Ask your chiller related issues here
- Thread starter ihavtats29
- Start date
Hopefully someone can help me out....
I have an old model JBJ dbm-250 chiller and recently it started leaking from the plastic cap that hold the temp sensor in the heat exchange chamber.
I have exchanged emails and phone calls with JBJ, but they do not make this model any longer, so no help there. One of their guys suggested marine epoxy, but I'm not there yet.
I am hoping someone in this forum might know where I can get a replacement cap.
I have an old model JBJ dbm-250 chiller and recently it started leaking from the plastic cap that hold the temp sensor in the heat exchange chamber.
I have exchanged emails and phone calls with JBJ, but they do not make this model any longer, so no help there. One of their guys suggested marine epoxy, but I'm not there yet.
I am hoping someone in this forum might know where I can get a replacement cap.
I have an Aqua Euro 1/4HP for my Reefer 350 ( about 95 gallons total). I have it set to cool the tank from 81 to 79 degrees. It takes about 40-50 mins to take the water down 2 degrees. The apartment temperature is about 80 degrees. Does that seem normal for it to take that long to cool the water down 2 degrees?
I did some quick math and found that in an ideal situation where you chiller performed like it should, 1/4 HP (870 Watts of cooling effect) it would take about 30 minutes to cool the water 2 degrees if there was not heat input to the tank. So that's the theoretical minimum time. So 40-50 minutes seems reasonable. You could try wenting the room better, if the chiller doesn't get enough fresh air.
I'm not quite sure how norskfist figured the load on your chiller? Not saying it's wrong by any means as iam not an engineer. When we figure commercial chillers you have to know dt (temperature drop across across the chiller) and flow rate to come up with the btus necessary to cool the load. That compressor should be about 3000btus and according to the aqua euro site should run for 15 to 20 mins an hour if sized properly. Your total gallons to cool is on the low side for that chiller. I would think it wouldnt have much of a problem cooling that load down, maybe almost to fast. If you know your dt and flow rate you can use a formula to see if your close to your input btus. Not sure what the formula is off the top of my head. Have you cleaned the condenser lately? Backflushed the chiller heat exchanger? as they can get calcium build up.
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knap_123
Member
My sealine chiller so-300a want work correctly. I can set it to 70° . The display board will say something different. I assume it starts off at the water temp. It's definitely higher at around 79. So it will kick in and start chilling. The water temp will drop to around 50° and the display board will climb to around a 100° . I unplugged it from here. Now I no my pumps undersized. It's 211GPS and the chiller is rated for 264-660gph. I was just testing it. And I've tested it with a bucket, and on my 56 gallon tank. It definitely cools. Just not ideally .
knap_123
Member
OK, got my DIY temp control built. And it works perfectly! But when I plug to chiller, the chillers display jumps up and down on temp. And will eventually kick on. And stay till the water drops to set temp on DIY thermostat. Then it will kick off. But it won't come back on when temp rises like it should. I know this sounds complicated.haha should I disconnect board on chiller? And run the compressor to my DIY thermostat?
I would not rely on that bad temp probe or display (whichever is going bad) to always read high and turn on the chiller. If one of those parts is going bad, it could fail completely and not turn the chiller on at all. Wouldn't be a big deal if you're there to catch it but if your not, that could be a different story.
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I would try figuring out what component is going bad and replace it. If it's not fesible to do that, I would wire out the chiller controller. Run it through a set of contacts on your temp controller and if you can, program in a time delay of 1 to 2 minutes to keep the compressor from short cycling. If you can't program that in, you can wire in a simple adjustable time delay.
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looking for obj 1/4 info as my compressor and fan won't cycle although the light blinks... This posting was best I found regarding what I suspect to be the relay on the control module... Given one of the two exhibited the behavior.... going to order the module. Having said as for the temps dropping to low I know this is a year later but if no one said to check the in vs out flow it makes a difference as if the lines are reversed the temp sensor will now register the cooled water vs non cooled water... Hope 125 well spent on the module (figured it was time for some posts on this great thread.. Thanks all and creator. I should note searching for the compressor checkout procedures didn't result in a find so if someone may link test procedures again thanks.
Airwalk1616
New member
Chiller WONT STOP chilling.
Chiller WONT STOP chilling.
Man I've looked just about everywhere, Allen just about everywhere, and to no avail. I really hope I can find some help HERE.
I own a 1/10hp eco plus water chiller. The model before they were assembled in China. Made in 12/12. Anyways, i thought I had fixed the problem as it wasn't working for quite a good while here recently AFTER this problem had persisted, but NOW its doing it again.
So basically, I can set my temp for 68,69,70 whatever I feel like having it at, and when I come back after a few hours, it's down to 63 & would go lower if I left it alone. It's so strange because the machine REGISTERS the cooler temps right on the front of the lCD. It's saying 62, I press set, and it's set at 70. How is this possible? ESPECIALLY since it seems to have fixed itself a while back. The "œchiller" light turns off and the "œexternal heater" light stays on, with the fan blowing as it's lowering in temps. When it's workin correctly, it will completely shut off (besides the LCD display of course) once it's hit the target temperature. I really hope somebody knows a thing or two about this. please oh please, help me.:headwallblue::headwallblue::headwallblue:
Chiller WONT STOP chilling.
Man I've looked just about everywhere, Allen just about everywhere, and to no avail. I really hope I can find some help HERE.
I own a 1/10hp eco plus water chiller. The model before they were assembled in China. Made in 12/12. Anyways, i thought I had fixed the problem as it wasn't working for quite a good while here recently AFTER this problem had persisted, but NOW its doing it again.
So basically, I can set my temp for 68,69,70 whatever I feel like having it at, and when I come back after a few hours, it's down to 63 & would go lower if I left it alone. It's so strange because the machine REGISTERS the cooler temps right on the front of the lCD. It's saying 62, I press set, and it's set at 70. How is this possible? ESPECIALLY since it seems to have fixed itself a while back. The "œchiller" light turns off and the "œexternal heater" light stays on, with the fan blowing as it's lowering in temps. When it's workin correctly, it will completely shut off (besides the LCD display of course) once it's hit the target temperature. I really hope somebody knows a thing or two about this. please oh please, help me.:headwallblue::headwallblue::headwallblue:
Airwalk1616
New member
So what am I needing to replace? A relay?
Airwalk1616
New member
I've got pics of all the inside's of the chiller just dont kknow how to post pics here.
Airwalk1616
New member
Basically here is what is happening. When I plug it in if my water temperature is higher than the set it will automatically turn on with the chiller light flashing like it should when it is chilling. If I turned it on and the set temp is higher than the actual temp then the power light just stays on until it hits that higher temperature and the external heater light turns on solidly. From that point the water temperature will continue to drop and drop until I unplug it. I'm also using an exterior temperature probe for backup and the temperatures are always the same on the LCD screen and my probe. So basically once my temperature has rise past my set temperature I'm plugging it back in to start that chilling light up to see if maybe it would turn off like it's supposed to but it's just not. I need to know how the voltage flows through this controller so I know at which point this contact would be giving me problems. Do you know how the electricity flows from the wall through the controller and where I could find this? Is it the little black box or the copper thing wrapped in yellow? Where is it one of those little cylinders that soldered on to the PCB? I'm not afraid to solder things if needed I just need to know what part to fix.
