Anyone try AuraLed?

My other tank was a 56 gallon column and I had a marineland power compact light on it that is now on my daughter's 29 gallon tank now and her tank is way brighter than my 220 and her corals are doing great. Don't get me wrong the red, white, and blue auraleds make the tank look great but I just don't think it puts out enough light for photosynthetic creatures. You guys are right about it possibly being new tank syndrome also but I am pretty confident in saying that its the lights.
 
BubbaBoBobBrain said:
My other tank was a 56 gallon column and I had a marineland power compact light on it that is now on my daughter's 29 gallon tank now and her tank is way brighter than my 220 and her corals are doing great. Don't get me wrong the red, white, and blue auraleds make the tank look great but I just don't think it puts out enough light for photosynthetic creatures. You guys are right about it possibly being new tank syndrome also but I am pretty confident in saying that its the lights.
Click to expand...

So are you going to try a different light or stick it out and see how it goes?
 
BubbaBoBobBrain said:
The tank was not the problem. My parameters where always good. I had the tank running for over a month before I got these lights. And the anemones where the last things to go in there. I had them in my other tank that I broke down and added to my 220. It has to be the lights. Even my LFS said it was the lights because of the lack of wattage. My LFS says it doesn't matter what type of light you have( led, halide, t5, pc) if you want to keep a reef you need at least 3 watts per gallon. And he gets his info from going to shows and meetings where there are marine biologists. I should have done more research before jumping in to buy a cheap led setup. That's what happens when you go down the cheap path.
Click to expand...

Your LFS is wrong. Whoever told you that doesn't have a clue.

You cannot compare wattage between MH, t5s and LEDs. The 3 watts per gal "rule" was meant for old lighting, it simply doesn't apply to LEDs.

The auraleds aren't PAR monsters by any means, but they put out sufficient light for most coral. If your livestock had very high light requirements it's possible they weren't getting enough, but more likely it was something else. You should not be adding nems to a 1-month old setup.

Sorry about your losses.
 
Has anyone had succesful communication with Rob at Auraled in the last five days? Three unanswered emails (Friday, Monday, Tuesday), and the phone either goes straight to busy or rings with no pic up. I have been trying to address a significant issue I have with my lights, and i want to give him the benefit of the doubt, but it feels like he's ducking me. If I am mistaken and we resolve this, I will be happy to give him a corrective post, but so far I have no responses, and absolutely terrible PAR measures. (35 at the sand, 115 1 inch below the surface.)
 
answer auraled / order

answer auraled / order

... his voicemail is full, email not answered.... maybe on vacation ?

I would order mine today IF I could get a confirmation on my design.... AND
a fairly guaranteed delivery date.

:headwallblue:
 
answer auraled / order

answer auraled / order

... his voicemail is full, email not answered.... maybe on vacation ?

I would order mine today IF I could get a confirmation on my design.... AND
a fairly guaranteed delivery date.

but noticed that the ebay listings, however, are now down to only 2 !!!!


:headwallblue:
 
I lowered my lights to maybe 3 inches off the water, which resulted in less blockage from the euro brace as well as less distance to travel, and my PAR readings are now:
135 just below the water surface
90 six or seven inches down. Better slightly, but no where near what it should be for a coral growing light. very worried.
 
I am going to have to ride it out with the Auraled's for now and hope for the best. And Fryman is right I cant count out new tank syndrome for sure but I am almost 100% sure its not that. I made sure my parameters were all perfect before my anemones went in my tank. I started the tank up in the beginning of April and didnt get the lights until around May 25. I put the anemones in last, around the July 1. So I could be wrong about the lights being the problem, but, until I can get my hands on my reef clubs par meter I guess I really shouldnt complain about the lights, because although they arent as bright as my daughters power compact they do make my tank look good, I do like the colors. So hopefully I can get the par meter soon to confirm what the problem is.
 
Guys just a heads up from me. Rob emailed me today my system is ready. He said Wednesday so pretty close time wise. He is going to call me later so I can meet one of his trucks tomorrow. If I get it tomorrow, work might be intruding here, I will try and post some pictures and PAR readings this weekend. I'm excited hope it works out:celeb1:
 
Osteomata said:
I lowered my lights to maybe 3 inches off the water, which resulted in less blockage from the euro brace as well as less distance to travel, and my PAR readings are now:
135 just below the water surface
90 six or seven inches down. Better slightly, but no where near what it should be for a coral growing light. very worried.
Click to expand...

Very understandable to be worried. That shouldn't be, those values are terrible. What does Rob say about it? Can you return them? Something isn't right.

What's the wattage on your setup? What meter are you using, & did you test it on another light source?

