Hey guys, I bought a used 12g Nanocube off a guy on craigslist and to be honest I wasnt fully prepared for SW. I know my stuff from planted freshwater really well so I didnt think it was that bad. After A week I thought it was pretty easy. I did a 50% w/c with RO water and tested my water. There was no livestock when I bought it except for a few crabs, snails, and ofcourse liverock and sand. I had 0.5ppm of Phosphates and 5ppm of Nitrates. Currently im acclimating a clown that yvr sold me. I want to start slowly adding some softies and zoos but want to know what are the safe params, and if this is too high how do I lower them. I plan to make a fuge in the middle compartment with some chaeto and a PC clip on. Any advice? Thanks
Are my water parameters safe?
- Thread starter JordanLee
- Start date
SaltyDr
New member
Need to know ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, temp and specific gravity. How long have you had the tank running, because even with a quick/short move there is going to be a cycle which might be over by now. May need to run some phosphate remover to get your PO4 down. Water changes will help too.
drummereef
Team RC
Here's the recommended levels for saltwater aquaria. 
Reef Aquarium Water Parameters
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.htm
I'd get test kits for...
Ammonia
Nitrite
Nitrate
Phosphate
Alkalinity
Calcium
Magnesium
Refractometer for salinity
Thermometer
pH test kit, pH meter would be more accurate.
And, a TDS meter for measuring total dissolved solids of your source water (RO)
Reef Aquarium Water Parameters
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.htm
I'd get test kits for...
Ammonia
Nitrite
Nitrate
Phosphate
Alkalinity
Calcium
Magnesium
Refractometer for salinity
Thermometer
pH test kit, pH meter would be more accurate.
And, a TDS meter for measuring total dissolved solids of your source water (RO)
marduc
New member
agreed on the aforementioned posts.. also take your time.. wait until your tank settles down and gets used to the clowns before adding anything else, you already mentioned slowly.. that is a good thing, very good.
Some softies actually do not mind slightly "dirty" water.. but still I would strive to have close to undectable amounts of nitrates/nitrites before adding.
again reiterating what has laready been asked.. how long has it been running, and do you have any issues with algea, diatoms or the like?? I think algea growth is a better tell tale of a tanks status than nitrate/nitrite/phosphate tests.. although those tests have their use and should be on hand.
ideally let the clown contribute his pollution to the tank, let the bacteria load get used to this for a few weeks, and test for your trates/trites (personally i feel phosphate tests are of very limited use.. cyanobacteria lets me know if its an issue.. even when the tests show 0). I would say below 10 on the nitrates.. lower the better, shooting for undetectable levels.
sounds like you have done a good deal of studying already.. a very good sign of successes to come.
Some softies actually do not mind slightly "dirty" water.. but still I would strive to have close to undectable amounts of nitrates/nitrites before adding.
again reiterating what has laready been asked.. how long has it been running, and do you have any issues with algea, diatoms or the like?? I think algea growth is a better tell tale of a tanks status than nitrate/nitrite/phosphate tests.. although those tests have their use and should be on hand.
ideally let the clown contribute his pollution to the tank, let the bacteria load get used to this for a few weeks, and test for your trates/trites (personally i feel phosphate tests are of very limited use.. cyanobacteria lets me know if its an issue.. even when the tests show 0). I would say below 10 on the nitrates.. lower the better, shooting for undetectable levels.
sounds like you have done a good deal of studying already.. a very good sign of successes to come.
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