Apex Power Bar Management Question

RDtrack

New member
Hi

I'm working on a 120 build and just bought my first Apex, the Apex Gold package. In addition I purchased the WXM module to control my MP-40 and possibly an additional MP-40

Question is I'm not sure what eight items I should plug into and which two i shouldn't and should just plug into my power strip.

Here is what I have;

1. Emperor 50 Watt UV Sterilizer
2. Sicce Syncra 4.0 Return Pump
3. Eheim 1000 Pump - GFO Reactor and Carbon Reactor (Split)
4. Finnex 500 Watt Titanium Heater (w/controller)
5. Vertex Omega 150 Skimmer
6. Vortech MP-40
7. Kessil 160we Light
8. ATI 48' Dimmable Sun Power w/Controller
9. Tunze Osmolator - ATO
10. GHL Doser 2.0

11. Modem
12. Apex Controller

Currently I'm thinking of plugging in everything but GHL Doser and Tunze (ATO) along with the common sense ones of the Apex and Modem.

I was debating between the Tunze (ATO) and my ATI light. As I understand the Apex can't control the ATI Light. But I was thinking that I would use the Apex to just turn on power at a certain time and shut it off. In addition it could kill the light if there is too much heat.

Any thoughts?

Thanks
Jason
 
Hi

I'm working on a 120 build and just bought my first Apex, the Apex Gold package. In addition I purchased the WXM module to control my MP-40 and possibly an additional MP-40

Question is I'm not sure what eight items I should plug into and which two i shouldn't and should just plug into my power strip.

Here is what I have;

1. Emperor 50 Watt UV Sterilizer - yes because I turn it off if tank gets too hot in the Summer
2. Sicce Syncra 4.0 Return Pump - yes because I turn it off if my emergency float switch (low sump) triggers
3. Eheim 1000 Pump - GFO Reactor and Carbon Reactor (Split) - yes because my various pump cords are hard to get to and Apex can turn it off easily
4. Finnex 500 Watt Titanium Heater (w/controller) - yes because Apex provides redundant control
5. Vertex Omega 150 Skimmer - in my case, yes, because I have float switches in my skimmate container; otherwise no
6. Vortech MP-40 - no because WXM provides full control
7. Kessil 160we Light - no because I use the VDM module which provides full control
8. ATI 48' Dimmable Sun Power w/Controller - yes because you can control based on tank temperature
9. Tunze Osmolator - ATO - yes, because you may want to employ redundant float switches
10. GHL Doser 2.0 - no good reason to connect this to the Apex that I can think of.
11. Modem
12. Apex Controller

My thoughts above (I have many of the same components) ....
 
I don't plug anything in there that stays on all the time. Right now that's just power for the lights. The intensity and color is controlled by APEX. I also have my pumps plugged into it just for feed cycle control and energy monitoring.
 
My thoughts above (I have many of the same components) ....

Thanks for the answers.

I know I could research, and will, but do I need an additional module to connect extra float switches?

Also are their apex specific float switches? I've heard of the float switches used for a back up to the Tunze ATO and in the skimmer cup. Something that I was debating doing.

Also thanks for confirming what I thought about connecting my ATI lights.

Jason
 
The apex module can take a single switch directly connected to the din socket, but it can handle 6 which requires either buying a breakout box or making one for yourself. Float switches are not 'apex specific', most low voltage reed-based switches (like Madison brand floats) will work.
 
Can I ask how you have your mounted. I'm extremely interested in your low volume sump one and the one you have in your skimmer.

Does anyone make a magnetic float switch?

I take it that you indicated to the apex for you low volume one that if the float ever turns off it was to sound an alarm?

Thanks
Jason
 
Can I ask how you have your mounted. I'm extremely interested in your low volume sump one and the one you have in your skimmer.

Does anyone make a magnetic float switch?

I take it that you indicated to the apex for you low volume one that if the float ever turns off it was to sound an alarm?

Thanks
Jason

This is how I have my float switches setup. I use these switches. They are high quality ones that include a nice little removable mounting bracket. I remove the included suction cups and epoxy the mounting bracket to a cheap magnetic cleaner and use the dry side magnet to hold the float switches in place. I mount two switches to each magnet cleaner. My ATO floats are setup in parallel and are redundant. Then I have a high level and low level set of switches that notify me (via the Apex) if my sump level is too low or too high. Too High also shuts my skimmer off.

This is the switch I use:
http://premiumaquatics.com/products/level-controller-repl-float-sensor-kit.html

Here is a photo of the switch itself with it's removable bracket.
image_zps9gu7haof.jpg


This is my Too High and Too Low float switches epoxied to the wetside of the magnet cleaner.

image_zps053dd0b1.jpg


image_zpse0ab4c99.jpg


image_zps9d219656.jpg


The dryside holds them in place. It also makes it very easy to adjust my sump level. All I need to do is slide the magnet up or down.
image_zps53c41cbe.jpg
 
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Can I ask how you have your mounted. I'm extremely interested in your low volume sump one and the one you have in your skimmer.

Does anyone make a magnetic float switch?

I take it that you indicated to the apex for you low volume one that if the float ever turns off it was to sound an alarm?

Thanks
Jason

I actually have 18 switches of various kinds in my system - can you spell 'overkill' :lol: I never rely on a single switch to control anything so most are done in redundant pairs. For the sump, I simply mounted a pair of floats low down in the return section so that if they trigger, the apex alarm sounds and the main pump shuts down. When I bought the floats they came with the ability to be threaded into regular PVC pipe, so that is how I have them mounted. In the case of my skimmer, I actually bought the Avast skimmate container which already has as single pressure switch in it; I just added a second float switch.
 
I have a dimmable ATI and it works much better and is more reliable staying powered up all the time. I understand your concern with wanting to kill the power if the temp get to high but I strongly suggest you only kill the power based on temp and not turn off the power any other time.
 
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