration.

pics?

Ed
 
HI

Not that I have any personal experience with sharks, but what I've hear from people dealing with such animals in captivity there was one thing they all said: Never ever use any Ozone, it will kill them even at the lowest possible concentration.
They also said that the sharks reacted badly on freshly made seawater, they let the stuff sit for a week before adding it to a tank. In terms of filtration, big skimmers, UV, Carbon and quite surprisingly trickle filters to oxidise the Nitrite and Ammonia to Nitrate. Sharks can tolerate huge amounts of Nitrite and Ammonia, far more than any other fish. Don't ask me why.
I would stay away from Ozone

Jens
 
Sharks can tolerate ammonia levels in their blood that would kill most other organisms. It is thought that this helps balance the osmotic pressure with the surrounding seawater. Bony fish depend on thier kidneys to do this.
 
I thought that black tips needed at least a 10,000 gallon aquarium? Two of them in a 1500 gallon tank is bio overload. I was talking to a guy with a 30,000 gallon aquarium that said he didn't end up getting a black tip because its too much bio load for his aquarium. I dunno, not trying to be a buzz kill just voicing what i've heard.
 
I am not a shark expert, but I am drawing from my experience in the public aquarium field at an institution with a big shark collection.

We fed the sharks 3-4x per week. I cannot remember specifically what we fed (I recall chopped squid and mackeral), but we also used a proprietary vitamin. Occasionally, the sharks would supplement their diet with a tankmate.

From my experience, nitrates are not much of an issue with sharks. Public aquariums often have high levels (1000+ mg/L range would not be uncommon). I am not kidding. They keep the lighting dim and scrub algae like crazy. A day at the office is spent in SCUBA gear srubbing algae. Imagine having to hold it while you worry if that 8 ft shark thinks that your leg would make a nice appetizer.

Water changes on tanks half a million gallons and larger get really expensive and difficult. Consider the logistics of mixing salt by the pallet. We changed maybe 5% per month. In order to do this you need heavy mechanical filtration, biological filtration, and ozone. I would also invest in a big scum sucking protein skimmer. Something rated for like a 5k tank.

By all means use ozone. Just test your water frequently for residual oxidants using HACH DPD total chlorine test. This test is cheap and colormetric. You do not need a fancy spectrophotometer, just mix the reagents and look at it. Any visible pink color is bad news. I like the 25ml test. Get an ORP meter to help manange the ozone dosage. You do not need some super high efficiency unit. Do not follow the notion that bigger is better. Just enough ozone to get water clear. Do not trouble yourself with disinfection.

If you are using IO or similar salt you need to worry about secondary oxidants from the bromine. I would recommend running the treated water through carbon to prevent problems. Also, good insurance is to run the post ozone contact water through a tower of bioballs to help offgas any ozone.

What are you going to do with the sharks when they outgrow the tank? We kept 4' pacific blacktips in a 10,000 gal tank and it could get pretty exciting in there. I cannot image having them in a smaller tank.

These guys are going to really dirty up the tank. I would be looking at big sand filters for swimming pools. Here big is better. Baker Hydro makes a good 3 ft dia. one. Get a multiport valve also. You pipe the waste on this thing to a drain. When the pressure gauge reads high, you turn off the pump turn the valve to backwash; restart the pump and wait for the water to run fairly clear. With one of these you can clean your mech filter in no time and with little fuss. Of course, the more you backwash the bigger the water change.

Sorry, if I have been a bit long winded. I saw the post and I had to chime in.

Hope this helps.

Jim
 
Jvetter, I have to disagree with you on the ozone reccomendation. Ozone is the best way to kill sharks out there. Any small controller blip, and you have dead sharks. Its just not worth running.
 
RichConley, ozone is an easy way to kill anything. I personally would not recommend using a controller for the very reason that you gave. You can manually set the ozone production rate of a generator to provide a constant rate which past experience has shown to be "safe". In this case, the ORP meter does not turn the ozone generator on and off. The meter is only a tool for information to make management decisions. During the initial period one needs to determine the best amount of ozone to use (manage the generator) through 1. testing for residual oxidants with a HACH DPD Total Chlorine test, 2. ORP meter readings, and 3. observation of the animals and the water. I absolutely agree that ozone needs to taken seriously.

I am not necessarily an advocate for ozone use, I do not use it on my home aquarium. And probably for most reef aquariums it is not needed. Ozone makes things so much more complicated and definitely carries a risk of harm to the tank from overdosing. But there is a place for ozone, and given the situation it may be an option to help reduce (not eliminate) the need for big water changes. I was really only trying to describe my experience with managing water quality in large systems containing sharks.
 
Good info jvetter, you know what your talking about. Many fish farms, aquariums, other aquaculture operations, heck...even seaworld use ozone on a regular basis as a means for better water quality. Faulty equipment can lead to fishkills but if proper safeguards are put in place you should'nt have a problem. :)
 
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