Anyone use limewater (kalk) via ATO?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13178718#post13178718 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Esquare

Closed house due to a/c
Fixed by venting the Skimmer directly to outside air. Also, a mesh mod to my ER RS-100 both increased my air flow and seemed to incorporate the outside air better as it raised my ph a little more than just the venting.

I am considering doing this with my skimmer. How significant was the improvement?
 
Serpent
The improvement was only a little (.05 to .07) until I did the mesh mod and then it was significant (.20 to .25)

Tswifty
As Serpent stated, the reactor allows the top off water to become saturated with kalk prior to being added to the tank. My reactor has the ro/di from my ATO enter at the bottom (the clear tube at the back of the black box) and exit at the top (the blue tube). The ro/di enters at the bottom and slightly stirs the calcium hydroxide. The new water causes the volume already in the reactor to overflow out the blue line into the sump. The water that is in the reactor is mixed every 4 hours for 5 minutes via a mj400 pump located under the reactor in the black box (I’ll get a pic as this is a unique setup I think). The mj400 draws water in from the top quarter of the reactor via an internal acrylic tube (draws water from the top and expels at the bottom thoroughly mixing the contents). New kalk is added via the 1 ½ inch slip fitting that was converted to a access port.

Any problems with over dosing of kalk due to too much evaporation can be alleviated with 2 solenoid switches tied to your controller that changes the top off water from routing through the reactor to straight to the sump if the ph rises above a predetermined point.
 
Here are some more pics. In the first you can see under the black box. In the second pic you can see the internal tube that goes to the intake of the mj400 (I must have snapped the pic as it started mixing because you can start to see the cloud rise). The third is while mixing. The fourth and fifth are of the pump connections underneath.

One other point, make sure your ato can’t turn on for about a ½ hour after mixing or else you’ll get a snowstorm in your tank.



179058Underneath.jpg


179058Tube.jpg


179058Mixing.jpg


179058Pump.jpg


179058Pump2.jpg
 
Thanks for the pictures... that helps out a lot.

So basically the reactor just increases dwell time with the Kalk while keeping it from clogging pump and dispersing throughout the ATO reservoir?

So then every time your tank tops off it's fed out of the reactor?

Also, what type of kalk mix do you use, or are you using the Mrs. Wages Pickling Lime?
 
The reactor keeps a reservoir of water saturated with kalk, which is replenished by the ato. I like this, as I am able to keep my ro/di reservoir pure. I have the ro/di res plumbed to my salt mix bin and to a spigot for when I need pure water for various things like rinsing off stuff.

I am currently using esv calcium hydroxide but will probably try pickling lime in the future. I went with the esv as it is my first time trying kalk and I didn't want to take chances till I had it figured out.

My design for the reactor is different in that the pump is mounted underneath and the ato enters from the bottom. I went this way to keep as clean looking as possible. I got the 4 ½” acrylic tube for about $40.00 for a 6’ section and the black acrylic and clear acrylic flat pieces as cut offs for about $9.00. So the entire thing cost me about $70.00 and I have 4’ of tube left over for future projects.
 
I just want to make sure I have this correct:

1. The ATO unit signals the pump in the RO/DI reservoir to fill the sump.

2. The pump pumps the RO/DI water out of the RO/DI reservoir, and into the Kalk reactor.

3. The RO/DI water then enters through the bottom of the reactor, and pushes the previously Kalk saturated water out of the top of the reactor into the sump.

How did you decide how large to make the reactor's reaction chamber?
 
Here is a pic of a slightly different design:

DSCN4155.jpg


As far as reaction chamber size, it doesn't have to be all that big. Its relative to how often you want to fill it and how much evaporation you replace each day. The object is to dose the saturated kalk water without dosing the kalk particles in the bottom.
 
ok so that one "stirs" from the side.

Is the red line the RO/DI feed line?

What are the 2 lines coming out of the top of the reactor? I'm assuming one goes to the sump... what is the other one for?
 
Thanks for the diagram... I got it now.

The only point I still am a unclear on is... when is the reactor signaled to dose the tank?

Does it just "top off" the evaporated tank water with the kalk saturated water, or does it go in at some other rate?
 
I feed mine by a dosing pump so it drips at a predetermined drip rate.

However, many people feed their ATO directly through their reactor. Given that the pH of kalk >9, you just want to make sure you aren't flooding your tank with too much at a time. If your ATO is functioning normal, this should not be an issue.
 
I should add, don't feel you have to go out and buy one. I am a gadget freak so I love new toys. There are many cheap and easy DIY designs out there.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13180922#post13180922 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by serpentman
I feed mine by a dosing pump so it drips at a predetermined drip rate.

However, many people feed their ATO directly through their reactor. Given that the pH of kalk >9, you just want to make sure you aren't flooding your tank with too much at a time. If your ATO is functioning normal, this should not be an issue.
Ok... I got it.

I'm going to have to monitor my evaporation rate for the next few days to see just how much I would be adding if I used the ATO reservoir.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13180928#post13180928 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by serpentman
I should add, don't feel you have to go out and buy one. I am a gadget freak so I love new toys. There are many cheap and easy DIY designs out there.
Oh believe me... I have a lot of other projects I could throw $200 or $300 at :lol:

If I do go with a reactor, it will more than likely be a DIY job... but I was having a little trouble understanding how the reactor functioned.

If it is dripping in at a rate different than the ATO I can understand the need for a reactor, or separate reservoir. However, what is the benefit of using a reactor if it is hooked to the ATO vs. just using the ATO reservoir? Better stirred kalk?
 
I should add, don't feel you have to go out and buy one. I am a gadget freak so I love new toys. There are many cheap and easy DIY designs out there.

You say that like it's a bad thing!:rollface:

Tswifty, Serpent's design is the by far the most used design and the GEO is probably the most copied. I just like to be different.

The nice thing about the reactor is that you incorporate it with another piece of essential equipmet, the ATO.
 
There is some debate about the kalk losing it's effectiveness if exposed to air for long periods but Randy Holmes Farley did an article wherein he felt it was minimized. He called it a still reservoir I think.
 
I think that Randy uses a still reservoir himself. If he uses it, it's gotta work.

That was the method I used first while I built my reactor.

You can cut down on the cost of the reactor significantly by using PVC but you may want to incorporate a clear top so you can see in.
 
Didn't have time to read every post but..... I have does kalk for about a year or so with a very simple set-up. A five gallon bucket with a lid. There's a hole for the tubing connected to a aqualifter, the other tube runs into the sump & Spectra pure ato unit to control water level. That's it. Simple.
I mix about two to three table spoons per gallon of water in the five gallon bucket and adjust from there. As the cal requirements changed, I added more kalk to the water. ....Clean the bucket about once every 6 months.
I have never had a problem with overdosing...just start off slow and give it (tank water) time to adjust before adding more kalk.
Good Luck.
 
That's what I would like to do... mainly because it seems like a pretty simple hands off concept.

I fill my RO/DI reservoir about once a week, so it would be great if I could cut back "my end" of the dosing part to once a week.

What type of kalk mix are you using?
 
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