I think it's a really good idea to test your PAR. You can't go just by looks. When I first tried the PAR sensor out in what seemed to be a brightly lit room I thought it wasn't working because the readings were so low. Then I tried the sensor under bright sun and it goes through the roof...

Even 6-month old T5s have significantly less PAR output than new ones, and they look pretty much the same. So my main take from thus experience is when in doubt, measure. You can borrow a meter from your local reef club or even just a serious reefer in your area (maybe try an ad in craigslist).

I actually bought a sensor now & I'm glad I did.
 
Rob does not say anything about it because he will not answer my emails. I have sent four of them so far (last Friday, Monday, Wednesday, Thursday) and he has not responded at all. His phone either rings without pick up or goes straight to busy.

The wattage is, iirc, 170W. Four strings of blue, three of white, plus the little red lights.

I am using an Apogee PAR meter I borrowed from a helpful local club member, which I tested on his system prior to using it on mine. It is working great.



Fryman said:
Very understandable to be worried. That shouldn't be, those values are terrible. What does Rob say about it? Can you return them? Something isn't right.

What's the wattage on your setup? What meter are you using, & did you test it on another light source?

I think it's a really good idea to test your PAR. You can't go just by looks. When I first tried the PAR sensor out in what seemed to be a brightly lit room I thought it wasn't working because the readings were so low. Then I tried the sensor under bright sun and it goes through the roof...

Even 6-month old T5s have significantly less PAR output than new ones, and they look pretty much the same. So my main take from thus experience is when in doubt, measure. You can borrow a meter from your local reef club or even just a serious reefer in your area (maybe try an ad in craigslist).

I actually bought a sensor now & I'm glad I did.
Click to expand...
 
I have adjusted my auraled position as best I can possibly make it, three inches off the water, carefully aligned to limit interference from bracing, and here is what I am getting for PAR readings
1" below water surface: 138
6" down, top of coral: 93
20" down, at sandbed: 46

The only questions to be determined now is if I have spent $850 on a light fixture tha will eventually allow most of my coral to die, and if the manufacturer of the light is willfully dodging my emails.
 
Osteomata said:
I have adjusted my auraled position as best I can possibly make it, three inches off the water, carefully aligned to limit interference from bracing, and here is what I am getting for PAR readings
1" below water surface: 138
6" down, top of coral: 93
20" down, at sandbed: 46

The only questions to be determined now is if I have spent $850 on a light fixture tha will eventually allow most of my coral to die, and if the manufacturer of the light is willfully dodging my emails.
Click to expand...

If it were me I wouldn't use the light on my coral. Were you replacing another fixture that you can put back?

If you paid using Paypal, I believe you can submit a claim for a refund and he will at least have to respond, or else Paypal will refund you the money automatically. I hear Paypal is rather buyer-biased in their fraud investigations.

Or if you used a CC, you can contact your CC company.

Hope it works out for you.
 
Fryman, sre you happy with yours all in all..... how long you had them operational
??

anyone have a guess why Osteo's are not producing..

Is it possible, if Rob has shop help, that a double string got wired into series thus dimming them...

OSTEO.. do you have any pictures of your setup with the lights so we can "see" them
 
Well...I have heard enough. I just placed my order with RapidLED for the biocube 29 kit and 2 color dimming kit. Im really sorry to see you guys having problems, I hope that AuraLED makes it right for everyone but I wouldn't hold my breath. I just dont think those sign modules have enough spunk to get the job done. Hopefully my cree xp-e and xp-g's will!
 
Thanks for that reminder Fryman. I paid through paypal, and just started a case through their resolution center. We will see if that prompts a response.

Someone asked about pics earlier: I haven't taken any but will see about doing so. I can say that the lights look pretty bright, when off the tank, the blues look bright on the tank, but the whites look kinda puny on the tank. However, the PAR readings from the blue and from the white, when turned on seperately, are very close.

Fryman said:
If it were me I wouldn't use the light on my coral. Were you replacing another fixture that you can put back?

If you paid using Paypal, I believe you can submit a claim for a refund and he will at least have to respond, or else Paypal will refund you the money automatically. I hear Paypal is rather buyer-biased in their fraud investigations.

Or if you used a CC, you can contact your CC company.

Hope it works out for you.
Click to expand...
 
has anyone had ANY contact with them in the last 3 weeks?
I am getting no answer, voicemail full, and no email inquiries returned since I first spoke with them 3 weeks ago....

Seems like that company is gone before it got started. They have a good idea, it could be tweaked and upgraded some so it seems... there are still 2 ebay listings
 
Last I heard from him was last Thursday. Have not been able to get him by phone email or text since then either. Unfortunately I ha no choice but to open a Paypal claim myself on Tuesday. As of today he has not responded to them either. Kind of a shame he seemed like good guy who just got overwhelmed with orders I guess
 
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