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keith10

New member
LIke most people in this community I believe my canister filter is growing Phosphate and nitrate as a high level. I had just cleaned it 8 days ago. I keep threatening to yank the bio-balls out and replace it with live rock rubble. Or just leave it out and put more filter media. Also what is the best way to control the phosphates in a 37 gallon tank.

I feed one time a day. My light schedule is 60 minutes blue 8 hours full sum, 1 hour blue.

Like it or night, I have to stick with the canister filter. Can I have some feed back as to what the most effective way to used this filter would be. How often should I change the media and the other maintenance.

In my last tank from years ago I had a 90 gallon tand and 30 gallon sump.
 
Increase the live rock and maybe try NoPox. (SeaChem). Bioballs can't deal with waste the way rubble can. Definitely phase them out and the rubble in, gradually, during filter cleanouts.
 
LIke most people in this community I believe my canister filter is growing Phosphate and nitrate as a high level. I had just cleaned it 8 days ago.

I've read about the "nitrate factory" myself when I was contemplating my canister.

I use one on my QT.
I also clean it out every third day. Sometimes fifth if I'm traveling.

I use ceramic media that I have cycled in my sump for a few weeks. I have two sets of it to clean and switch between quarantines. I also use a sponge. That's it in the canister.

I've never seen high levels of anything (yet).

Even the youtube vids I've seen about canisters in saltwater recommend cleaning every other or third day. I would guess (and I'm no expert by far) that increasing your cleaning schedule and replacing the bioballs would help greatly.
 
QT tanks are different vs main DT as they usually have very low bioloads and water changes can fix most QT problems. Most people use canisters or hang on the back filters for QT tanks, with media of some sort since QT shouldn't have any substrate.
 
Consider replacing bioballs with several inch layer of sand and place the return pumps on a shelf several inches above that.
That, plus a chaeto farm made my tank super-stable with beautiful growth all around.
 
If you try to make a bio-filter out of the canister it will more then likely create a nitrate / phosphate issue if not setup properly. Your best bet is to use it as a media reactor. To take care of the nitrates you will definitely need to remove the bio-balls and add some LR in your display instead, ditch the rubble in the canister that's another nitrate problem waiting to happen. Bump up the flow in the display and this should be enough in any reef tank to keep your nitrates in check if you are feeding and stocked properly.

Your canister filter will now be a media reactor! First things first use a good phosphate media to take care of that issue. I would also recommend using carbon as it is very effective at polishing water and removing toxins. This is what I would use if I wanted the lease maintenance and not run into any issues with it becoming a nitrate factory. IF you want to used it as a way to EXPORT nutrients and I say export because you have too small of a space to create a efficient bio filter to process nutrients compared to your display tank sand and LR, you can use filter floss or sponge filters to polish of water and trap detritus that will also help reduce nitrates. The only thing is if you go this route you will need to replace the floss or sponge on a very strict routine to make sure it does not start to decompose and then create the same problem you are now having with the bio balls. I would leave it there 1 or 2 days max depending on how fast it traps debris. Toss it in the trash and used new floss every time and this will export unwanted nutrients your bio filter wont have to process.

I ran a canister for a long time on my first reef tank and it is possible to use it effectively. I learned this and many other things the hard way so hopefully this will help you control your nutrient issue and enjoy your tank !

Happy reefing :beachbum:
 
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