Ask your chiller related issues here

HI, I bought a Pacific Coast CL650 Chiller last winter from another reefer. I turned it on today, the fuse keep blew once the compressor on. I'm using Eheim1262 to feed the chiller.
I open the chiller apart, the condenser is very clean. Everything look very clean. When I turn on the chiller i notice the fan not on so I hard wired the fan to make sure the fan is on all the time. And the fuse still blew once the compressor on.
Can you help me to debug the issue?
Thanks for your help.
 
Hi, I just bought a Pacific Coast 1/10th chiller for my 28 gallon with 20 long sump. On the site it says this chiller needs a flow in the range of 500-800 gph but my overflow can only handle 300 gph. My question is how should I plumb the chiller to my system? Thank you
 
Thank you for such a great thread! Been on it for over 2 hours putting it all in perspective. Haven't found exactly what I'm look for so"¦

Coralife Aqua-Chill 1/6hp. Been hardly used and in storage. Displays the E1 code and does not run. Haven't confirmed the exact temp probe but looks exactly like"¦

http://www.aquariumpart.com/Current_USA_Chiller_Temperature_Probe_2841_p/rcu02841.htm

I can try to replace the probe, or I can use my Reefkeeper to control the chiller (which I would do anyways). My question is, would/does the compressor and fan circuit run on 120v? If so I assume that I can bypass the chillers internal control unit and hard wire the compressor/fan circuit directly after the fuse. Yes?

Again my thanks for your assistance, dedication, and this thread!

Respectfully,
DiverDave

I'm curious if you've made any progress with this yet? I just encountered the same "E1" error on my AquaEuro chiller.
 
Need some help here also

Need some help here also

I have a old bay tech 1/4 hp drop-in chiller. it uses a Tecumseh compressor that seems to be working. The fan works, the evaporator fins are clear and clean, the temp comptroller tuns the unit on but there is no cooling.
I have the cover off and can not find any signs of oil or leakage.
Is there a over-load/re-set buttopn?
I spoke with on of the techs at Tecumseh they said the compressor used R-12.
Is there a problem evacuating the system and switching over to R-134?
What should I do??
Thanks for any information
 
I have 150 GAL display tank and 40 gal sump. My question is about the settings for the heater, and chiller, and controller.

the heater is a 300 watt Eheim heater with a 1 degree cut in, and 1 degree cut out of the target. ie if target is set to 79f then the heater cuts on at 78, and cuts out at 80f.

I have a 1/4 hp JBJ Artica chiller that also has a 1 degree cut in, and 1 degree cut out of the target.

I also have a Reefkeeper elite controller that I can set the temperature and the hysteresis, which is the cut in and cut out range.

I am sure this is pretty typical to have the 3 pieces of equipment. I do want to try and set them up so that if I loose the controller for whatever reason or if it fails, then the internal triggers on each component will come into play and avoid a crash of the whole system.

also I want to have these settings so that if the controller again crashes of fails, when the internal triggers come into play that they don't fight each other by both being on at the same time.

what is everybody else doing?
 
old bay tech chiller

old bay tech chiller

Just picked up a old bay tech chiller (for free) the other day and was wondering if anyone had any information on it.
The unit is a 1/4 hp with drop-in probe and titanium tip.
The unit seems to function but it does not get very cold. The compressor and fan are running but the temp at the tip does not get very cold. (*it does get noticeably cold though) The flexible rubber line seems to get colder than the tip.
The compressor says R-409A on but when I called Temsecuh (the compressor manufacturer) they said it should have R-12 in it.
Is there anything on the market now that will make this chiller work up to it's 1/4 hp rating? Should I toss it?
Does anyone know of a good HVAC tech in the San Fran Bay area who can take a look at it for me??
Thanks
 
Resun CL280

Resun CL280

Hi I bought a Resun CL280 1/10 chiller and set everything up and started running the chiller but I set the temperature to 79 degrees F but the chiller went past 79degrees without shutting of I would like to know if this is a faulty part problem or a setting issue... thanks
 
Hi I bought a Resun CL280 1/10 chiller and set everything up and started running the chiller but I set the temperature to 79 degrees F but the chiller went past 79degrees without shutting of I would like to know if this is a faulty part problem or a setting issue... thanks

How far past 79 did it go? Are you basing this 79* on your tank temp monitor or the display on the chiller? It's very common for the chiller temp probe and a regular tank temp monitor like a controller to have a slightly different reading. Also, some chillers will go past the set temp by a degree or two and only turn on when the temp reaches the set temp. As such, your chiller could be operating normally. I'd let it run and keep an eye on the temps. It will likely shut off at 77 or 78* and then turn back on at 79.
 
How far past 79 did it go? Are you basing this 79* on your tank temp monitor or the display on the chiller? It's very common for the chiller temp probe and a regular tank temp monitor like a controller to have a slightly different reading. Also, some chillers will go past the set temp by a degree or two and only turn on when the temp reaches the set temp. As such, your chiller could be operating normally. I'd let it run and keep an eye on the temps. It will likely shut off at 77 or 78* and then turn back on at 79.

hi the chiller went donw to 76 degrees I got worried and turned it off... and started my research and calling people to see if somebody knows what is wrong... the tank thermometer said 78 when the chiller said 76 I really don't understand you think it could be a bad thermostat?
 
hi the chiller went donw to 76 degrees I got worried and turned it off... and started my research and calling people to see if somebody knows what is wrong... the tank thermometer said 78 when the chiller said 76 I really don't understand you think it could be a bad thermostat?

It's very common for the thermostat in the chiller to not match the external thermometer. There is an option in the chiller controller to adjust the chillers temperature to match your external temp gauge/controller. I would suggest adjusting the chiller temp to match your probe and then allow the chiller to run. See part 4 of page 3 for instructions on how to adjust the chiller temp reading to match your temp probe. My guess is that it is functioning properly.
Here are the instructions in case you don't have them handy.
resun1_zps5a1ca547.jpg


resun2_zpse2501558.jpg


resun3_zps9397f9ed.jpg
 
Hi, im currently on the planning stages for a 400g build. Since I live in the caribbean a chiller is a necesity. Dont want to have the condensing unit close to the tank blowing hot air at it, so I decided to go w a separate condenser and heat exchanger. What do you recommend, were can I find a good heat exchanger, reef safe. Thanks.

PS. Temperatures here range from high 70's low 80's at winter to high 90's at summer
 
noisy compressor change??

noisy compressor change??

Hi I have an old chiller that was given to me by a friend and the compressor is pretty noisey at start up. I'm pretty sure it has been alterated, it has no cover, the compressor is 1HP old type compressor rectangular tall ones and the evap. does look original but I dont know who makes these. It's a U type evaporater with 1 inch in and out water ports. If I change the compressor does there have to be a certain relation between evap size as to compressor HP?
 
I am a Hvac/r service tech with 13 years in the business, for the last 3 years ive been repairing chillers for the local reefing comunity , if your having and issues with your chiller i will be glad to help ,

jim

How do i clean out the chamber the water goes through on a JBJ 1/3 hp chiller? because my intake hose doesn't have any brown algae but my output hose has significant brown algae how do i completely clean out the water cooling chamber?
 
Hi, I was wondering if I have a chiller 1/3hp compressor if I put a 1hp will it work better or is there a relation between hp to evaperrator (or is it a different name)?
 
Chiller: JBJ 1/10HP
Chiller cycles three times daily (during light cycle): Comes on for an hour and off for two, I confirmed this with the Apex.

I purchased this new and have been using it for about 4-5 months now. Tonight, my lights cut out early and was a little concerned. Checked the temp and it had hit my temp threshold (83*) light cutoff on my Apex controller.

Unplugged the chiller and plugged it back in. "Cool" light blinked for two minutes and then went to solid green to indicate the compressor had started. Unfortunately, the compressor is not starting. No hot air coming out of the back of the unit. The compressor fan does function correctly. The chillers temp probe is also accurate to my Apex.

The small room is ventilated well, I have a window fan that I use 24/7 with one fan that blows in air from outside and the other venting air out.

Any ideas? I did the "static" test to no avail. Thanks for the help!
 
Hi, I'm down to my last option here.

I have a 1 HP Hamilton Aqua Euro Chiller that stopped chilling yesterday. The internal fan and electronics all work fine, but the exhaust is not hot air, and it operates very quietly now, as if the compressor isn't clicking on or something.

I'm interested in a couple of things. 1, a diagnosis of the potential problem. 2, a suggestion for how to get it solved as soon as humanly possible. I live in NYC in case you have a contact up north that is relevant.

Thanks, I hope to hear from someone with a suggestion soon.

John
 
Hi, I'm down to my last option here.

I have a 1 HP Hamilton Aqua Euro Chiller that stopped chilling yesterday. The internal fan and electronics all work fine, but the exhaust is not hot air, and it operates very quietly now, as if the compressor isn't clicking on or something.

I'm interested in a couple of things. 1, a diagnosis of the potential problem. 2, a suggestion for how to get it solved as soon as humanly possible. I live in NYC in case you have a contact up north that is relevant.

Thanks, I hope to hear from someone with a suggestion soon.

John


Put a fork in this thread.

I would contact the chiller manufacturer directly.

-Mark
 
For my new fermenting setup I need a 1/4 hp chiller that is capable of a setpoint of 33-34 deg F. Most of my research so far has shown that aquarium chillers do not go down that low.

Ideally I am looking for a chiller that requires external control. I already have a controller that is capable of programming fermentation schedules. But what I really need is that it is capable of going down to 33-34 deg F. even if it has a controller. I will need to control heat separately with the external controller so I do not need an integrated heater.

I don't want to use a large refrigerator as I am looking for precise control of fermentation temperatures and the fermenter I am looking at has a jacket around it to pump water through. The system will have 12 gal in the fermenter, 3 gal in the jacket, and I figure a max of 10 gal in the resevoir so I am looking at 25 gal. Glycol chillers require external inline heating and from what I have seen there are not reliable solutions for that, but I am open to suggestions.

Do any of you have any recommendations to help a home brewer out?

Thanks,

Jeff
 
Hello, I have a jbj chiller that the display just stopped working. I changed the fuse and also tried a new wall socket with no resolve. Please help with any info. Much appreciated.
 
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